Camping the National Parks of Sarawak

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The Batang Rejang is a huge river that sweeps into the interior of Malaysian Borneo. Living from, and along, this artery are the Iban people whose cultures and lifestyles are so different to ours. Their distinctive haircuts, over-stretched ear lopes, and tradition of living in longhouses, where a whole village sleeps under one roof, make them very interesting.

We travelled to Kapit along the chocolate coloured river, swollen with debris and surplus rains, in hope of being able to spend some time with this unique tribe of peoples by staying at a homestay.

The express boat ride was enjoyable and along the muddy banks amongst the mangroves we saw both modern and traditional stilted longhouses. There are both types obviously, a few remaining beautifully carved wooden structures and others newer, more practical, concrete designs. Trying to peer through the murky scratched windows at the scene passing by, I was distracted by the inboard tv blaring a crappy copy of the Karate Kid. I didn't realise then that this was the closest I would get to a longhouse!

The journey from Kuching, via Sibu had taken ten hours and we arrived into Kapit at 6pm hungry. At the small local night market of sate and roti chanai stalls, we were accosted by Joshua. He was our first 'guide' experience and wanted to organise an extortionately priced trip to a longhouse for us. We thanked him and went on our eating way.

We soon learnt that the longhouse experience had become a bit of a game, which was being seriously played. We stayed for a few days in this little town which would've been even more pleasant had it not been for the determination of the 'guides' we met to try to trick us or rip us off. Still we weren't the only ones in this situation who left without visiting a longhouse. Ali and Caren a friendly English couple had also rejected the false feel of the over touristed trips and we four travelled on to Bintulu together, and so began the camping.

We didn't stay long in Bintulu, a town seemingly full of hotels with no one to fill them, and took our tent for its first test in Similajau National Park. It was instantly better than Bako, no delinquent macaques, or day tripping tourists, just a deserted site with a sandy, shady spot to park beside the beach. Our 'taxi' driver Henry had warned that it would be really busy as it was the weekend but we were the only guests.

The trails were quiet around the jungle and although we walked for about 4km into the jungle we saw only lizards and butterflies. The beach seemed a more enticing route to take back, despite the lack of official path and the possibility that a crocodile infested estuary might block the way. The cooling breeze blew in off the sea as we picked our way across rocks, over tree branches, and around the sinking mud until we found our way back to the campsite.

It was a surprisingly successful nights sleep in the tent, no rain to stretch it's abilities yet, but it kept the bugs out and that's all one can ask!

We had eaten at the same canteen for our last three meals so when we returned from breakfast the following day to see a jovial group of BBQ'ers beside us we began to sniff about for an invite. It wasn't long before Sylvester on his loud-hailer came across and "on behalf of the committee" formally invited us to join their party.

These guys and their families all worked on contract with Petronas (the huge oil company here in Malaysia) and this was a team building and general day out for the workers. Philippino, Indonesian and Malaysians all speaking English as their common language. It started innocently enough with heaped plates of home prepared and freshly BBQ'd food and the usual "where you from?" run of questions. Before we knew it ice cold beers were being pressed into our hands and continued to be throughout the day! Fairly soon the main man announced that "Alistair, Lewis, Hannah and Caren" (he liked repeating our names) would be joining in with their games. With little choice in the matter we played games involving faces full of flour and straws and balloons, it was so funny to play these kids party games with a group of adults. Everyone was so friendly and the constant stream of Tiger beer and Tuak (rice wine) soon meant that the games took an alcoholic twist. Our new friends were as drunk as us and by the time the speeches and prize ceremonies (yes speeches and prizes) were finished there was talk of continuing the party in town. From here we were driven 40mins into Bintulu and descended into a raucous session of karaoke. It wasn't pretty as Ali's video of us singing 'Billie Jean' at the top of our voices cringingly showed. What a funny impromptu party with a genuinely friendly bunch of people. We collapsed in our tents exhausted and hoarse after all that fun.

The next morning we were not in a good way, Tuak gives one hell of a hangover. I was waiting outside the canteen at 8am desperate for some water to rehydrate myself. Some mee goreng sorted us out and soon we were on the road with Henry again back into Bintulu.

While in Bintulu, Caren and I attempted to learn the skill of stretching the roti chanai dough. It's a lot harder than it looks when the professionals do it I assure you. Caren and I were flinging dough all over the place and unsurprisingly our finished result lacked the crucial flaky lightness. I think it's one of those things you have to practice, a lot.

But there was no more time for bakery school, we were in the BBQ mode now. Before we set off for Niah Caves, the second stop on our tour of Sarawak's National Parks, we collected our own supplies. Fresher than fresh fish, prawns and mounds of inexpensive fruit, vegetables, and noodles from the central market. We even bought a grill and charcoal but the fire-lighters evaded us.

Niah Cave N. P. was again very quiet and we had the pick of the park, pitching our tents near to the BBQ pit but far enough away from the crocodiles in the river. Our BBQ was a great success, Ali and Lewi did a sterling job with the fire and Caren and I played ready steady cook with our ingredients. Ginger, garlic, lemongrass and chilli were our dominant flavours but the simple baked potatoes were also excellent. It was a lovely evening without a beer in sight, even if we could have stomached it the park canteen didn't sell any.

The Caves at Niah are full of swiftlets and their valuable nests, but that's not the reason for the fame of these caverns. The fact that they are gargantuan and contain original wall paintings and the remains of tiny boat shaped coffins from the paleolithic era is what has put them on the map. Furthermore in 1958, a discovery was made which confirmed Niah's place as a site of major archaeological significance. A team of archeologists unearthed a 40,000 year old skull which was dated as being the oldest modern human beings (homo-sapiens) discovered in S E Asia.

So, we were intrigued to see this site which had been inhabited by humans continuously for tens of thousands of years, but to get to the caves we first had to take the ferry across the river. The banks of this river were possibly only 4 meters apart, so narrow a bridge would easily have sufficed but we had to pay 1 ringgit for the privilege. It's interesting that in Malaysia there seems to be a habit of making a job where there doesn't necessarily warrant the need. However the fact that those people can be employed by our small contribution is no bad thing either.

The hours walk through the forest along boardwalks was very nice and the caves were definitely worth the effort. The entrance to the 'Great Cave' was colossal and at points on our wanderings inside it became so completely dark that we just prayed our torch batteries didn't run out! As we picked our way carefully along the wooden planks we hoped that the droppings from the many squeaking bats above didn't fall on our heads. It was a really cool walk and when we finally reached the 'Painted Cave' and stood before the wall of faded red brushstrokes I felt awed. To still be able to see, no matter how faintly, art from hundreds of thousands of years ago that expresses daily life of those beings, it's amazing. The skeletal remains and coffins were naturally deteriorated but still, when you learn facts such as: all females were buried facing into the cave and men facing out, it is fascinating experience.

With our brains full of cave men and archeology we walked back to our homely tents. A quick trip to the town meant our BBQ could be supplemented with beers tonight.

The cooking, frisbee playing (and ensuing "its stuck on the roof" drama) eating and general relaxation was a great way to finish the afternoon. We had really enjoyed our camping with Ali and Caren and the tent had done us proud, even withstanding it's first rain. We'd met such friendly people at the Petronas party, and seen some beautiful Bornean sights, although not much wildlife. Saying that...there were some friendly cats living at Niah Cave National Park who after playing frisbee with us decided to wee upon Ali and Caren's tent! Very comical indeed.

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