Finding beer in Brunei

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It deals in dollars, the majority of it's population speak English and it has one of the wealthiest rulers on earth. Yet not much is known about the Kingdom of Brunei, sandwiched between the states of Sarawak and Sabah in Malaysian Borneo. Perhaps this is because it is now one of the smallest countries on the planet despite it's empire having formerly included all of Borneo and Southwest Philippines.

The country is blessed with some of the biggest oil fields in the world and subsequently has been able to spare most of it's above ground resources. Brunei has some of the most intact primary rainforest, a rarity in Malaysia these days. The Sultan reigns supreme here, holding three key cabinet positions: prime minister, defence minister and finance minister. However, the people of Brunei also benefit from their country's wealth, receiving housing benefits and paying no income tax.

It would certainly prove to be an interesting place to spend a few days on route to Sabah.

Getting to Brunei via public transport would prove to be a tricky task. First we had to get from Niah Caves National Park to Miri, from there we could get a bus to the border and from the border a bus to Bandar Seri Bagawan (BSB), Brunei's capital city. However catching buses is never straight forward and so we ended up taking a string of three taxis to the capital for cheaper than the non-existent bus. We were travelling as a four with Ali & Caren and so shared taxis were the way to go.

We cruised into BSB in the blazing mid-afternoon heat. As well as being rich, Brunei was hot. A heady combination. Hotels are expensive in this country and so we found a youth hostel that was slightly cheaper. We were shown to our single sex dorms. Our first experience of the strict Islamic law that is imposed in Brunei.

Brunei is the most observant Islamic country in S.E. Asia. Strict dress codes are enforced, Melayu Islam Beraja (the national ideology that stresses Malay culture, Islam and monarchy) is a compulsory subject in schools, and to top it all off in 1991 the sale of alcohol was banned. It became mine and Ali's mission to find beer in Brunei but they seriously were selling no beer - we did try. This strict code of behaviour was not helped by the fact it was the month of Ramadan. The clean, spacious streets of BSB were eerily quiet, restaurants were shut and money changers closed. We were hungry, thirsty and moneyless in Brunei.

Despite the stringent laws and holy month the city felt relaxed, safe, and the people welcoming. It was not too long before we found an ATM willing to give us money and an empty Indian Restaurant to serve us food. With food in our stomachs we visited the focal point of BSB. The huge central mosque that overlooks it's people was a beautiful sight, sat beside the water that reflected it's grand shapes. Unfortunately, due to Ramadan, tourists were not allowed in.

The city seemed to ooze wealth. Ornate buildings, towering banks and snazzy shops, but no people. Was it because of Ramadan or did the majority of the population just not live in such an affluent area. We walked to the choppy river that slapped against the banks that cut through the city. An enterprising boatman was quick to offer us a trip around the Kampung Ayer (water village) that line the river. It was from here that we saw where the majority of BSB's Bruneians live. Their open smiles and happy demanour displayed a contented existence. As the sun set and the call to prayer beamed out from various mosques, the maze of stilted homes with it's waving residents had created a magical aura in this unexpected place.

As fast was broken by the nights shade and food stalls opened, the expected surge of people did not materialise. The streets were quiet, there was no city buzz and the only bright lights were those of the central mosque. BSB seemed to be a city set up for the people of business, but not for the business of people.

Up early the next day we went to a colourful riverside market where a range of people bartered their goods. Ali & Caren left for Sabah where they had a diving course booked and we sort refuge from the oppressive heat in the blissfully air-conditioned Sultan's Museum. The three floored building is a showcase to the Sultan's immense riches. Everything from a diamond encrusted miniature mosque to his gold plated chariot is displayed.

BSB was an interesting affair but we wanted to see some more of Brunei and so took a thrilling speedboat taxi up river to Bangar. The boat tilted around nipa-lined waterways at a hair raising rate of knots. As locals nonchalantly slept, we enjoyed the hour long ride through the beautiful inland rivers. It was worth going to Bangar just for the trip and best of all we had to come back the same way.

Bangar was a small town in which we found a nice little guesthouse run by a friendly English speaking owner. Each of his spacious rooms had four beds, two couches and a '50's style television. The decor would have looked outdated thirty years ago but it was great! We ate at the small market and took it easy in the guesthouse garden as we were serenaded by the mosque music of 'Allah Akbar'.

After one night it was time to move onto Kota Kinabalu, Sabah's capital, to meet Jenny. We returned on our thrilling speedboat to BSB and then took a long ferry to Pulau Labuan. We spent an evening here on the tax-free Malaysian island, where beer was openly available and remarkably cheap, before the onward ferry to Sabah.

We had really enjoyed our short time in this fascinating country. Brunei before we visited had conjured images of a rich man's playground. But Dubai it is not. Sure it has the money and the latest gadgets to match but this mix of Muslims, money and modernity is more down to earth. The people are charming, the landscape unique and beer is but a distant memory.

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Photos

The Kampung Ayer...
Outboard motors on the roof

Comments

[mum backhouse]

Hi darling, finally caught up on your blogs! I loved reading about your amazing time in China and the fantastic time you had with Mairi , William and Saskia. Hope you enjoyed GandT time as much as Chang time! It was great to be able to talk to you on monday and I hope you're settling into Australia ok now. Looking forward to the next entries and being able to talk again. Lots and lots of love from us all xxxxxxxxxxxx