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This is our second entry around Salta, but this time we are venturing north for a loop of 500km following first the tracks of the "Train in the clouds", followed by the Grande Salinas, finishing by the amazing scenery of Purmacarca before heading back to Salta.
But first, while exploring the provinces of Salta and Jujuy, we stay a total of two nights in Salta. The city is pretty compact, there are two nice churches...on nice little museum with a child mummy sacrified by the incas...an actually pretty interesting exhibits, even for Leslie and Tiffany...and that's nearly it for Salta. We also found a great restaurant next door from the Sheraton for some serious milanesas and steak...
The area around Salta is basically boring, you need to hit at least 100km out of town to start to witness serious scenery...but when you hit the mountains, it's another story, the place is simply amazing! So rent a car, go on tours, hit the 4000 meters up...but don't stick to Salta itself.
We first followed the track of the Tren de los Nubles till San Antonio de los Corbes. The road is
around 170km, most of it properly paved. I'm not sure the train is still running, the LP says yes, but only on Saturday, and at 120usd per person...no way for three of us. The road is really good and follow the tracks...and what a drive. We went up to just over 4000 meters up...high...cold...and beautiful!
We did drive the 17km out of San Antonio to reach the famous bridge....64 meters up...built in the middle of nowhere...this is a pretty impressive sight..on of the "pics of Argentina tourism authority"...but obviously no train...we were a Tuesday!
San Antonio is one of these wild...high...dry place...the kind of place where I wouldn't really dream to live. We than hit back Routa 40....for 100km of "ripio" to reach Grande Salinas. Ok, I've done more than a 1000km on Routa 40 in Patagonia....it was mainly little and bigger stones down there...and we managed to keep the car safe.
Here, there are even less cars...and it's sand. With a small Clio...sand, is actually pretty similar to ice for me...well, it's actually worst...you go too slow, and you stay stuck...you go too fast...and read what has happened. I went
too slow at one point, and we did get stuck, but it was pretty easy to get out of it...than I decided not to be stuck...and right in the middle....I hit another patch of soft sand. It was not the first time, but this time, the back of the car went...in the wrong way...
The full car went left...than right...than left...than hit the right side of the track before stopping...we were safe...well....safe minus a properly destoyed tyre. I knew the worst thing to do was to break...so I didn't break, I let the speed pedal go....I knew also that ideally...in this ideal fast world, I should have use my stick to get down the gears and use my engine break....but I was not going to let the wheel off with any of my hands....
We say when your last moment is coming, you see your past...well, I guess I was too busy trying to keep the car in the track. I knew it was a slipt second before the car could have flipped over on his roof. Didn't have the time to be scare...it was better than rally driving...it was reality...and I had my
two kids with me...so being in the middle of nowhere...staying safe was the only concern.
I did spent a split second to have a look at Leslie sitting next to me. 12 years old...he knew what to do...didn't say a word, hold to the door, put himself as back in the seat as he could....Tiffany seemed to have had the same reaction, but I didn't look in my back during these 5 seconds.
The car stopped...and the tyre blew....well...could have been way worst. I did had to change a tyre 20 years ago during a student competition...which lead me to win a spot in a "Twingo rallye" in Tunisia...but that was it. So with Leslie, we put ourselves to good use and changed that tyre. It's actually seriously easy to do....now I had to drive 50 more kms on a track...making sure we didn't blow another tyre..that would have been a very bad idea! And yes, we made it to the Grande Salinas.
Note to anybody...always take a good insurance for your car rental...I had...excess was at 120usd, that tyre cost me only 60usd....but we will remember that few seconds for
a long while....no panic...staying safe...and even better than a video game....maybe...just maybe...all those evening driving karts in Shanghai did help that day....maybe...
So we reached the Grande Salinas. This place is way better than the salars of Chile....but I have to admit, it's far from being as impressive as Uyuni. I don't really care, Leslie and Tiffany have all the time to go to Bolivia as young adults. For now, we were going to have an hour of great fun in an amazing place...and whatever, there is nothing similar in Europe or in Asia....they simply loved the place.
Grande Salinas to Salta going via Purmacarca and Jujuy is around 250km. All of this is done on a proper road. The same night we were going to board on long distance bus to Mendoza....but I quickly found out that we were not only one tyre down, but also one of our front light was done...wasn't going to risk being late in Salta....or getting there after dark...
The drive around Purmacarca is pretty impressive too....we even stopped in the little village for few minutes. By the time you reach Jujuy, it's another boring
road all the way to Salta...who cares, we had an amazing day...full of amazing scenery...and a serious scary moment.
Next stop, after 18 hours on a bus to Mendoza...more wine coming...and more adventures...
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littlewing
Cindy
LUCKY!
Glad you didnt roll the car and all ended well :)