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Published: July 14th 2010
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Sorry to arrive quite late with our first South American entry....but we have been either running... or either without any connection the last few days. Our first flight was from Madrid to Caracas on Iberia. Let me tell you I was not really expecting anything good about Iberia...they have a terrible reputation, and we found it out right at check-in with a very non-smiling staff. But we did get lucky as Ma'ri and I both ended up upgraded at the gate...always nice, nice seat, even better wine....an easier way to survive nine hours on a a plane.
Caracas is not a safe place, and I was very aware of this prior to our visit. So no time to put ourselves in dangerous situation. We had a pick-up at the airport, arriving late afternoon to bring us to a hotel few minutes from the airport. Place is not nice, place is scary...place is expensive...but we couldn't fly the same day to Los Roques.
For your info, Venezuela is not cheap...but you can get it cheaper by changing your USD to the blackmarket and therefore reducing your costs...sad reality, we had to pay our hotels, flights ahead...in hard USD...so not much
saving on that way.
Our hotel was less than average, first meal below average...we can sum it up the following...to go to paradise...you have to cross hell first!
So time for paradise....early morning wake up, just around 12 hours after our arrival. We made our way to the Auxilar Airport...a smaller airport building just few minutes out of the main terminal. And yes, little plane..only two of us and our french pilot (he did confirmed to us the dangers of Caracas! Be warned!).
Caracas to Los Roques...private bi-propeller plane...this is set the tone for the exclusivity of the place, and we were on National Day! Didn't see Chavez though...and very happy of it!
7.30 am on the plane...10am diving...nice! The plan was 4 days, 3 nights on Grande Roque. Be warned, Grande Roque does not have any great beach, you just need to take a short boat ride to one of the tens of amazing beaches who lay the area.
The nice thing about diving...is that here...they have time to do it...no hurry...so stops all over the time to nice beaches all the time. We did 6 dives, leaving in the morning around 9am, coming
back each day around 2pm.
We stay at the Posada Gremary. They do not have hotels here, just B&B who provide breakfast and nice diner...most of the time involving fish. Be warned, nothing is cheap here...the only way to come here is by air, and it will cost you a whopping 200 to 250usd per person....if you are a family, you may even want to charter your own little plane....this is what most people do here.
Be also ready for a very boho paradise...this being Venezuala...most days were spent without any electricity on the island. They had been waiting for the boat bringing diesel from the continent to power the main generator....as we are 80 miles out of the continent. This was actually quite a charming situation. Local generators would work few hours per day....well...very few hours...just enough to provide some fans at time of sleeping, some light for diner...and basically this was it...but I had to forget about any internet connection most of the time...and for air-con...you may want to come back.
As everything has to come either by boat (food)...or by plane (people)...basic pastas for lunch are nearly more expensive than the local fish...so yes,
we did abuse of the local fish...these were so good!
The diving was impressive, some of the best I've seen in the Caribean! Lots and lots of soft corals, and obviously all the macro life which is coming with those. No sharks, no turtles...but few pelagics. Pics will speak for themselves.
These four days were amazing...diving in the morning...lunch and lounging in the afternoon....taking some quality time reading and enjoying sunsets. This is clearly a honeymoon place for those who want to enjoy! I think there are no place like these left in Asia, and may be not anywhere else. Los Roques are a true, exclusive boho paradise. The fact that it is is not easy to come here, neither cheap may keep the place as it is. But italians and brazilians do know the place, seems to be for the fishing. In terms of diving, I guess the islands did not welcome more than 6 divers per day...I know...nothing if you consider the quality of the diving! Oh yes, and they have these beautiful yachts and catamarans...sadly...just a tad above our budget...
So Wow...wow...wow....love this first stop...so romantic...so relaxing!
Our next entry is coming soon....this
time it will be about sightseeing, food, drinks....but more important...friends!
So enjoy life, because we do! Writting this relaxing at over 3000 meters altitude!
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vimal
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super
very nice