Sucre One Month - Doctor's Orders

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My good friend Dr. Kathlyn Ignacio issued stern orders from 5000 miles away, get some rest and recuperate or else she would do something that I can't print. Rather than risk her wrath when I return to the States, Amei and I agreed it was time to pull off the road and decamp for a month in one place. Our choice was just right. Sucre is a wonderful relaxing college town filled with revolutionary history, white washed walls, indigenous markets, friendly folks, fine food, comfortable lodgings and a temperate climate. Its where Simon Bolivar declared independence from Spain and Che Guevara stayed nights at the Grand Hotel. Sucre is unlike a lot of Bolivia, with obvious wealth displayed throughout its colonial buildings, many churches and fine universities. Students are well dressed, hanging out nightly in the central plaza, flirting, smoking, conspicuously making out and showing off Nike shoes and the latest gringo fashion trends. Toyota Sequoias, new Nissans and other expensive SUV's cruise the streets, fancy restaurants are filled until early mornings and music, fireworks and noisy parades are almost a nightly occurrence. Wow, and I thought Bolivia was poor. Well it is, except here in Sucre the poor exist around the edges and down the lanes of a wonderful, thoroughly enjoyable Bolivian city.



We found our apartment in the Capital Plaza Hotel, located in the heart of Sucre affronting the main plaza. For $400, we got a two bedroom, one bath, stocked kitchen, living room, dining room residence replete with wifi, flat screen TV, maid service and secure premises. Unquestionably the perfect place to unwind, relax, eat home cooked meals, sleep in, and get to know one city in depth. No more long haul bus trips, searching for rooms on the road, eating in the streets and avoiding dodgy or nefarious characters. Ah, just what the Doctor ordered. And you know what, the prescription worked almost too well. Now, as I write our month is almost over. We are leaving for points south in two days so I'm urgently summarizing our past month here lest I forget what the hell we did for the past month.



One of the first spots to visit in Sucre is La Recoleta, a small plaza high above the city that affords sweeping vistas of Sucre and its surroundings. But unbeknown to many tourist is that above La Recoleta are stations of the cross leading to an even higher hill topped with a Sacred Heart Shrine. An hour of huffing and puffing brought us to Sacred Heart statue overlooking the valley below. We witnessed Indians praying, sprinkling alcohol as an offering to the Pachimama and burning incense around the shrine. We just happened to run into a family praying over their vehicle, odd but common. Placing small plastic bottles of alcohol in front of the car and green grasses under the wheels, the family offered what must have been motor vehicle prayers as burning coals whipped clouds of smoke around us all. This while the family took shots of aguardiente and smoked rolled leaves of coca, the raw ingredient of cocaine. With the smoking and drinking, I hoped their safe driving prayers were answered.



A month in one spot offers many advantages and benefits. Besides hitting all of the Lonely Planet recommended sites, Amei took Spanish lessons with Abi, a friendly female instructor who was instrumental in instilling in her basic Spanish comprehension. But more than language learning at $5 an hour, Abi offered us a look into common ordinary Bolivian life. She was kind enough in inviting us into her modest red brick home and cooking us a chicken, smothered in chile dinner. Meeting her father, playing board games with her young daughter Anita, and walking around her neighborhood afforded insights that will be ever etched in our memories. Also memorable, was that this past month Sucre celebrated the Feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe, its largest party of the year. On the final fiesta night, Abi invited her English speaking Bolivian friends over to our apartment whereby we hosted a pre-festival party. Finger foods and too many tequila shots later, we all wandered or more like wobbled around the parade route, enjoying the marching bands, professional grade fireworks and colorfully costumed parade dancers. A night I'm still trying to remember.



As we prepare to leave, I look back and marvel at some Sucre scenes. Some memories that linger include very young laborers carrying ladders throughout Sucre's cemetery. The children offer ladders for grieving relatives to reach those interned high up on mausoleums shelves. Or newlyweds exiting their wedding ceremonies while being bombarded not by rice but white confetti. Immediately afterwards, those that sold the confetti sweep up the street strewn confetti to resell to upcoming weddings. Recycling loving gestures. Riding Sucre's public busses is not only super cheap but a constant reminder of all things Japan. Most Sucre busses are used Japanese busses, still sporting Japanese advertisements, logos and lettering. And the beggars, strategically camped out in front of the better hotels and fancy restaurants with babes in arms or blind and deformed by disease. Whether one gives or not, your conscious cries out as to why one is born to relative wealth and others not. But in the end, what we really remember are Sucre smiles, politeness and a considerate community that only one can wish the best for. Next stop Salar de Uyuni.

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Comments

[Kathlyn]

On the Road Again!
It was great to hear that you got some R&R in Sucre. What a beautiful place to stay. Have a great time, I am so jealous!!! Stay safe!

[Amerasian]

Thanks
It was great to hear from you. We did get a lot of rest and are ready for the road again. Just pulled into a small border town in Chile and will head on over to Salta, Argentina tomorrow. Anyway, if you can escape at anytime, remember you are always welcome to rendezvous with us. Hope all is well with you and your family. Love always.