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Europe » France » Île-de-France » Paris
July 31st 2015
Published: August 1st 2015
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Ann and DaveAnn and DaveAnn and Dave

Having lunch in front of Reims Cathedral.
Wendy and Ed left, and Ann and Dave arrived. Friday morning we were up bright and early to catch the train to Reims, the capital of Champagne, for a tour of Veuve Clicquot, to learn everything there was to know about the methode champenoise of winemaking. Truly fascinating. La Veuve Clicquot was an innovator in the business, but it was a result of her wonderful sales rep, who set up export to Russia and England. There is a good biography about her, http://www.amazon.com/Widow-Clicquot-Story-Champagne-Empire/dp/0061288586/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1437896870&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=Veuve+Clicqout, that I recommend.

We also wandered around a bit and had a look in the cathedral, where all the kings of France were crowned, starting with Clovis' baptism. All in all a good day. If you get the opportunity to take tours of distilleries anywhere I suggest you do...

The next morning Ann and I were off to learn how to make croissants and other wonderful pastries at La Cuisine Paris, a place that specialises in English-speaking culinary classes and tours. There is a lot of work that goes into making a croissant, and at the end of it all, I was wondering if I would continue on. But then I got lured by the prospect
Veuve ClicqoutVeuve ClicqoutVeuve Clicqout

So many bottles, so little time....
of 10 % off at e. delherin so had to go and buy a couple of things. We had a wonderful teacher, Guillaume, who had worked in San Francisco for three years at a restaurant at the corner of Polk and Green. I can't remember the name. All in all, it was good fun, and a must-do if you are so inclined. Bookings required in advance....http://lacuisineparis.com.

We met up with the boys and headed off to Marche au puce at Clignancourt for a little shopping then headed home to get ready for dinner at L'Ebauchoir that evening. Kevin and I had been once before for dinner, and preferred lunches, but we were very pleased with the results this night. I got so carried away that I forgot to write what we ate, but suffice it to say we were not disappointed. The advantage of going for dinner is that, if you order their signature dessert rice pudding, it is on an "all you can eat" basis. But we stopped at one tureen...

Ann and Dave left next next day, and that evening Kevin and I ventured out to a soirée at a man's house. So, here's the deal...he
Croissant classCroissant classCroissant class

The final output with Guillaume, our chef/teacher.
holds dinners every Sunday, charges €30 per person in cash, BYOB, about 50 people come every week. There are mainly English-speaking people, and it is a wonderful way to meet other travellers. We met a couple from Canada on their honeymoon, and a 22-year old dancer from New Zealand. She had been working on Princess cruises out of LA for 3 years, and was taking a year off, to live in Paris. Outstanding! Though the food was very average, you didn't go for the food...you went for the experience. The host, Jim Haynes, held court in his kitchen...it was great. (http://www.jim-haynes.com/)

Monday was Vincennes, a medieval castle and fortress. It is only 1/2 hour out of town, so we hopped on the metro and were there in no time. As the chateau/fortress is an active military post, housing the historical documents, only the tower was open, but it was well appointed, with good English tour information. Vincennes is also famous for the forest where both the treaty for World War 1 and the French surrender to Hitler was signed, but we didn't get there.

Tuesday...the time for us leaving is getting closer and I am getting sad...we went
The Somme Australian MonumentThe Somme Australian MonumentThe Somme Australian Monument

At the site of the battle of Pozieres, where the Aussies stopped the Germans.
on walk-about again, this time ending up at the Pantheon which we had never been in. It holds the crypts of many sons and daughters of France from Voltaire to the Curies to several Resistance members. It was very moving, and the statuary was exquisite.

Wednesday was one of the big days for me on this trip - our day-trip and tour of the Somme valley, where many of the battles were fought by the English, New Zealanders and Australians. We saw the Aussie war memorial (Poziers) on the site of the battle they fought holding back the Germans, we saw a school they built after the war (also in Poziers), we saw one of the 17 craters created by simultaneous explosions the first day of the battle (Lochnager), and we saw the battlefield/memorial to the Newfoundland regiment that got wiped out (800 members) in 40 minutes (Beaumont-Hamel). This field was left totally unimproved, and still has trenches visible. When looking at the field you can feel the futility of this battle, and this war.



Friday, after many unsuccessful attempts, we finally made it to the Cluny museum of Middle Ages, famous for housing the Lady
A German WW 1 CemeteryA German WW 1 CemeteryA German WW 1 Cemetery

Notice the contrast in markers: black iron vs white marble, stark, four names to a cross...The others are for the Jewish army members. They fought in WW 1.
and the Unicorn tapestries. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Lady_and_the_Unicorn. This museum is a treasure, one totally unexpected, and well worth a visit. I was blown away by the colours found in the Unicorn tapestries and all the other tapestries that were on display. Unfortunately, my camera wasn't up to the challenge of taking good pictures, as flash wasn't allowed. If you get (back) to Paris, put this museum on your "to see" list. That night Kevin wanted to play with his new tripod so off we went to Pont Neuf at sunset. He got a couple of fun pictures and I enjoyed the fact that it was cooler...



Saturday was more shopping, and wandering around st. Germain, which is a very nice area on the left bank. We went to Les Deux Magots for lunch, to say we had been. Now it was time to pack, and get ready to say "au revoir" to our apartment for the last month and Paris. We are on to Bordeaux to spend a week with our friends, Francoise and Raymond Blet!


Additional photos below
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Flanders poppiesFlanders poppies
Flanders poppies

Growing wild everywhere in the Somme Valley
The Newfoundland MemorialThe Newfoundland Memorial
The Newfoundland Memorial

This is one of the trenches for this particular battle. Shortly after, the priest for the regiment, which was wiped out in the battle, bought up all the land and created the memorial, which is why all the trenches are all still extant.
Vincennes ChateauVincennes Chateau
Vincennes Chateau

This, and the Sainte Chapelle, were the only parts open to the public
Vincennes interiorVincennes interior
Vincennes interior

The vibrant colors after so many years is incredible.
Meringues!Meringues!
Meringues!

I get distracted every once in a while by colorful food. This was taken on the Left Bank, in our wanderings.
VoltaireVoltaire
Voltaire

This man and his writings could be held partially responsible for the Revolution in 1789
Our last night in ParisOur last night in Paris
Our last night in Paris

We had spotted this restaurant when over by the Pantheon. It was nice, and reasonable, and the owner's wife spoke English. And she was like your aunt.
Le Duex MagotsLe Duex Magots
Le Duex Magots

This building was originally a shop, called Les Deux Magots, perhaps specializing in Asian items. These statues are original to that shop.


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