Jaisalmer

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Mark's tour guiding was taking us to Jaisalmer. As the arrangements brought themselves together in the couple of weeks prior to having the opportunity to make the visit, I was invited to stay with Lucky (Laxmanji) who found me through Couchsurfing. He became the first of many of the inspirational characters we had the pleasure of meeting, who call Jaisalmer home.

We rolled into town in perfect time for the Gangaur festival. This is an annual event, with great significance for the women of Rajasthan and an 18 day fast (Indian style where eating occurs only in the evening) commences. Goddess Gauri (Shiva's consort) is worshiped. Their union is said to symbolise saubhagya (marital bliss). Unmarried girls pray for a good spouse while the married women pray for long life and the good health of their husband. A festival Mark was happy to be part of. The women were certainly dressed in their most spectacular Saris and jewelery. The Turbans were also all of the fancy variety and the band (complete with tali tapping) lifted everyone's spirits a little higher.

Lauraji and I fell in love with the young boy so immersed in the rhythm of the beat from our vantage point at the Australian cafe. We were there following the recommendation of Mahamandaleshwar Swami Jasraji who visited the previous year and it was the first of many visits for the 'vitamin burst' (divine fruit juice) and also cooking lessons! The lovely Rama taught us how to make three basic sauces used as a base in traditional Indian style; the white, the green and the red. We made a feast for lunch complete with naan bread. An amazing kitchen with inspiring tutors! Not a wonder it is also a thriving business. Rama's husband spends a lot of the year in Australia and there was some reflective decor and menu items such as vegemite sandwiches (since the whole extended family is well versed with tim tams, re-supplies of these do not last)!

The Jaisalmer Fort is a living fort. More than 300 families currently live there inside a 9 metre wall. Contributions toward preserving the fort are more than welcome, considering it is on the World Heritage 100 Most Endangered Monuments list. The main problem is that it is built on sand and sewerage flows into the foundations daily.

During Medieval times, the city played a major role in trade with Persia, Arabia, Egypt and Africa. While modern trade is conducted a little differently, Jaisalmer still caters to the increasing number of passing tourists. It is certainly contributing to the livelihood of many and I would have to say is one of the most prosperous of India's cities or any other that I've visited in the world. The biggest difference being it is the first city I've actually ever liked and could spend a longer time in! The locals want for nothing and without effort take the time to make themselves part of your day and memories to the city.

The changing colours of the sandstone that blends it so well with the desert surrounds, coupled with the patchwork cloth... SO BEAUTIFUL. Everywhere men were sitting together sipping chai, women were selling anklets, children were helping with various jobs, coming and going from school by day and playing games until late into the cooler evenings. One cow had it's head in the side bag of a motorbike while another with such a defined sandpaper tongue was enjoying Masala from a wash bucket. There were more than a multitude of photo opportunities for Mark's pleasure.

The way the rickshaw riders meticulously navigate the half-foot wide bridges, the car that got it's wheel stuck in one of the drains, the latticed windows filtering light into rooms, dark passageways, the architecture, such giant fort gates.... Much to my pleasure, cloth water bottle holders were for sale here, certainly not a common sight, so worth mentioning. Much to my amusement, the 'Free Tibet' restaurant where the Koreans had to be called back and asked to pay their bill ("Sorry, the food is not free. It's just the name of our restaurant"). Laura said to me "I'm starting to adopt this village mentality. Normal laws aren't going to make sense to me". No one was 'from' the city. They were all villagers, with home not so far away and they didn't hesitate to tell you how convenient it was for them to escape back regularly or invite you to come for a visit. We must return here to go to the desert village to meet the camel called Mr Bean.

A merchant told me I had a clean heart. I rode with his accomplice on the back of a motorbike through and out of the fort to search a bank. I closed my eyes and felt the warm wind on my face, the desert sun reflecting from the stones. While shopping with Laura, I wobbled my head ever so slightly and the merchant reverted from his excellent English into fluent Hindi, assuming of course that I was also an expert at his native tongue. I didn't have the heart to tell him otherwise and we made a subsequent trip back to the shop to secure the purchase when my tutors at the Surya Cafe had spruced up my Hindi vocab!

Another eventful shopping experience with Laura was the late night skirts and the business man not considering anything as auspicious despite our best endeavours. Note that the Surya Cafe has amazing rooftop views and if you are not into couchsurfing where you don't pay for your accommodation and in need of a bed, at only 150 Rupees a night for a room, it is definitely a recommendation. The two hosts are also fabulous company, making superb Indian cuisine and conversation. They really were the epitome of happy, willing, patient language teachers.

While hosted by Lucky, we stayed in a guesthouse he was renting inside the fort (despite Mark's assurances prior to arriving that we would not contribute to the destruction of the fort by staying inside). His family owned another guesthouse, an amazing place called Pol Haveli and we went there one evening to dine and chat. I helped make the Pakora and someone made me amazing chai (which kept me awake long after I intended to sleep)!

We talked about Lucky's double life. His obligations and respect for his family and his life in the city as a tour guide in the tourist season or a free spirit at the current time, hosting couchsurfers and learning about the world outside India. He said "We don't see sunset, we just see sunrise because we don't want our heads going down". Apart from the local history, we also talked about Bollywood and Cricket. Politics and Media, "If someone makes a small hole in the hill, people say the hill has been destroyed."

Lucky talked about the co-celebration of festivals by Hindus and Muslims. How although one cuts a papaya from top to bottom and the other from bottom to top or one holds a cigarette from the top and one from the bottom or wears their underwear in a particular style, or is buried 4metres below the earth or raised 4m above the earth on wood; these are trivial matters and not reflective of actually how very accepting and integrated they are of each other.

We heard the story of the biggest violence the area has ever known. One man was sentenced to 7years jail for killing 40 cows. This is India.

A highlight for sure was meeting Mr Happy. I heard his catchy classic tune before I set eyes on him and was instantly in love! I stayed to listen to his Happy song and subsequent tunes and sent Mark back to take his picture. He was an Indian Stevie Wonder, (though he did have good vision), wise and old and inspiring. This was one man I wanted to meet again.

I manifested another meeting later in the afternoon. We were both passing directly under the entrance/exit gates to the fort city when we made eye contact. He told me "I am a musician, music maker, giving the happy. So very, very happy to meet with you. Many women in my country not happy, you know? So I like to sing about the happy. You'll come to my Haveli? See me play tonight? So happy if you will come to listen. So very, very happy".

I did not need any convincing and neither did Laura! Since the gig was below the fort we enjoyed the opportunity to see what a night time lit up version of the fort is and were serenaded by the late night tunes. Mr Happy (Akubar) was living the dream! His band was made up of very young family members who had more rhythm and equally unassuming, content personalities. After all the other dining guests had left, they stayed on to play a couple more tunes just for us. I'm going back to record them one day soon.

Enjoyed a morning by the (man made) lake blowing bubbles with some local children. The water is known by the locals as Gadi Sagar. The cat fish there are well fed. They had such huge expectant mouths. The sandstone architecture by the lake is impressive. Artistically decorating the banks of the lake with carved Chattris, Temples, Shrines and Ghats. Not a lot of water in the lake now of course due to such a limited monsoon last year. The whole state of Rajasthan is praying for an abundant monsoon this year.

Driving out of the city on our 5.5hr bus journey back to Jodhpur and beyond, I marveled at the spinning wind turbines. A few pink desert flowers splashed the arid scene. Aiden was lost in a book in-between gaming, Mark and Laura listened to tunes, Cal was drawing. The rest of the bus was looking with curiosity at us or at ease, passing the time without a definitive distraction. A small Indian boy climbed up onto my lap and after ten minutes of resisting his fatigue, surrendered and was peacefully asleep.

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Comments

[Marg]

Mr Happy
Kath - more great stories. I notice Mr Happy is not smiling! However, I liked the words to his happy song which were in Cal's blog. Happy Easter! Marg.

[KMAC]

Thanks Marg. Lovely to hear from you. Hehe. Yes, it's not easy to get these Indian people smiling for their photos. Fuli the anklet seller was clearly much better versed with our western ways! Mr Happy along with most anyone else I photograph has such stern expressions. I have only managed to get the college girls to smile for photos by pulling funny faces behind someone else holding my camera! Happy Easter to you too. Hope all well with you. How is your yoga going? Mark has gone back to Aust for a bit of work so my morning Sadhana time is a it more limited. Slowly getting more organised again though and catching and making most of the smaller amounts of time here and there. Have my own class in the school in the coming weeks which will be a good opportunity to go a bit deeper with things rather than my usual floating between so many classes. Love from Jadan, Kath