Nha Trang


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Asia » Vietnam » South Central Coast » Khanh Hoa » Nha Trang
December 10th 2010
Published: December 11th 2010
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Approaching Cham Towers
David here...

We set off from Dalat and got on the local bus to Nha Trang with no problems at all. The bus journey was a typical one for Asia. The video screen was down and we had to put up with a DVD of a live Vietnamese show, which seemed a bit like our Royal Variety performance, with singing, comedy and novelty acts (no one needs to play the mouth organ with their nose while eating a banana). The road conditions at times were extremely bad, with the road disappearing completely and the coach having to slog through wet mud for a while. At one point we didn't think we were going to make it, but we should have more faith in the local Vietnamese bus service as we arrived in Nha Trang early in the afternoon safe and sound.

The bus office was a little way out of town so they laid on mini vans to whisk us off to our chosen location. We asked to be taken to the road where the hotel we had picked out in advance was located. The rest of the people in the van just sat there waiting. The first stop
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Cham Towers
was a random hotel where the lady proprietor came out to sell us her hotel. No one budged so a second woman came out and quite aggressively stated that this was the centre and there was no where else to go and the driver doesn't know where we want to go, so we should all get out and go into their hotel. Everyone ignored her so the driver shut the door and asked us again where we wanted to go. This time everyone told him their preferred location. He drove round the corner and told everyone else that this was their hotel (it wasn't) and then he drove us to another hotel and told us this was ours. As we got out, it was clear that it wasn't the hotel we had asked for. The owner and driver came running round to the back of the van to try and grab our bags to take in however we were too quick and with a 'No Thanks' over our shoulder we found our own way, which was a 2 minute walk up the road. It was raining as we arrived so it was our first chance to use the in-built rain
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View from the tower area after a shower
covers in our packs, and they did the job brilliantly. We got to the An Hoi hotel, got shown to a reasonable room and settled in.

We then wandered round the town, to get a feel for the place. We did intend walking to the bus station to see if it was feasible to make our own way when we moved on in 2 days time however about half way there it became apparent that it would be too far to walk so booked tickets to Quy Nhon through the hotel. We spent some time walking round the town and along the beach front, stopping off at the Louisanne Brewhouse to sample there wares to see if they were good enough for a more lengthy stop that evening (They most definitely were). The beach front in Nha Trang is lovely with lots of greenery and sculptures dotted around and a path that leads from one and of the beach to the other. As we were there out of season, the sea was not it's usual Turquoise colour but brown due to the rain water that floods into it this time of year. The waves are also much to big
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Our delicious coffee and cakes at the Sheraton
for any swimming though we did see a few hardy souls giving it a go. That evening we decided to eat Indian at Omars restaurant on the beach front as we hadn't had it for ages (about a week) and then went back to the Brewhouse for some more beautiful beer. The place has a really nice atmosphere, with a live band playing and candle light from every table. The tables all surround a pool which is free to use, though they also had seats on the beach. The service is quick and friendly and while the beer is far more expensive than Vietnamese beer, the quality was just a cut above. We spent a good few hours here before making our way back to the hotel.

The next day we set off on a 5km walk to see some Cham towers just outside the city limits. The Champa people live in Central Vietnam and in parts of Cambodia and were at their height in the 9th century. They built many towers out of brick that paid tribute to many Hindu gods like Ganesh and Shiva as the first religion of the Champa people was forged from Hinduism. The
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They will try to sell you anything
towers themselves are an impressive site and are still used for worship today, though the Champa people are very much a minority in today's South East Asia, living in very small communities. The 4 towers were all filled with the smoke from incense burning and filled with tributes to the gods, like fruit and spirits. As we arrived, the heavens opened though we managed to shelter in the Museum on-site until it stopped.

We then did something that we very rarely do when travelling - we took a taxi back to town as it was still raining and we wanted to go to a Vegetarian restaurant that was recommended in the guidebooks for lunch. The taxi fare came to £2, which is much better value than the taxis in Nottingham. The restaurant was called An Lac and we were given a selection of Veggie food on a bed of rice as soon as we sat down. Spring rolls, Tofu and other Veggie delights that you couldn't actually believe were Veggie as they tasted of meat. The total cost of this feast with a bottle of water? 90p for the both of us, 45p each. We were so pleased. This budgeting lark is easy. We were so pleased with our frugalness that we decided to pop into the Sheraton Hotel for a coffee and cake. This set us back £8 - so much for easy budgeting. You also know you have become a true traveller when a trip to a luxurious toilet is a highlight of the day for you! The Sheraton 'restrooms' were beautiful. Lovely patterned tiles on the walls and floor, marble everywhere, piped music playing, clean western style bowls and individual little hand towels in a basket for you to dry your hands. When I came out Suzanne asked if it was worth going to the toilets and all I could do was nod my head and say 'yep!'. It was like the difference in toilets between the portaloos on the campsite and Pizza Hut at Reading festival. It's the little things that make all the difference.

The rest of the day was spent avoiding the rain in an internet cafe before heading out for some food that evening before our 06:00 am start and moving on to Quy Nhon.

We've spent a lot of time on our travels discussing some of the food and drink that we have enjoyed so far and the stuff that we will replicate when we get home. Coffee shakes and Noodle soup being 2 of my favourites. However in Vietnam I have finally tasted coffee heaven, and it seems so easy to replicate at home. Vietnamese coffee is not like the thin, watery stuff we are normally used to. It is thick and usually served with condensed milk, which gives the concoction a sweet chocolaty flavour which I adore. I'm finding coffee here to be an excellent substitute in cafes for beer, however they are normally the same cost and the coffee measures are much smaller. Trying to decide on taste or value is one of the many tough decisions we are having to make on a daily basis.

We have since learned that Ronan Keating was in Nha Trang at the same time as us. Typical of him though, he didn't look us up...B*&@#$d

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11th December 2010

Great blog to read! Glad you like the coffee as I do. Not sure if you know the brand of the coffee, but I guess it should be TRUNG NGUYEN coffee, which is now becoming a famous brand. You can find this coffee in the UK, either from Vietnamese/Chinese shops or from the website. But still, TRUNG NGUYEN has different varieties too. If you are still in Vietnam, I would ask exactly what type of coffee you had. BTW, I am a Vietnamese, who had lived in the UK for one year and love the UK so much. I can also make real spring rolls (with the ingredients easily found in the UK), which all of my friends (including British ones of course) loved. If you wish to know how, I am happy to share the protocols.

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