Days 5-6

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Day 5: Lake Tekapo

Lake Tekapo is a tiny village right on the lake shore and with only a handful of shops. We drove over six hours, so were very happy to come across a great pizza place - Pepe’s, recommended through Lonely Planet. An open fire added to the cosy atmosphere.

On waking up we marvelled at the fantastic view of the lake, with a beautiful blue colour and fog lying across the lake in feathery tendrils. There were only three or four other people in the whole place, which consists of caravan, camping, cabins, backpacker and motel accommodation - all just above the lake shore. We were glad the proprietor upgraded us to a motel unit although his only motive was to save us from the cold! We certainly noticed the freezing air, and frost still on the ground even at 10a.m.

We thought we would do the Mt. John walk, described as a walk through the larch forest to the alpine grass meadow at the top. It was to take about one hour. We started the walk to find we were on the horse track and had to ‘bush bash’ to the right one. Once on a clearly marked track we climbed and climbed and climbed some more. The track was steep, narrow and rocky (therefore slippery and on the dark side of the mountain). Needless to say I had to have numerous rests, but when an American tourist said we didn’t have far to go - I believed him! We finally reached the ‘alpine grass meadows’ to be greeted by the sun, and the most magnificent view: 360 degrees with snow-capped mountains, the blue lake below and the yellow of the larch forest all around us.

After all the effort and totally out of breath (me, not Andrew), we happened to notice that we weren’t alone at the top. There was an Observatory complex and a café, as well as a very cheery guide to show people around. We then noticed that there was in fact a road that led from our motel as well - not that we would have driven!! Just as I was imagining a hot cuppa, we found out that the café was not open - it will be, in two weeks. We were given a very individual tour over the Observatory by a uni student who spends all day at the top of the mountain. She described it as likely to get a little ‘chilly’ by 4pm when she went down the mountain. I would have used much stronger language. She showed us Venus through a huge telescope as well as Mt Cook through binoculars - a very long way away.

The descent was much quicker than the ascent and we were both ready for a little tour around Lake Tekapo. The Church of the Good Shepherd, situated on the lake shore was beautiful - only built in 1934-ish, but what a site.

All around the lake and so far on our journey has been a paradise for a geographer like me (or once was?) The volcanic scenery, the scree slopes, crater lakes and the amazing fold and volcanic mountains, overlaid in this region by alpine grasses - a living geography lesson.

Helen


Day 6: Lake Tekapo-Wanaka

Our first view yesterday of this glorious place took place an hour or so into the morning. Photography continued throughout the day until sunset as the colours gradually changed. Today, one of us was going to have to get up to catch Lake Tekapo at sunrise today, and I think it suited both of us for that person to be me. It was worth it. Mists rising off the lake added to the dawn palette.

Trying to keep this journal’s pictures to a manageable number has been a tough assignment. I hope the results do the place justice. If the photos seem to be landscapes and more landscapes at the moment, well… that reflects the impat they’ve had on us. One well-travelled diarist somewhere on the web described this as the most beautiful place in the world. Whether or not Lake Tekapo warrants that description, we certainly can’t name its superior.

The drive to Wanaka took us through more of the kind of mountainous terrain we drove through after Hanmer Springs, but rockier and barer. Plenty of snowcaps around us, and the occasional stretch of road where the shadows of adjacent mountains refrigerate the frost on the roadsides so that it lasts all day. Regrettably, the fog came and went, shrouding many of the mountains and slowing us on the ground at times.

Wanaka, like Lake Tekapo, lies at the southern end of a slender north-south lake rimmed by mountains. It’s rather more developed, and today its appearance was disadvantaged by the foggy and overcast conditions. When the motel proprietor asked where we’d come from and I waxed lyrical about it, she was loyally defensive about her town but conceded that it was a bit prone to greyness at this time of year.

It’s getting colder with each degree south, and the winter layers are being pulled out of the suitcase. Today’s walk along the lake shore only just kept us warm. And who times those walks for the brochures? Nathan Deakes? For the second day running - or not - we bustled along at a healthy pace and still found ourselves looking at the watch asking ‘are we there yet?’ Won’t get fooled again.

Andrew

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Photos

Lake Tekapo (1)
The view from our unit at dawn

Lake Tekapo (2)
Early on the walk up Mt. John

Lake Tekapo (3)
From the summit of Mt. John

Lake Tekapo (4)
Dawn, along the shore towards town

Lake Tekapo (5)
From the same spot as (4): detail on the right - shows off the 7x zoom on the Ricoh R4

Church of the Good Shepherd
At the southern end of the lake, near the town of Lake Tekapo

Lake Wanaka, evening
Note girl in striped jumper chasing after disobedient beagle.

Lake Wanaka, from walking track up west bank
Ducks are plentiful around this island.

Comments

[ALice]

Wanaka?
Is that pronounced the same as "that dog" next door? It certainly looks to be more serene than her! All is well here.