Pucon and Valparaiso

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Departed Argentina for the fourth and final time (just as well as passport rapidly filling with stamps !), crossing the Andes to the Chile lake district adventure town Pucon, overlooked by the imposing Volcano Villarrica. Hired a mountain bike for a hot and dusty 40 km to the Ojos de Caburgua waterfalls busy with Chilean families, scrambled across streams and ate a picnic in the shade. Followed the ride with a much-needed refreshing dip in the chilly lake with its black-sand beaches. Next day caught a bus out to Huerquehue national park for another steep hike past volcano viewpoints to hilltop lagunas, chatting to fellow Swiss and German travellers but unfortunately (?) just missing a giant tarantula photo opportunity. Final day at Pucon was spent lazing in nearby Las Pozones hot springs, before catching an overnight bus to Santiago (and temporarily losing passport !).

Arrived in the characterful port-city of Valparaiso, now slightly decayed and rundown after its gold-rush boom was abruptly halted by the Panama canal. Joined an informative walking tour, climbing the hills on worryingly rickety 19C funicular "ascensores" and finishing with a delicious Pisco Sour, and then for dinner sampled the local delicacy chorrillana - chips, onions, meat and cheese all piled on a plate. Following day visited the famous nobel-prize winning poet Pablo Neruda's La Sebastiana house, perched on one of the hills with stunning views over the bay, and filled with an eclectic mix of possessions including a fairground horse, stuffed bird and whisky stocked bar. Next a long day trip to La Campana national park was spent hiking in the footsteps of Darwin, climbing to a viewpoint and plaque commemorating his 1834 visit as part of his Beagle global circumnavigation (see link), and racing back down before the rangers locked the gates...

http://darwinbeagle.blogspot.com/2009/08/16th-august-1834.html

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Comments

[Blanka]

Graffiti
Hola Mr Stephen, how lovely to see all your updates. I very fondly remember the graffiti in Valparaiso - a lovely street art! Thank you for all lovely pics!

[Tim]

so much of your trip with us. The scenery looks amazing and it\'s a real privilege to be \"part\" of your journey.

[Graham]

Culpeo. a south american fox
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Culpeo