Arriving in Beijing - mile 12,133

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We're on the last 1000 miles with the bike, Beijing is almost in sight. However, the traffic is getting heavier and heavier - I thought they all rode bicycles here but that's obviously not true!! The biggest traffic jams are caused by the coal lorries queuing to get into the power stations, a 5-10 mile queue in each direction is not unusual. Most days we pass at least one coal fired power station. Weaving through one of these queues a local bike keeps pulling up alongside us so the pillion can hand over peaches and apples while we are still on the move - this could be a new Olympic sport: lorry weaving whilst transferring fruit between pillions, well OK maybe not the Olympics but certainly 'Its a Knock-out'.

At one point one of the group comes unstuck in the heavy traffic round a big city and clips the side of a car. We are the first to arrive at the scene and stop to provide moral support. This gives us an interesting insight into the Chinese legal system (and the inside of a police station!). Obviously some payment is required for damage caused to the car/occupant. We are put in one room and the car driver is put in another room then the police officers trundle between the two in an hour long bartering session; “he is asking for xxxUS$ to repair his car and sort out his injuries - what are you prepared to offer?” “the car only has a small scratch on the bumper and he only has a small scratch on his had we will only pay x/2 US$” etc. etc. etc until a sum is finally agreed upon, recorded on a legal document and signed by all. Impressively the local police managed to produce a Foreign Liaison Officer who spoke pretty good English.

With all the extra traffic and factories the pollution is much worse now. In the evening you think you've had a good wash but when you wipe your face, on the pristine white towel, the towel ends is black!! Its quite embarrassing. As well as the increase in traffic we have a big increase in temperature. This part of China is experiencing a heat wave and the temperatures are up above 40C, that's pretty hot. Too hot to ride along with you visor up and vents open, its like someone is blowing a hair drier in your face. The heat and humidity generate a few tropical downpours, its far to hot to put on waterproofs and its actually quite pleasant riding along in the cooling rain.

Overnighting in Louyang, Hadan and Baoding we are well off the main tourist trail so we are in hotels full of Chinese business men which means traditional Chinese breakfast. What constitutes a traditional Chinese breakfast - well picture a great Chinese meal; stir fried rice, sweet and sour pork, kung po chicken etc. et and that's what appears at the breakfast table. Somehow it doesn't seem as appetising at 07:30.

Our route takes us through what are probably some quite spectacular mountains but there's too much smog to see anything apart from a few hazy shapes. Not being allowed on the motorway we go through some small farming villages who have obviously just got the harvest in as its laid out across the roads for threshing and drying. We also get to experience some interesting diversions when the roads are blocked with mounds of rubble. Sometimes the local bikes just go up and over the mound and weave through the road works so we follow suit. Nobody seems to mind and a couple of times when we hesitate the workers wave us on through. Sometimes this approach is just not possible and even the local bikes give in but they don't follow the official diversion route they know little short cuts through the tiniest lanes and they are always very happy to have us follow them waiting for us to negotiate the various obstacles.

Finally, after 11983 miles we roll into Beijing and into the BMW dealers where they have laid on a reception committee for us including a crate of cold beer. There's food, drink, lots of local riders, TV crews and a stage for speeches end exchange of presents. The Polish Embassy send a delegation to congratulate our Polish rider and present him with a letter from the Ambassador. The US Embassy apologise for not being there to greet the American rider, they are at an official opening ceremony and invite us along the to party that evening. An the British Embassy - what do they do to welcome the 10 British riders? Send an e-mail saying check out the FCO website if you want to know anything about travel in China!!!!

After an evening of celebrating there's one last task to perform - we have to take the bike down to the docks in Tianjin (150 miles) so she can start her journey home. For once we get to go on the motorway; the brother of a local BMW owner operates the motorway toll booths and happily raises the barrier to let us on. Getting off is not quite so easy; we get past the barriers OK but there are lots of officials running round shouting. They really don't mind that we have been on the motorway what they are upset about is that we haven't paid and there isn't a listed charge for motorbikes so we have to enter into another bout of bartering over the toll charge. Once we've paid up and negotiated the last few miles of articulated lorries we leave the bikes lined up in a car park on the docks. Hopefully we'll see her again in 8 - 12 weeks time after her Ocean Voyage.

To return to Beijing we get to play on the super fast train that travels at 330km/hr (205 miles/hr!!!). Travelling so fast it doesn't take long to get back to Beijing.

So what now? - the bike has been dispatched for her journey home so its time for us to head back. Any sensible person would jump on a plane from Beijing to London but when have we ever been sensible? No - we got to Beijing overland without the help of a plane so we're going to get all the way back without a plane. Keep watching this space.

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Photos

in the depths of a traffic jam
caused by the continuous flow of lorries turning in and out of the power station

a tropical downpour
a refreshing change to the 40+ degree heat & humidity

grain threshing local style
spread the grain out on the road and let the wheels of passing vehicles do the work

this is more like it - this is how I imagined China
note all the smog in the background

finally we get onto a Chinese motorway
note the absence of tractors, lorries, tuk tuks, donkeys etc. etc.

the high speed train back to Beijing
the first of many trains we will take over the next month

Comments

[Tony]

Well done!
Congratulations! Where to next? I've been enjoying the blogs immensely and looking forward to reading about your next adventure.

[David Moody]

Jealous
What a wonderful adventure. Thanks for your delightful writing and photography. I wanted to be with you. Riding through a road tunnel as a detour. Great.

[anonymous]

Bravo well done we will keep watching! Xris & Dlle

[Clare Smith]

Congratulations guys!!
I have been following your trip with interest & envy. Your entries have remained so positive throughout the trip ... even though you've obviously had some patience tests en route!! So .... obviously the question is .... Where next??! If you're passing through KL be sure to pop in! x And BTW .... do you have some pictures of Chinese food which you have taken? If so, could I use some for a project I'm doing soon??

[David & Diana]

British Reception!
Congratulations Edwin & Lorraine on successfully achieving your transcontinental crossing and on an m/c.......... apologies for the pathetic reception from the British Government for your achievements! David & Di.