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Published: July 20th 2015
Down in The Latin Quarter
Lots of cheap food, and fast.Saturday brought the Ackmans into town, better late than never. After Wendy had a quick shower we four headed out for walks in the center of the city, Ile de la Cite and Ile St. Louis. Wendy and I partook of a little retail therapy, some of which we had been looking forward to since last year, while Kevin took off to meet a friend and Ed was left holding the bags...(heh,heh...). We met up with Kevin and Fred about 5:30 for drinks, then a quick dinner in Ptomaine Alley (if you have been to Paris, you know where we are). This is an area near the Sorbonne, which has really cheap food but generally flavourless. No one I know has actually gotten sick from eating in any of the myriad establishments. But it must be seen. Imagine row upon row, street upon street, of strip joints with all the barkers outside trying to entice you in. Kevin got swayed by the free wine...Wendy was beat with jet lag, and Ed was coming down with a cold...uh oh.....here we go again.... Sunday we got up bright and early to get on the train to Versailles. Fred, Kevin's friend, was joining us
Fred, our Lifesaver
He was so helpful! And fun! Thanks for ALL your help Fred! at 11:00 am to view the gardens before our PRIVATE tour of some of the rooms the public (or the "Hoi-polloi", as my mother called them), didn't get to see. This actually was one of the main reasons for us all getting together here on this trip. Wendy and I pledged last year after that debacle that the only way we were going to do it was with a private guide. Work had started on booking the tour in October and, if it hadn't been for Fred, who lives in France and was joining us, it could have turned in to a bit of a debacle as well, due to misunderstandings and lack of clarity, I think. Perhaps I am being too polite, but all got sorted and for 1-1/2 hours the five of us climbed up and down back stairs to rooms where Marie Antoinette almost got stabbed in her bed, to where Louis XV slept with Mme du Barry. It was awesome! What a change from the huge public rooms to the small, intimate private apartments of Marie Antoinette and her family, and those of Mme du Barry. AND, we went to see the fountain that was the
The Gruesome Foursome
The outtake is available upon request prominent feature in "A Little Chaos", about the building of Versailles and its gardens, which came out this year. The fountain, called the Ballroom, was absolutely breath-taking, and I couldn't begin to explain its beauty. I have not spent much time in the gardens, except to get from point A to B in the grounds, so exploring was fun. All in all, it was a wonderful experience, and one that I will treasure for many reasons. We left Fred to continue his wanderings, since he had not been there since a child and had full visitation to the chateau on his ticket. We said adieu and hurried back to the city to change for dinner, another redux from last year. After changing into nicer clothes, we took off to Brasserie du Louvre, in the Hotel du Louvre, across the street from....(you guessed it...) the Louvre. Again Wendy and I went there last year via a Groupon that Kevin had picked up for us, and she had to again have the best steak in France. I have to agree with her. It was Chariolet beef, from the Limosin, world-famous, and beautifully tender. Aside from being just a bit under-cooked for my
Another treasure
We were steered to this fountain as well as the Bosque. taste, it was wonderful and Kevin loved his bite as well. He had veal kidneys and Ed had a lamb stew which, unfortunately because of his cold, he couldn't really appreciate but said what he could taste was heavenly. For starters Kevin and I had the two types of foie gras on the menu while Wendy had green and white asparagus. Ed partook of what he said French onion soup should taste like. For dessert Wendy and Kevin had various ice creams while I had an Ile Flottante. Ed did not partake so we knew he was down for the count. Tuesday was our next big day - Bastille Day, or, as the French call it, La Fete. We were up bright and early to go see the military parade, but Wendy and I decided to do it the right way this year. We found ourselves in the Georges V cafe, a little pricey but on the Champs Elysées and with very large TV screens. Kevin took off to take pictures while the three of us sat drinking coffees and clever cocktails. At long last Kevin returned after the parade passed him by, and we finished watching the arrival to
The Masses
Looking from Marie Antoinette's corridor leading from her private apartments to her state bedroom. Place de la Concorde and having lunch. After a nap and early dinner at the apartment - how is it that cold chicken can look so clever in France? - we took off to the Eiffel Tower for the fireworks. After about 1/2 hour Ed needed to go home so he and Wendy took off. The fireworks were superb, and it is very stirring to hear the playing of the Marseillaise, but the fireworks weren't as good as last year ( ok, so I'm starting to sound a little jaded.....?). When it was over, though there weren't as many people, they seemed to all be heading to the Metro station we wanted, and Kevin and I opted for walking back to the apartment. 1-1/2 hours later we rolled in, at 1 am. Wednesday brought a miraculous recovery by Ed since we were going to our favourite restaurant, L'Ebauchoir, over near the Bastille. Wendy and I picked up an exhibit of the Tudors from the London National Art Gallery, and then a little retail therapy before lunch. There was foie gras and gazpacho, followed by stuff tomato or eggplant with lamb and chèvre en croute. Of course, dessert was our perennial
Marie Anoinette's Bath
Only a small part. You can see the tub outline on the floor. favourite, their rice pudding. We waddled back to the apartment, and the Ackmans packed while we relapsed. We said adieu to them at 8:30am the next morning, already looking forward to the next adventure, and hoping Ed won't have a cold. And, by the way, thanks, Ed, for passing it on.?
(apologies in advance for all the pix. I promise the next blog won't be so bad.)
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Sue
non-member comment
look at the guy watching from the other side - he must have and interesting view of antipodeans