Languishing in Langkawi

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Just back from a trip island-hopping around the waters of the beautiful island of Langkawi. On the first island we walked up to the lake of the pregnant maiden! Later we watched sea eagles feeding. One desert island chosen for a swim was idyllic; white sand and clear turquoise waters. Unfortunately conservation hasn't yet reached parts of South East Asia and we were disappointed with the way that the visitors, mostly Malay left their refuse behind and, in spite of numerous posters, insisted on feeding the indigenous monkeys. Several monkeys had been damaged by drinks cans. However the island of Langkawi where we are staying is one of the most relaxing and beautiful spots we have visited in Malaysia. The private resorts look amazing but are not on this trip for the likes of us!

At the end of November we flew from Ho Chi Minh to Kuala Lumpur and have thoroughly enjoyed travelling up the peninsula. KL was huge, impressively modernised but with backwaters like Little India and Chinatown that haven't changed, and probably won't, for decades! The Petronas towers visit was both incredible yet, for me, scary! It has a sky walkway between the twin towers on the 42th floor that we crossed and then carried on up to the 82nd floor.

Malaysia is very different to Vietnam. Vietnamese people rise at dawn and retire at dusk whereas the malay follow western times. In Vietnam everyone sits outdoors, shopkeepers sit in the street and wait for you to go in before following. By 6 am all the street sellers and pavement cafes are ready to serve. The vietnamese are friendly, welcoming and in your face, particularly at stations and tourist spots. The malay being so multi-racial take you as they find you, are more reserved but often reward your smile with a big grin.

After two city breaks we were ready for a change and headed to the coast and the island of Pulau Pangkor. This was a huge culture shock particularly as the small beach of Teluk Nipah was wholly malay, and quite possibly wholly muslim judging by burkhas or headdresses worn by girls from the age of 7 or 8. This hotel had a pool so in deference I went down in a throw and was watched by the entire clientele. Later at dusk all the girls,boys and men went in all fully clothed. I realised on the beach that everyone does this and felt sorry when fully covered women came out of the sea with little children, and I thought how uncomfortable it must be wearing wet heavy garments from head to toe! The other shock was the dirth of proper restaurants. Don't even contemplate for a moment that I mean western food. No, we are fully converted to noodles for breakfast and eating traditional food wherever we are. But here after dark the beach road transforms into street cafes, some with tables and chairs, and mobile kitchens appear from nowhere. And they are heaving with extended families all tucking into goodness knows what!

From Pulau Pangkor we travelled to the Cameron Highlands via a large town called Ipoh. The hotel we hoped to stay in did not exist any longer, the one we found in the middle of chinatown cost ten pounds and it's best we draw a veil over that experience!! The Cameron Highlands on the other hand was very interesting. The centre of Tea production it is still influenced by colonial times and we were able to enjoy tea and scones a few times. It was cooler there so we enjoyed a few walking trails as well as visiting a tea- processing factory, flower markets, butterfly farm and waterfalls.

Iain had read an article about Penang so we added it to our itinerary and spent nearly 5 hours on a bus from Tanah Rata to Georgetown. The highest point on the island has a long funicular ride to the top. After a long walk we were caught in a tropical storm where lanes were instantly flooded and we resorted to buying an umbrella. There have been a few evening showers on this island and it has been used but we wonder how long we will hang onto it. Hopefully we won't need it in Thailand!

From Penang we travelled by ferry to Langkawi and are staying here for a week hoping to explore it in greater detail, chill out on the glorious white beaches,swim and get our laundry done. Females and sartorially educated males will already have asked how we can cope, or at least how I can cope with so few clothes and carrying it on my back. Well we have both coped really well using Jen's washing line! But accidents happen and several items are getting the worse for wear and I may just have to go shopping in Thailand! As for carrying the back pack it has got easier with practise. I will admit the first time I had to carry it across Nottingham I could hardly breathe and by the time we travelled by bus and train to Heathrow I was wondering how on earth I'd manage for 6 months.

We couldn't attach photos today as the internet cafe won't allow us to use external pens so we are saving this blog and will try again in Thailand. We hope life is good for you all and that you are enjoying the preparations for Christmas, particularly those like Michael coming home for Christmas or getting together in different places like our family who are celebrating this year at Kate's home. We would love to hear from you as it now is the seventh week and England is starting to seem a long way away, and despite our enjoyment we do miss you all!

Still can't download photos so we are posting this on the public site. Please tell friends to search travelblog.org for us.

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Comments

[Liz Spicer]

Kate Martyn Matt here
Hi. Kate Martyn and Matt are here.i am going to pick up Megan and Scott up soon and we all going to Kim and lees to wake up mollie. Hope u having. A wonderful time.love to you both. Xxxxx liz