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Published: December 11th 2009
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Although on leaving Tupiza we had a relatively small distance to cycle, we knew it would not be easy, especially as we still had about 100Kms of Bolivian corrugated dirt road to go, a surface which could easily finish off the bikes in their already weathered state.
We left the bliss of the swimming pool and gingerly set off towards the border just praying the bikes would hold out. Fortunately the road was not as bad as we expected, and there were even small patches of tarmac dotted about along the way. The day was going reasonably smoothly despite a tardy departure up until just before lunch time. Because we had descended quite considerably, there was much more vegetation about the place. But unfortunately most of the large bushes around were thorn bushes, and not the delicate type. This resulted in four punctures since leaving Tupiza on the first day, and a handful more the following day, especially for Raphael, who had to repair no less than six perforations to his tyres. But perhaps the problem which caused the most concern, was the broken gear hanger on Ross´s bike. Fortunately we had a spare one and it was soon back
to normal. Towards the end of the day we started climbing the puny 500m but morale was rather low, so we made the decision to climb no further, and camp just next to the new road under construction, running alongside the dirt road. Yet again, camp cookery was getting better and we perfected our bolognese sauce and washed it down with some Bolivian wine. The temperature was cool but warm enough to spend another night under the stars, lucky, as there was no flat space for the tent. The baking sun the following morning ensured that we did not take a lie-in. We did not, however, head off straight away, as Ross was greeted by a morning puncture when loading his bike. Though a mere puncture does not sound too disasterous, repairing it really is the last thing you want to be doing first thing in the morning, especially as we knew the day was going to be long and tough right from the start. Indeed it was, and Raphael kicked off a string of breakages when he suffered a puncture no less than about 2km into a hot and dusty climb. Then my chain broke,so the weak link was
immediately extracted like a cancer and discarded with a plethora of expletives. Raphael had another puncture. Meanwhile, Ross had decided to try the unfinished road alongside, but out of view and was thus completely ignorant of the trials of his companions who were now some distance behind and making painstakingly slow progress. My chain broke twice more before we were reunited with Ross at the front, a good hour later. We were not happy, and Ross was confused. He was unsure whether we were ahead of him or behind him, as Raphael and I had not caught him up despite his waiting for us. People whom he had asked had explained to him that there were two cyclists ahead of him. Ross tried to catch up with these two cyclists and after about 5km it dawned on him that they were in fact not Raphael or Bill, but two Australian guys. They had been on the road for 18 months and were cycling from Alaska to the southernmost point in Argentina.
So, thanks to all these problems and this confusion, time was not on our side and if we were to make it to the border before it shut,
we would have to be fairly lucky, and have a little divine intervention, something which we had not thus far been blessed with. We skipped lunch (well, munched on a few biscuits) and turned onto the unfinished road in the hope that it would carry us to Villazon, Bolivia´s border town, with more haste than the dirt road. The surface was much better and the best bit was that there were no trucks or buses tearing past us coating us with fine dust and plunging us into momentary blindness. It seemed that our prayers were finally answered and despite another puncture, and another chain breakage, we arrived in LaQuiaca in surprisingly good time, thankyou tail wind. Villazon was not a very nice place and so we wasted no time in crossing the border to Argentina´s border town of La Quiaca. Immediately things started to improve and the two countries were much more of a contrast than Bolivia and Peru, or Bolivia and Chile, much to our delight. We stayed in a hostal with a cheery owner, hot showers, and loo roll! Our first meal in Argentina had to be a meaty one and the rumours were true; it was amazing.
No more than a kilometer away from Bolivia, yet it felt like heaven. We had a great time in Bolivia, but it was a massive relief to finally arrive in Argentina, eat nice steak and begin to enjoy the remainder of our trip on tarmac, not having to worry anymore about the state of our wheels.
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June/Sue/Dave
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Dave seen specialist, further treatment in new year. Progressing well. Comming to Ashley 22nd for christmas. Safe journey home. Well done boys.