Methuselah On The Move - Update 3 (Tashkent)

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Friday 30 Aug.

Just starting the second full day in Tashkent. Had breakfast and now waiting for three Kiwis to arrive and then we'll head off to the markets. As today is Friday I don't know what will or won't be open. Friday is the main prayer day in the Islamic week.

Yesterday spent most of the day out. Went to the Uzbekistan Museum of Railway Technology (also known as just The Railway Museum or Transportation Museum). Got there by using the subway. One of the doorman at the hotel wrote down the stations I had to go to and where I changed trains. Initially it was a bit confusing until I worked out that the three connecting stations have different names depending on which Line you are on (Red, Green and Blue).

The nearest Metro Station to the hotel is about 100 metres away - it is the interchange station for the Red and Green lines. On the Red Line the station is known as Amir Temur Hiobani and on the Green Line - Yunus Rajably. The station is near Amir Timur Maydoni (Park). This is more or less the centre of Tashkent. Most of the main streets radiate out from the Park. The park used to have hundreds of old plane trees. These were cut down without warning in 2010 for some unknown reason on the orders of the current president. Prior to the event the park was home to chess players, people strolling through the gardens, and families having picnics. Now it is an open space dominated by a stature of Amir Timur on his horse. If I can quote from the Lonely Planet Guide:

"With the chess players now gone, the statue of Timur on horseback cuts a lonely figure. A glance up at the statue reveals that the stallion has been divested of a certain reproductive appendage. Just who stole it is one of Tashkent's great mysteries. Fortunately the horse's formidable family jewels remain intact."

Travel by Metro in Tashkent is simple and cheap. A single ride, whether just one station or riding the whole system costs the same 800 Cyms (correct English spelling Soums) - about $0.60 Aust. The trains are old but move along at breakneck speeds. I had a thought during one of the rides - if the front carriage comes off the rails in the tunnel - the entire train would end up like a closed accordion. For those who would understand the carriages are reminiscent of Sydney's old "Sputnik" red rattlers, Adelaide's "Red Hens", Melbourne's blue Harris Cars, and Brisbane's silver loco hauled cars. The cars are air conditioned but this only seems to have effect if the quarter pane windows are opened. This causes a flow through effect. The cooling is dependent on the speed of the train.

The Railway Museum was well worth the visit. There is quite an extensive collection of locomotives (steam, diesel and electric), a limited collection of passenger carriages, and a reasonably good collection of maintenance/construction vehicles. Spent about two and a half hours walking around having a look. After the Museum I walked across the Street/Square to the main Tashkent Railway station. Quite an imposing building. You can't go in unless you by a ticket, and no photographs inside. This was the case at the Metro stations as well. Each Metro station has a theme in it's decoration (similar to Moscow) with extensive marble murals. One station - Kosmonavtiar (Cosmonaut) - is (yes you guessed it) dedicated to Early space explorers. I was aware that you couldn't take photos inside the stations - but at one I went to a quite part of the station, turned the flash off, set a high ISO and took a pic. Immediately after I took the pic I felt a tap on the shoulder and there was one of the local Constabulary wagging his finger at me and saying no photos. At least I got one reasonable pic.

After the Railway Station I went around the western side of the complex as I knew there was an elevated walkway across the tracks. Had luck as I was able to get numerous shots of the station and yards - without any hassles. OK I've now ticked the train box for Uzbekistan. After that i returned to the hotel, freshened up and went out to the Museum of the Armed Forces. Didn't get in as it was closing early for the day and wouldn't be open until 3 September. Wasn't going to argue with a police officer armed with a truncheon and pistol, nor a Uzbek soldier carrying a mattock handle (does that bring back memories Ray) - Joke Jo. Oh and no I wasn't allowed to take a photo of the building and memorial. I think Uzbek police say no to everything - probably the only word they know in English.

So back to the Hotel again, arriving at 20 minutes to Beer O'clock. Decided it must well and truly be past that time in Australia so had a couple of beers. The first was a local Uzbek brew and to tell the truth it was a really nice drop. The next one was a Russian Beer. I was trying to find a taste comparison, and it came to me - Fosters. A bit sweet for my liking. Later on I had a different local beer which wasn't as good as the first. Later on during dinner I shared a bottle of local wine - a 2009 Merlot. Good colour, good nose - first taste - a bit rough. Colin (one of the Kiwis) and myself decided it would probably improve somewhat with airing and we were right. It was a reasonably good wine - not a great wine. A lot better than Chinese Great Wall Wine, Vietnamese wine and Jordanian St George Reds.

We had dinner (four of us) at a local restaurant - all up including drinks, food and taxes it came to 451,000 Cyms (roughly $100). The food was great. I tried the local specialty - Plov. Plov is the national dish of Uzbekistan and is a sort of Pilaf made with mutton/lamb. They had boiled horse meat on the menu that I wouldn't have minded having a go at - one of the Kiwis, Kate, used to ride horses and objected. So I had the Plov instead. Anyway I wouldn't have wanted to get on the wrong side of Ro either.

Saturday 31 Aug

The tour starts today at 12:00. So a quiet morning. Yesterday after I met up with the Kiwis we headed by Metro to the Chorsu Bazaar. The three New Zealanders were actually glad that I suggested catching the Metro instead of a taxi. I don't think they are as adventuresome as me. They enjoyed the experience - especially seeing the stations.

The markets were well worth the visit. I spent longer there than the other three. I enjoy wandering around local markets/bazaars/souks as anyone who has traveled with me can attest. The range of goods on sale was staggering. The aromas in the spice section were something to experience. All the spices were laid out in large open bowls and seemed to be sold by the "shot" glass. Actually it's a bit larger than a shot glass. The meat market - not what I expected. There were individual store/stand holders selling their meat mostly beef and sheep. The sheep have two large fat sacs on their hind quarters above the tail. I watched one of the men cutting some up for a lady. It was pure 100% fat. There was no refrigeration, however the place was clean and there were no flies. The counters and benches were stainless steel.

The Kiwis bolted after about an hour and half, after briefly searching for clothing places. They left too early. Shortly after we parted I walked around a corner of the lane I was in and I was in the area they were searching for. Most of the clothing on sale were for women and included local and western clothes. Some of the more formal local outfits were amazing. I checked out 3 shops that sold men's clothing and was a bit sad that it was the start of the trip - there were a couple of items i wouldn't have minded buying. However I retrained myself - I'm still trying to find ways to make my bag a bit lighter.

After the markets I returned to the hotel for a bit of rest. Was there for 15 minutes and decided to go to Independence Square to see the Monument of the Crying Mother (the Uzbek WW2 memorial). Apparently 400,000 Uzbek men were killed during the war. Got to the park which is unfenced, and found that each footpath had a cop who said closed and crossed his arms in front of him (the standard Uzbek signal for closed). Couldn't understand why. I did find out later in the bar at the hotel - apparently they are getting ready for Independence Day celebrations. This morning at breakfast I was joined at my table by a group of Indians who work for a Fireworks Company. It looks like they are doing the fireworks on the big day.

During my travels today I did succeed in getting a couple of surreptitious shots inside one of the Metro Stations. This success was achieved in the Chorsu Metro near the Bazaar. It was one of the least crowded and least patrolled by the police. I set the camera setting before entering and just stood there and pointed the camera in the direction I wanted to photograph. Had a quiet dinner and a few drinks in the hotel and chatted to some other Aussies and some Belgians.

A couple of comments or observations about Tashkent. The place is very clean with very little rubbish and no graffiti - the last probably because of the huge Police presence. It is common to see groups of people, mostly women, raking lawns, wiping down marble walls, and sitting around chatting (instead of working). The underpasses for crossing major roads as well as servicing the Metro are cleaned at least once a day with a very strong petroleum smelling cleaning agent. The marble walls are also wiped down. Second, within the central part of the city where the major government and business facilities are the streets are broad and tree lined. There are a large number of parks and gardens spread through the area with ubiquitous fountains everywhere. The shaded parks and fountains have a cooling effect on the city during summer. Within the parks and tree lined boulevards it is quite comfortable despite the heat.

OK - Back again. It's late evening and the tour has begun. We fly out at Sparrow's for Urgench which is near the western end of Uzbekistan. The flight leaves at about 07:50 but we have to be there one and a half hours before departure. So u at 05:00, breakfast at 05:30 and on the bus at 06:00. Most of the Poms who joined us today are absolutely knackered due to lack of sleep so they were all off for an early night. So what has happened since the tour officially started?

After the briefing for the tour we left on a coach for a tour of the city. A few quandaries from the previous day were answered. That is, why Independence Park was closed etc. It all has to do with Independence Day which is tomorrow. Yesterday and today there have been ceremonies connected with the celebrations. This evening, whilst in the restaurant on the top floor of the hotel we were able to view the Indians fire work display. Quite miserable really - Canberra puts on a better show.

This afternoon we went on a three hour tour of the city. Our guide spoke with a deep Russian accent which I found annoying - I think it was the monotonous tone. During the tour we visited the Crying Mother Memorial in Independence Park. This is quite a moving memorial to the Uzbek fallen from WW2, or as the Russians call it - The Great Patriotic War. Included in the walk through Independence Park was the Uzbekistan Freedom Monument celebrating the separation of the country from the old USSR. We turned back at that point and returned to the bus. A bit disappointing really as there were some very interesting buildings further on including the Romanov Palace which now houses the Uzbek Parliament.

Also on the agenda was the 1966 Earthquake memorial, an old section of the city (disappointing - the best parts were over the other side of town at Chorsu near the Bazaar. W also visited the 16th Century Madrassa (Religious School) - the Kulkedash Madrassa. The building were magnificent and in very good condition despite their age. The complex is no longer a Madrassa or Mosque - it's now been turned into a cultural centre. The main aim of the centre is quite obviously to separate tourists from the dollars. In the case of our group - very unsuccessfully.

That's about all for this blog. Next one will start in Urgench/Kiva.

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Photos

Amir Timur Maydoni (Amir Timur Square)
The Amir astride his mutilated horse. Up till 2010 the park contained hundreds of old plane trees. The Hotel Uzbekistan is behind the Amir.

Railway Museum
A self portrait outside the Railway Museum - and yes that is a real locomotive despite it's size.

Railway Museum
Old Soviet Steam locomotive. The exhibits are freshly painted but otherwise in a poor state of preservation. Al valuable metals (brass, copper, etc) has been removed.

Railway Musem
Several steam locomotives on display within the museum. The museum itself is very neat and tidy, and very easy to get around.

Taskkent Metro
One of three illicit pics taken in the Metro. Photography is forbidden and very much enforced.

Chorsu Markets
One of the quieter areas - rice and lentil interspersed with some spices.

Chorsu Markets
One of the many spice stands. The aroma.........

Chorsu Markets
A section of the "Food Court". A pleasurable mix of smells - cooking meat, spices, and wood smoke. Tried the local bread (sort of like Turkish) and pastries. Tasty.

Uzbek War Memorial - Independance Park
The face of the crying mother. The memorial is dedicated to the 4000,000 Uzbek soldiers killed in WW2. Nearby are panels with all the names inscribed on brass tablets. There are two niches for each of the Uzbekistan provinces.

Comments

[Leanne and Graham]

Retirees in USA
Hey Charlie - loved the blog and related well to the fireworks are better in Canberra - we felt the same about the fireworks in Victoria Harbour. Have just about had enough of US and heading home on thurs. Watch out for a big blog entry coming your way soon. Travel safely. Ciao L & G

[Harry Angel]

Railway Museum?
Why didn't I think there would be a railway museum there. Great read Charlie, but where are you now? It's 7 September, we're just about to sit down and watch the elections!!!!