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The city is all white...
...yep, just white. Also, in the background is the world tallest unsupported flagpole in the world Travel woes followed us to Jordan as when we arrived in Amman we noticed that our bags were nowhere to be seen. After lodging a lost baggage file, we headed out into arrivals to find that the driver we had arranged with the hostel to pick us up was also nowhere to be seen. After a confusing call to the hostel we sat down and gave them a time limit, should no driver turn up we would just take a taxi. Feeling overwhelmed by bad luck and despairing over our baggage we sat down and simply waited. This was our first taste of Jordan and the arrivals hall at the international airport wasn't such a bad introduction. The first thing that struck me was the greetings. Three kisses on each cheek was the norm, as well as enthusiastic bear hugs and chatting intimately while holding each other affectionately.....did I mention this was just the men? Women were also affectionate but more reservedly so.
As always happens, just as we were about to call it quits the driver turned up. Driving through Amman we were immediately struck by the general 'look' of the place. Here's the thing: every building is box-shaped
Roman Amphitheater
Still beautifully preserved and only just down the road from our hostel and white....or off-white, bone, ivory, light beige....you get the picture. Nick and I were seriously wondering if it's illegal to paint your house anything but the above three shades. As we all know, white (or any other variation thereof) looks great but is a pain to keep clean, and most Jordanians don't choose to bother, giving the effect of a slightly white, kind of dirty city that doesn't look too flash close up but from a distance is shimmering!
Arriving at our hostel we were greeted out on the street by Nijmah, the muslim women who owns and runs the hostel. Nijmah, we have since learned, is a perfect example of Jordanian hospitality. Upon learning that our bags were lost she assured us all would be taken care of by her staff and should we need anything at all just to ask; further announcing “You don't worry, I am your Mother now” with a big smile. It was just what we needed after spending 32 hours in the Doha transit lounge and arriving bag-less. Phoebe was shuffled behind the reception desk and given a snack and a drink, plus lot's of cooing and attention. In the days to come
At the old citadel in Amman
In front of the Temple of Hercules. This place has centuries of settlements in the one spot, starting from the Neolithic Age! she was made “the boss” and would spend much of her time in the hostel behind the big desk in the office commanding the attention (and adoration) of all the hostel staff.
The warm welcome was extended to the streets of Amman, as a casual stroll always results in cries of “Welcome to Jordan”. Never before had we been made to feel so accepted as visitors. We were surprised to learn that the population of Amman is about 85% Palestinian, as refugees filed in after the 1948 Israeli declaration of independence and subsequent wars and were granted Jordanian citizenship. This had led to a remarkably diverse looking bunch of people. While most have still kept their more Arabic black hair, plenty have blue or green eyes, a combination which comes across as incredibly striking. Some also have bushy blond hair.
The first thing I knew about Jordan was the existence of Queen Rania. This is because at home we had the utterly ridiculous book 'Our Dumb World: The Onion's Atlas of Planet Earth', a good read if at times a little disturbing. The only thing worth noting about Jordan was apparently Queen Rania...stating “For many years of regional
Fragments of the Dead Sea Scrolls
on display at the Archaeological Museum in the citadel conflicts to a recent shortage of natural resources, Jordan has had a long and troubled history. On the bright side, however, King Abdullah II made a very wise choice when he married Queen Rania”, even though “she is completely out of his league.” The writers of 'Our Dumb World' one day hope to see a flag featuring Rania’s bust surrounded by hearts. But to give the Queen some well deserved credit, she has been a major champion in the areas of education and community development at home, and has emerged as a modern global leader promoting cross-cultural and inter-faith dialogue...she even has a facebook fan page http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/QueenRania?ref=ts, a blog, and controversially will not wear a Hijab, the muslim women's headscarf. So, hands up who's not in love with Queen Rania yet?
We were excited to be visiting such a progressive and emerging country and our introduction to Jordan was the friendliest we'd received yet. Soon we would be off to our next destination, our first of many 'must see' destinations, Petra!
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birgit
non-member comment
we love your big smiles and the introduction-what a good choice you have made.when i mentioned to lukas that i would be truely ready-theoretically- for some proper travelling again he gave me the looks and put his foot down.not before next year.what a shame!