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Published: April 24th 2012
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A midnight ride on the comfortable air conditioned Mexican ADO bus service brought us down the Yucatan Coast to Belize City. Arriving at first sunlight, we witnessed the city awaken from an antique taxi to our $15 a night guesthouse. The proprietor welcomed us with smiles and small talk, explaining the building was built 200 years ago during English colonial times. In fact Belize was noted as a perfect pirate hang out, raiding Spanish galleons heavy with gold and silver. English pirating eventually led to an English colony which makes Belize one of the few English speaking countries in a predominately Spanish neighborhood. Venturing from our guesthouse, we walked a short distance to downtown Belize, a dilapidated, worn and weathered city that seemed struggling to survive. A bit intimidated by the begging and decrepit conditions, most tourist don't stop in Belize City, preferring prompt departures to the nearby islands called Cays. Amei and I wanted to give Belize City a chance, to learn something maybe a lot of other folks miss, and we were not disappointed. Buying a boxed meal and a couple of beers, Amei and I found a dock on the creek that splits the city in two. Facing
cool winds and a retiring sun, the city actually looked colorfully attractive. We were enjoying the food and view when a disheveled woman begged for US $10, a bit pricey for budget travelers that we are. Immediately after politely ignoring her request, a young boy tried his luck asking for a buck or two. Obviously to the locals we were an easy target, so we quickly finished our dinner and returned to the serenity of our hostel. At our guesthouse, while relaxing on the veranda we were in a much better position to enjoy the cities' comings and goings. And then the lockdown. The kind proprietor informed us that a kid had been killed by a stray bullet, that the police had asked all businesses to close on Saturday evening and that we should not go out into the town for fear of reprisals. Imagining marauding angry mobs bent on revenge, being lock-downed and locked in sounded pretty good. We chose caution, retired early and got a really good long nights sleep. The next day we followed in the footsteps of travelers before and escaped Belize City by water taxi for the forty-five minute ride out to Caye Caulker. Looking
back at our brief stay in Belize, I was a bit saddened for Belize City had potential. We had met a gracious teacher who walked us across town to a nice coffee shop, a security guard who invited us to fish at the river dock he guarded at night, and other courteous and polite citizens that we interacted with for directions and advice. Hopefully in the months or years to come, the next travelers will find a more welcoming, safe and secure city.
And then there is Caye Caulker. Warm emerald waters, endless swaying palms, budget hotels, upscale and low scale restaurants, and a nice Caribbean vibe of slow, salubrious salutations for all. "Hey Maan," this is the other side of Belize that is warm, welcoming and swimmingly seductive. Swimming is what we do a lot of now. So much so that Amei is now swimming on her own. A great feat for someone never taught to swim. We drink quarts of fresh squeezed orange juice $2.50, eat coconut bread and fresh fruits and really just relax, stroll sandy streets and stare a lot at seashores. We couldn't be happier. Whereas Belize City encourages fast exits, we're challenged on
when to leave this little bit of Caribbean paradise.
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Connie
non-member comment
This is my favorite photo so far. I love the colors