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Published: November 19th 2010
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Packed up the caravan in the rain, which isn't so great when unpacking wet canvas at the next stop but it means the annexe gets a bit of a washdown!
Drove first back to Hahndorf which while it may have lengthened our trip a bit it did actually put us in line with traveling on the M2 straight south afterwards. The reason for our little diversion was to visit the house and studio of Hans Heysen. Since Heysen's death in 1968, the house has been left pretty much as it was when he and his family were living there. The walls still hold his originals and the furniture, rugs, crockery and his paints and easel in the studio are all still set up as if the artist were still wandering the hills and expected to return soon. The eldest Heysen son inherited the farm, house and studio and once death duties were paid ( they had to sell off some their father's collection of Rembrandts to cover the tax) they have opened the house and studio to the public. No one lives at the house but certain parts are used by family members all year as a hills retreat from
hot Adelaide.
The garden is a typical artists palette which big colour and more garden beds than lawn sweeping across the front and sides of the house. The house has bay windows overlooking the gardens which at this time of year are just beautiful. Heysen is famous of course for his still life paintings as well and the house has been set up so that when you see the original, the family have cut the actual roses from the garden and placed them in a vase beside the painting.
When we visited Monet's garden in Giverny in 2008, we were really impressed but in all honesty, Hans Heysen's studio, house and garden are equally impressive. It is Australia's best kept secret and in dire need of an injection of funds to keep the house from falling in on itself. If you ever get the chance visit "The Cedars".
After a quick lunch in Hahndorf we headed for Mt Gambier. It is a pretty big drive 473 kms but we are back to the flat country so the 110km/hr straight roads are great. Traveled through Penola, where signs and banners proclaimed "this is where it all began" with
a joyful picture of Mary MacKillop.
The Coonawarra and Padthaway wine region are also on the road. The kids are beginning to wonder if all Australia is vines and wheat. The vineyards here are huge and as the area looks like a huge flood plain, the vines stretch as far as the eye can see. Gone are the quaint patchwork colours of the McLaren Vale. Passed all the big Coonawarra wineries and felt we couldn't possibly drag the kids to more try more wine!!!
Arrived in Mount Gambier at about 6pm where much to the annoyance of the kids who did a good attempt of "revolting" against their Dad, we all got the wet annexe out and set up camp. The kids chose this caravan park because they read it had a heated pool. Xavier thinks it was really warm because it wasn't as cold as the southern ocean. It is freezing but the kids can't keep out of the water no matter the temperature. Ian, in support, has said he would always do a 'tea bag' - in and out, but not me - no support from me I am afraid.
Today, 19th November, we have
Hans Heysen's Gums
View from the front of his studio explored a little of Mt Gambier. Mt Gambier, known as the 'Blue Lake City', is a modern town of about 23,000 people built on the side of an extinct volcano and amongst enormous craters. In the summer months the 'Blue Lake' turns the most amazing...... blue colour. Only lake in the world to do this. The theory is that a chemical reaction occurs as the top layer of the water warms - hence the colour change in summer. Throughout the rest of the year it is a steel grey colour. It is amazing, but the best time to see it is when it is really warm in March. We didn''t see it at its most royal bright blue but even today the colour is quite breathtaking.
There are quite a few 'sinkholes' around here which I have never really heard of before. Again these are craters which are so deep, with steep sheer sides and water at the base. There is a cave right behind the town hall in the centre of the CBD, which has been planted with gardens and at its base is water. In theory a diver could swim beneath the entire city. The Umpherston sinkhole
is also equally as fascinating. You walk down a circular stairway to reach the base which has been terraced into gardens. The walls are hung with ivy. The original owner made it into an oasis for his family and friends to visit. He even boated on the water. Today it is a really unusual place to visit. It is floodlit at night and they have even set up BBQs for visitors to use.
Unfortunately behind is a huge forestry plant which belches smoke and the odour of pine burning across the park.
We are off to "Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows" tonight as it opened on the 18th. We are heading to Apollo Bay tomorrow in Victoria.
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Cardie Boydell
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re wow
Hi Everyone, Its lovely to read up on what you all are doing. I have realised I am still pretty ignorant about australian history.!! Its inspired me to have a look after my studies!! Thanks for including me in the blog. Its great. love card