Advertisement
Published: October 19th 2010
Camino 2010
Route Details After much debate, and because we are making this years pilgrimage in the European Autumn/Winter (god help us) we have chosen the combination of walking the Camino Inglés to Santiago de Compostela and then keep working South via the Caminho Portugés.
This is on the assumption that we will be working towards the sun, and leaving the rain behind us. Well that’s the theory.
Total distance, El Ferrol to Lisboa = 740 kms
Having already completed the Camino Francés (from St Jean) and the Via de la Plata (from Seville) we are hoping this trip will be just as memorable. Going by the pilgrim numbers we are hoping that the crowds will have thinned despite it being a Holy Year, being winter and all. On this the bit we are praying to Jimmy for help, according to the weather oracles we expected rain and we were not disappointed.
We checked out this route after our last camino and can report that the custard pies in Portugal are very tasty and help re-establish pre-walking weight.
Please note that I have finally got around to updating this blog and adding the photos from this trip (still working on the
Portuguese way). You will also note that this time Scott get’s to stay behind and mind the dogs and the rest of the livestock. So it’s Hel and Fran go mad on the way!
El Camino Inglés The pilgrimage way to Compostela enjoyed widespread fame throughout medieval Europe. Land and sea alike were furrowed with routes rich in spirituality leading to Santiago de Compostela. The maritime routes drew pilgrims from Scandinavia, Flanders, England, Scotland and Ireland on their way to destinations such as Ribadeo, Viveiro, El Ferrol and A Coruña. Blessed by an exceptionally strategic location, the latter two coastal enclaves are the starting points for the two alternative itineraries that make up the English Way.
Source The Xacobeo guide to the Camino Inglés
There are a number of routes to of St. James, defined by the points of origin and the port chosen in that to land. It is for this reason that the English Pilgrim Way to Santiago de Compostela on its inland journey is shaped like the letter Y, crowned at its two points by the ports of Coruña and El Ferrol. Both itineraries meet at Hospital de Bruma (32 kms from A Coruña and 77 kms from El Ferrol) to become a single route to Santiago de Compostela.
Those who start from Coruña cover a shorter distance to Santiago but those who leave from El Ferrol qualify for a Compostela (in a Holy year this is a 100%!r(MISSING)ebate on purgatory - to the date it is issued, other years it is a 50%!d(MISSING)iscount). Nevertheless there are people who in their endeavour to search for the indulgence, and with
a bigger zeal for adventure, knowledge and fine foods, depart from El Ferrol and take in Coruña as well.
Throughout the route, the trusty yellow arrow and stone landmarks guide the weary pilgrim towards Santiago. The landmarks indicate the distance from Obradoiro Square, and the direction to follow (indicated by a tile with the traditional scallop shell). Galician landmarks indicate direction the opposite way to the rest of Spain e.g. scallop lines indicates to the point to follow.
Nowadays, the pilgrims who come by sea are only a nostalgic minority that tackles the route honouring other times. The reality of our present age offers the option of taking a plane to land at the airport of Coruña, from there, by bus, to the traditional ports of El Ferrol or Coruña to initiate the adventure.
There are two main starting points for the Camino Inglés
- The route from A Coruña to Santiago de Compostela is approx 86 kms in length and therefore those travelling this arm are not entitled to receive a Compostela.
- The route from El Ferrol is just over 115 kms.
Albergues on the Camino Inglés are problematic and not well placed
for walking. While a new alberugue has opened in the outskirts of Ferrol, the new Betanzos albergue was to have opened in June 2010 - but there has been no progress on this or the Siguero albergue.
Note some albergues don’t open until 4 or 5 pm and you may have to go into town and hunt down the hospitalero to open it up. Or wait.
Comments from fellow walkers indicated that staying in Puentedueme and Betanzos are the better alternatives then Neda and Miño the towns are lovely and much more interesting, and the rates are more reasonable. The distances work out better too. So this is the way we broke our trip.
El Ferrol to Pontedeume 27kms
9 November 2010 We nearly didn't get here at all, first the plane hit a major storm and threatened to land in Madrid, not A Coruna, but it got down bumpily in the end. Then the airpõrt bus was late, leaving a group of huddled from the storm waiting for it, when it finally did come it shut its doors and drove off leaving us all stranded, we got a cab and made it to
Ferrol.
The Tourist Office is on the first floor of a modern office block tucked into the left hand side of the Plaza España (if facing the direction of the port). They provide pilgrims with the basics including Credencial with Sello, Guide, Map and a Gallego phrasebook (perhaps too heavy to carry). It's closed when we are there.
The tidy but basic Albergue de Pereginos de Ferrol is 9kms out of the city centre on the camino. The CSJ guides include a variety of other hotel and hostal accommodation including contact details and addresses.
In our case Fran broke out the passport to luxury account (funds left in her UK account after her OE) and we pre-booked into the Parador de El Ferrol, Almirante Fernández Martin s/n. The parador is on the camino and is an old manor house and looks out over the port and Ria of Ferrol. According to its promotional material it:
Recreates an image with the essence of a Galician mansion possessing glazed galleries and a specific marine setting… interior decoration displays nautical elements, world maps, and navigational instruments. The main staircase has an ancient lamp taken from a boat and maritime motifs are abundant in the living room.
So we may arrive via plane and bus we won’t miss the link to the former pilgrims coming across by boat. As the CJS guide enthuses:
Imagine yourself getting off of the boat from England (well it is the English way)…pick a set of harbour steps and the route begins!
We leave the Port of El Ferrol passing the Tourist
Office, at the naval building in front of you and cross at the pedestrian crossing. On the waterfront a stone (front of the Farmacia) marks the start of the Camino Inglés. Through the arch into Calle de Carmen Cruxeiras, the first waymark on the wall on your right and we are off…
The map provided by the Tourist Office shows two routes, the first is to continue straight ahead on the Rúa Marques de Santa Cruz, the map following gives an overview of the route.
The formerly alternative costal route is now the main marked route, it is slightly longer the old route but much more scenic route is to follow the Avenida do Mar, the CJS guide covers this route. The day we do it the storm is still lashing the coast adding to the rain nicely... this all bodes well for what will be a 4 week walk!
When we eventually cross the bridge that takes you over the Ría Xubia into Neda, you have a choice either turn right and go uphill or continue to the junction marked Pontedeume. The albergue is some distance from Neda itself, there are 28 beds with parking for
bicycles. There is a dormitory and bathroom facilities for the disabled. Its the lonely building on the lawn on the other side of the bridge. As we aren't staying here we press on.
Continuing on the camino along the riverbank we pass a range of crazy paint colours on the local houses and end the day crossing the bridge into Pontedeume. This famous bridge at one time had 116 arches, with a chapel at arches 21 and 22. It was constructed by Fernán Perez de Andrade in 14th century, it cross the River Eume and enter Pontedeume 25 kms.
Yes, we are bridge nuts, get over it.
The Oficina de Turism has moved to a building by the bridge. The large tree next to the Andrade Tower, is a Pohutukawa! Interestingly there are a lot of Kiwi native plants on this route including a very large Cabbage Tree in the Ferrol Parador garden, in fact flax and cabbage trees are sprinkled liberally all the way to and through Portugal.
Okay, Hel's a plant nut too, sorry.
There is supposed to be a temporary albergue in Pontedeume but we can't find it so stay in a local hotel. Nothing is open, we are cold and wet but at least
we have a bed to sleep in.
Pontedeume to Betanzos 22 kms
10 November 2010 The following day we back track to the bridge and proceed up and up the Calle San Augustin. On the way you can detour to San Miguel de Breamo, as it's raining and the view is clouded in we just keep climbing up the road.
High above Pontedeume lies the solitary Romanesque 12th Century Church of San Miguel de Breamo. It is rarely open.
For a view of the bay of A Coruña (assuming it's not raining) go up the road for the first stretch up the steps through the trees to turn right onto the road and descend either by road or via forest route.
If you are staying at albergues then 27 kms form Neda is the next albergue in Miño past a block of flats named the Edificio Camino Inglés. Come out onto the main plaza and immediately opposite is a sign to the Albergue de Peregrinos 1 km with an arrow to the left. Pilgrims staying at the albergue retrace their steps to the point where the camino crosses the main road at the junction with the Rúa Pardiñeira and turn at the waymark sign. Others - simply cross the road
and go ahead slightly left - see the waymark on the wall.
The route passes through the abandoned country house of Barral, and comes to Caraña's place. The route takes us up to the cemetery, and the sanctuary of Nuestra Señora del Camino (also called Nuestra Señora de los Remedios). At the end of the wall at the church take left and then an immediate right following the waymarks. We pass a children’s play area on the left and continue downhill passing through O Barrall. Betanzos is finally comes into view.
We cross the old bridge into town around 2pm and enter Betanzos by the arch of Ponte Vella, a door of the medieval wall. Once in the old town at the García Hermanos's square (Hnos. García Naveira Square) wepass through the arch in front of us and make our way up to the rather plain main square with the Tourist Office on the right. It's closed for lunch and we have to wait till 5 for it to open to get a stamp and find out where the refuge is, it's in the sports hall apparently but we don't have the address.... turns out its the big
building on the other side of the river a few minutes walk away.
Highlights of Betanzos include the church of Santa Maria de Azougue, the 16th century the church of Santo Domingo, the convent of San Francisco, and the Ponte Vella das Cascas on the Mandeo. The Church of Santiago appears only to have a 1pm mass on Festivos but the Church of San Francisco easily found in the Old Town and served by Franciscan Nuns and Friars who are pilgrim friendly has a 6.30 pm Mass each day. Fran disturbs the Noonas at the Jimmies church who are fitting it out for mass.
Also of interest is the O Pasatempo. A sort of rural Spanish Victorian theme park erected in 1893 by a couple of local men who made their fortune in South America and came home to share the wealth and cultural excitement with the home town. It is built into a hillside, with mosaic grottoes a la Gaudi, a greenhouse of exotic plants, sculptures of wonders like airplanes, lions, pyramids, and a monumental relief map of the Panama Canal. It is still very well used and beloved of the townspeople, now incorporated into a park
with a topiary labyrinth and playgrounds. It’s wonderfully weird and old-fashioned, and it is free! Yes Franny - Free! However it was under repair during our visit. It is also close to the sports hall which is the local refuge,
The Tourist Office can provide maps of the city and a list of hotels and hostales near the centre. While waiting for it to open we had a very pleasant meal in a Galcian restaurant in town - Taberna Da Penela - Fran discovered Leche Fritters...
Betanzos to Bruma 29 kms
11 November 2010 In the morning we pack up early and leave the place tidy for the martial arts group that will come in soon to use the room. It's rained all night and it looks set to continue into the day. The storm is forecast to last at least a week.
There are sections of the stage today that some may find demanding, but there are opportunities to top up on water on the way but in very hot weather it may be advisable to carry more than usual. Not a problem for us, we have decided that carrying 3 liters
of water (our usual allowance) is not needed when it is raining so much, we are still probably carrying that level of water but instead of being in the camel we are wearing it in our sodden clothes.
We leave the main plaza of Betanzos by taking the Rúa de Rollo on the left of the far side of the plaza and stop at a bars here (they open from 7.30am) for breakfast before heading to the hills again. The worst hill was the one after the Casa Julia, so its a good idea to stop for a coffee and fuel to get you up and over.
It’s a mixed day with more road crossings and rural hikes before crossing into the the municipality of Mesía and arrived then to the kilometric point 42.702, place where joins the two alternatives of route from A Coruña (coming from the left) and El Ferrol meet and continue on to Bruma.
We follow along the track and the way marks, continue on downhill taking stepping stones over a small brook and continue straight ahead on the other side. After a small stream with stepping stones a sign saying 1 km
to the albergue. It's pouring and the whole track looks like a stream! We pass a hórreo at a house on the corner emerge into Hospital de Bruma.
Hospital de Bruma was an important junction of the two arms of the camino Inglés and has many interesting buildings still. The medieval former pilgrims hospital is now the albergue. The medieval church of San Lourenzo (normally closed) is at the far end of the village on the left. Part of the medieval hospice is incorporated in the farm cottage next door to the church.
On entering Bruma follow the waymark tile opposite to the left and walk down into the village. The albergue with 25 beds is at the bottom with a most helpful hospitalera live nearby in the village. For those who want to stay the night, that while the albergue is excellent there is no food or bar. There is however a beer dispenser and a very helpful hospitellier. We came in wet and cold, the showers were hot and the area up the stairs made a good drying spot for our washing. Downstairs our first fellow pilgrims (4 Spanish walkers) snored loudly.
If unlike us
you don't bring food, a further 2km or so along the main road brings you to the well signposted Inn Canaima Meson do Vento. However there is a small cooker and pots for cooking in the albergue. Often the hospitalero will drive pilgrims to a supermarket for provisions and there is also a delivery service to the albergue with Menu del Día, sandwiches etc delivered to the albergue from La Bar Ruta.
Hospital Bruma to Santiago de Compostela 42 km
12 November 2010 In the morning we get up in the gloom (despite it being around 8am) and toddle off stopping for coffee at the Bar Porto in Ardemil... it will be a fair wile yet before we actually get to Porto but its on the list for this trip.
There are at least four or five cafe-bars, two grocery stores, and two ATMs, a farmacia and the local parish church of St Andrew. on this leg of the trip, along with a weird harvest installation invulving witches, corn and tractors!
The route today is very straightforward and well waymarked. We follow the waymarks through the hamlets of Carreira, Mámoas and Carballeira and
the village of Buscas. It rains solidly all day. e managed to get lost coming into Sigüeiro (should be 25km) as the guide iand arrow are at odds and don't make it clear that you need togo around the pool, and there are now buildings on the waste ground. So we end up back trackign a way and drying out in the bar having a "navigation discussion" before we reach the modern Camino Inglés sculpture opposite the Centro Cultural to confirm we are back on the way.
We were going to do this in two days but as we got to Sigüeiro at noon we couldn't wait in the rain for the refuge to open at 5 we make the call to to pushed on the 17 kms to Santiago.
There is no albergue in Sigüeiro but you can stay at the local sports centre or polideportivo, it is close by the swimming pool you pass on your way into Sigüeiro - you go up out of the waste land to the left towards some flats and then turn left into a lane. Very basic apparently but don't ask us as we got lost around here!
On
Albergue
Hospital de Brumathe way out of Sigüeir we cross the bridge over the River Tambre follow the arrow waymarks in the rain for the rest of the day. We enter Santiago de Compostela at around 6pm in the dark and turn left and pass down into the Plaza Immaculada with the Catedral rising above you on the left, simple to get to right. Wrong, the dark and rain and silly bronze shells which are hard to spot make it hard going, the Catedral is also not to be seen and so we go in circles around it in the old town until we recognize a church (okay Bar) and find the way again.
We go ahead down the steps under the arch in front of you and reach the monumental Plaza del Obradoiro in Santiago de Compostela - Finally, and just as importantly as it is now pouring and pitch black the Parador!
Santiago de Compostela
Pilgrims arrive daily at the Catedral Square but their journey is not at an end, if they are anything like us, the first time we got there in 2004 we had a hell of a time finding out where the pilgrim
offices is that issues the Compostela. We had a melt down and the only scrap of the trip while trying to ask for directions as none of the guide books said anything about its location, there were no signs and none of the locals, shop keepers or tourist knew where it was. An eventual grid search turned it up - it’s behind the Catedral on the corner of the Rúa do Vila. Now days discrete etched glass signs help show the way, still lots of pilgrims miss it.
The Pilgrim Office is where you collect the Composetela or if you are pagans like us they you can stick out for a non-religious completion certificate. As Johnny Walker in his CJS guide explains:
It is just like Passport Control! There the Pilgrim Passport receives the final seal of the Catedral of Santiago. Those pilgrims who have walked at least the final 100 kms or traveled by bicycle at least the final 200 kms with a spiritual or religious motive will have their name written in Latin on the Compostela, the certificate attesting to their pilgrimage.
Fran gets the no religious certificate as her reason for the trip was given as:
My mother made me...
Other things on our to do list include:
* Standing on the final marker, scollop shell.
* Went to the catedral and check out the Masonic eye from that the Botafumeiro hangs, this is the world’s largest thurible weighing 80 kgs and is swung at the end of some of the pilgrim masses
when a team of eight tiraboleiros operate a huge medieval mechanism to swing the Botafumeiro the height and length of the transept. No swinging on Saturday!
* We don't get to Touch the Pillar depicting the Tree of Jesse or put our fingers into grooves marked by centuries of hands. This was closed for restoration in 2004 and still closed in 2008 when we last visited so this may be the year we get to do this! They walled this off in 2009 and have now permanently closed it!
* Stood in a very long line in the rain to visit Jimmy first his likeness in the back of the high altar and give him a hug / abrazo in gratitude for a journey well made. And a collect a sello from the priest that guards him. Hugged Jimmy, but sadly no priest no sello.
* Then descending to the silver tomb to gives thanks for all that has been encountered on the journey here, and yet to come. A quiet moment...
* Attend mass (briefly) and no the Catedral doesn’t crack when Hel crosses the doorstep. It is still standing...
We usual stay
in the discrete and excellent Hotel Rúa do Vilar that is located opposite the pilgrim office. However this time given it will be our fourth time in Santiago (Camino Francés Hel & Scott 2004, Camino Francés - Fran 2006, Via de la Plata - Hel & Scott 2008, Camino Ingelés / Portugés - Hel & Fran 2010) we have splashed out and booked into the Parador, we spent most of the night checking out the various rooms and gardens etc.
Yes I finally get to have dinner in the wine cellar!
Next - on to Portugal!
Advertisement
Tot: 0.195s; Tpl: 0.016s; cc: 14; qc: 43; dbt: 0.0515s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.3mb
Janet
non-member comment
Only just the beginning....
....and missing you already!