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Published: October 15th 2009
So am I mad for going off and joining three strangers on a boat?? No madder than they were for inviting a stranger on to their boat......
So Friday morning rolled around and I rocked up at the Breakfast Bar and as soon as I sat down the guy behind the counter just nodded at me and I nodded back. I had been here the previous two days and after day one he knew my order so within five minutes I had a coffee and a bowl of fruit (no banana), museli and yogurt in front of me. Just as I started tucking in Rob and Fiona rolled up and sat down and joined me - Rik had stayed behind to do some jobs on the boat.
We all had a laugh about Wednesday night and Rob kept on complaining that the place was rocking - he still had his sea legs on so being back on land was confusing for his body. Breakfast down and my contribution to the trip, a crate of beer and milk, bought we headed off in the car to the boat. We got to the dock and Fiona and I jumped in the
My sailing companions
(right to left) Rik, Fiona and Robdingy whilst Rob dropped the car off.
On arrival at Dikenga I was welcomed aboard and given a tour. Rik finished off a few jobs that he had been doing that morning and we were ready to set sail. I was asked if I had done any sailing before and I confirmed not a bean but was willing to learn. It was decided that there was enough wind to put the sails up and so Rob having lifted the anchor I was then put to work in putting the sail up under instructions of Rik and Fiona with both of them keeping a watchful eye over me with Rik lending a hand when I didn't have a clue!
Sails up and we were off heading Pulau Dayang Bunting and the Lake of the Pregnant Maiden. We were very fortunate that day and were able to sail for the full day with the sails up and no engine. Lunch that day was my first taste of “goat curry”. I still don't know to this day what it was and I'm not entirely sure anyone knew the contents of the curry hence its nickname. Regardless of the name though it
was actually quite tasty!! On arriving at the island we sailed past the entrance to the lake and anchored the boat in a sheltered spot. The dingy then came out and we headed off for the Lake of the Pregnant Maiden.
It is believed by the natives that the Lake is guarded by a white crocodile that bestows good luck on those entering its waters and it appears to those who are upright and pious. Needless to say it didn't appear to me! A second legend has it that the Lake has been blessed with divine powers and any childless woman drinking in water from this reservoir shall soon be blessed with progeny (I HOPE NOT!!). We had a quick dip in the lake and then headed back to the dingy.
On the walk back from the Lake to the dingy we were met with some monkeys so I, being the wise person I am at times, decided it would be a good idea to run and stamp my foot at a monkey to get it off the path.... the monkey duly ran however Daddy Monkey soon came running up the path bearing his teeth. Thankfully he veered
off and headed into the trees but not before I shook my head at my own stupidity!
Back in the dingy (after I had tried to take Fiona and myself out by slipping on the bottom step) we got back to the boat and ended up moving it further into the bay where it would be a bit more sheltered. This done we all sat and chilled with a few beers and eventually we moved onto wine and then finally the sambucca came out.
Towards the end of the evening Rik and I found ourselves sat at the back of the boat having a deep and meaningful conversation during which he repeated a sentence that Mr Vorley has previously used “your having a mid-life crisis”! (Rik if you are reading this I still don't know what or where I want to be by the time I am 50!) Unfortunately we never finished our conversation as Rob appeared from the cabin trying to pretend he had been asleep and then he wanted us to be impressed how he had got there (he had been at the front of the ship with Fiona) however Rik blithely pointed out he must
have gone through the front hatch bursting Robs balloon. Shortly after that it was time for bed although Rik had to do some repairs to the toilet (sorry!!)
Saturday morning and I was up and about early so sat up on the deck watching the sun come up. After breakfast we all sat on the deck and Fiona announced that we were having a boat meeting effectively they were heading up to the north east part of the island and an area known as “hole in the wall”. She told me that they could drop me off in Kuah on their way past or I could join them for the trip - Rik was nodding his head at this point indicating I should join them. After making sure that they were happy for me to join them the decision was made and off we went.
The dingy was brought back on board the boat and I was set to work at raising the anchor. The day before I had been told that my guest status expired on Saturday morning and so after a discussion I was given the title of “gun monkey” (my job being to fend of
unwanted boarders) I had been offered the higher job of “cabin boy” but turned it down saying I would ease myself in and start at the bottom of the rung.
Having raised the anchor and with Fiona as captain for the day we set off on our next journey. After awhile of chilling Fiona asked if I wanted to take over steering the boat which I duly did under the initial watchful eye of Rik and Fiona however after awhile they both wandered off their separate ways (Rik into the cabin and Fiona at the helm). All was fine until we came across a couple of fisherman and Rob looked back at me fro the deck I looked at him. Eventually I shouted him to ask Fiona which way we had to go around them and she duly pointed. After a minute she came back to the back of the boat and realised Rik wasn't in sight. Not long after this the auto pilot system was put on which then only required an occasional tweaking to change our course.
Mid afternoon we arrived at “hole in the wall” and the boat was moored up. Once again the beers
were cracked open. Rik disappeared for awhile at the front of the boat and I assumed (and even made the statement) he must be doing some more jobs as I could see him messing with some rope. Next thing we knew he came flying around the side of the boat holding on to a rope letting go and landing with a splash in the water - a rope swing had been created! After another go Rob decided he had to give it a try which then prompted both Fiona and I to get our bathers on and see what we could do. Unfortunately I struggled with pushing myself out wide so both times ended up dropping near the front.... the second amusing moment came when I had to get myself from the sea into the dingy - bearing in mind I have no upper body strength! Lets just say Rob's comment was along the lines of “it isn't pretty watching a woman getting into a dingy”!
Once again it started raining and so we descended into the cabin and out came the dominoes. The first round was an open hand so I could grasp the rules they were playing
too and thereafter it was each man for himself. I won the first game however it was only beginners luck as I was third in the second game and it was pure chance that I didn't lose!
That night during dinner we started watching a film and in true Andrea style, dinner over, I made myself comfortable and was soon asleep so its another film I have started watching but never finished (very much a theme for the year!).
Sunday morning rolled around and I was woken up around 7am by Rob going on deck for a call of nature. On his return he saw I was awake so came running over and giving me a big hug and wished me a happy birthday. I was now wide awake so went on deck with my two birthday cards and present from home (brought over by Mum and Dad). I then sat admiring the fantastic view and I couldn't think of anywhere nicer to have been at that moment.
That morning Fiona made us pancakes for breakfast and after a large rain shower we headed off in the dingy. Our first stop was around the corner to watch the
tour boats throwing food into the water and the brown eagles swooping down and picking it up and eating it. It was an amazing sight however it is tinged with sadness as the eagles are becoming reliant on the food and forgetting how to hunt for themselves. Also they are fed chicken skin and guts which a pumped full of chemicals etc so it is damaging their health.
From there we headed down the river and into the Mangrove Forests. We toured around and investigated and spent awhile watching a family of monkeys playing in the trees above us. Whilst down another small tributary we spotted a large kingfisher and a woodpecker.
We returned to the boat and the heavens once again opened and so Rik and I took shelter in the cabin. Next thing we knew Fiona was shouting us to come and have a look at Rob so we duly went to find him sat in the sea in an inflatable crab with a beer in a “stubby holder” in hand. It was then decided that we were all going to join him and so there was a scramble to get all the lilos and other
inflatables out and inflated. At this point it was also decided that since it was also Gustov's Birthday he should join us.
At this point I should explain that Gustov is a Gnome that is traveling with Rik on Dikenga. Gustov is 311AC years old (AC is something to do with gnome years) and his birthday happens to be on the 11th October!! There is a lot more I could tell you about Gustov but without sounding too mad I will leave it at that...
Lilos blown up and Gustov in place it was decided we all need to do a shot so I opted for the rum whilst the boys went with tequila this done we jumped in. I was given the yellow ring/seat and much to everyones amusement I struggled to climb into it - there is some video footage out there but it is going to remain hidden on this occasion!! Once in place we happily drifted along whilst drinking beer from our “stubby coolers”.
For a reason I can't remember now it became my mission to dump Fiona and Rik from their lilo into the sea unfortunately it actually meant that it was
me that did most of the swimming despite my determined efforts - much to their amusement!
After a few more beers and shots of vodka it was time to call it quits. I floated around for a bit longer and when it became time for me to get out I once again struggled to get from the water into the dingy and then onto the boat...
That night I had an absolute treat and a meal that I have been dreaming of for a long time a roast chicken dinner!! In fact one of my requests to Mum and Dad when they left me in Penang was that I wanted a roast as my first meal and I also wanted at some point on my return one of Mums homemade egg custards and a lemon cheesecake (I'm drooling at the thought now!). Anyway Fiona cooked up an amazing chicken, roast potatoes, beans, stuffing and gravy!
Dinner over and a coded conversation commenced. I however soon grasped on as Rik disappeared and then reappeared with a Thai Sky Lantern. The lantern is made from thin tissue paper and bamboo and once the wick is lit it flies into
the sky. So Rik started to try and light the wick with a cigarette lighter but was having little luck when he disappeared and re-appeared with his blow torch. The wick lit and we all held onto it passing all our bad luck into it and we then let go and it ascended gracefully into the night sky. It was such a pretty and graceful sight to watch.
Next trick up their sleeves was a Chinese firecracker. This was definitely one to make us popular with the neighbouring boats....! Having set it off the night sky was lit up with fireworks that gave off a resounding boom which was then echoed around as we were moored next to a rock face. Once again it was an amazing sight if not a little deafening. The party mood set and the music cranked up on the ipod lots of fun was to be had.
At some point in the evening Rob had disappeared down to the front of the boat and so I went to investigate and found him dancing away to the Scissor Sisters track “I don't feel like dancing”. Having laughed my head off and joined in for
awhile I looked up and saw the night sky. It was one of the very few perfectly clear nights we had had without a thunderstorm in sight. A discussion then pursued and Rob couldn't believe that I had never seen a shooting star or satellite. So that then found us lying on the deck looking up at the sky and Rob regularly shouting at me to keep looking upwards and not look at him when I was talking to him...!! Unfortunately I didn't see any satellites however I was lucky enough to see a number of shooting stars. Even after everyone had gone to bed I continued lying on the deck watching the sky but eventually it started getting a bit chilly and rather than root around to find some extra layers I called it a night and headed to bed a very happy girl!!
Monday morning and I was slightly sluggish, due more to tiredness rather than alcohol I hasten to add! However we soon set off having agreed that the guys would drop me off in Kuah and I would sort myself out from there. Once again the sea was as flat as a pancake and no
sign of any wind so we motored along with the engine. My bags packed it was time to throw me overboard. However rather than dumping me in the sea and letting me make my own way Rik was kind enough to get permission to call in at the Langkawi Yacht Club to drop me off.
On the approach in I was told that I was still on board and therefore had to work so was duly handed a buoy to hang off the side - Rob thankfully came to my rescue as despite Rik showing me how to tie the knot I was still stood there with a blank look on my face.... I then got the uncomplicated task of passing the mooring rope to Fiona after she had jumped on to the dock (I should really have taken note at this point as she nearly slipped on the dock as she jumped off). Anyway I grabbed my bags from the cabin and passed them to Rob and then put my shoes on my feet, I hadn't seen my shoes since I had arrived on the boat. Anyway I jumped off the boat and in doing so I misjudged
it and my right foot landed, slipped and twisted over. I was soon rolling around in pain with the guys looking at me in concern and thinking it was my backside that I had hurt. However the benefits of having a big backside are that it cushions most falls however my ankle is not so lucky. Rik and Rob stood me up and I assured them I was fine however Rik had a quick look, he is an ex-paramedic, and he jumped back on the boat and came off holding an elasticated bandage and some ultra strong painkillers. I took the bandage but assured him I had some painkillers and would put an ice pack on when I could....
I said my goodbyes and limped to the taxi rank. At this point I had no reservation for the night however had a place in mind. I was determined not to return to the previous mouse and cockroach infested lodge however the guest house next door had always looked nice so decided I would try there first. Thankfully the Palms Guest House had a room so I didn't have to trail much further looking for a bed. I booked in
for two night and soon whipped my shoe off and put my foot up. The room luckily had a small fridge with freezer compartment so I filled up the ice cube tray in order to make a DIY ice pack.
A phone call home was then in order since Mum and Dad had arrived back from Singapore to an e:mail telling them that I was going off on a boat with some random strangers. Unfortunately whilst on the boat my mobile was playing up so whilst I could send and receive messages phone calls weren't coming through so they were duly worried about me. The rest of the day was spent catching up on the million and one birthday messages I had received and sorting my flights out to leave Langkawi for Bangkok. When I went out for dinner I had a drink first in a bar and two guys came and joined me and they happened to be from the Langkawi Yacht Club so when I said what I had been doing for the past 4 days they got full on into their boat talk however my eyes glazed over as they became very technical and very boring....
These were two guys I wouldn't jump on a boat with especially since the younger one was a bit of a prat (in my humble opinion)!
Tuesday rolled around and my ankle was a nice size and colour so having had breakfast at my usual place, even after 4 days absence the guy still knew what I wanted, I quickly dived into the internet shop to watch the video Jess and Jacob had made for my birthday along with uploading my photos onto here! I then got back to the guest house and spent the day with my foot up with the occasional ice pack on reading my girly trash and updating my blogs.
Wednesday morning ensued with a slight panic that the laundry was shut for the day but had half my rucksack. Thankfully the guest house owners pointed me to the owners house where his wife got a guy to meet me and unlock the place just so I could get my washing. Bags packed, breakfast eaten and I was on my way to the airport. Goodbye Langkawi and Malaysia after a month..... I spent much longer in Malaysia than I ever anticipated and after an
unimpressed start in Borneo I have to say that the place has grown on me and I will return!
Finally if you had asked me how I imagined I would be spending my birthday this year I would never have said I would be spending it with stranger on a boat - strangers in a bar maybe. However I would not change a thing and it is definitely a birthday to remember and it will take a lot to beat in the future!
I know that some of you will think that I was mad to jump on a boat with complete strangers however part of the joy of travelling is meeting new people and taking calculated risks. I had spent enough time on that first evening with Rik, Fiona and Rob to know that I would be safe and so my decision was that I had nothing to lose but everything to gain. As Fiona told me if I had been sat at that table with another person they would have not looked twice at me and it is unlikely we would have ever gotten talking and my birthday would have been a whole lot different.
Call it fate, chance, coincidence, destiny but call it what you will I just know I was a lucky person to be in that restaurant at that time and to meet such lovely and friendly people and also people that are as mad and childish as I am.
So just a final thank you is to be said to Rik, Fiona, Rob, Gustov, Sean, JC, CJ and everyone else on Dikenga I hope we can meet again sometime......
The madness of Bangkok now beckons!
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Rik
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4 Days Before the Mast
Certainly a tale of tragic woe. Being force fed grog and gruel, fending off pirates with a rusty sabre, being chained to the oars, and waking every morning drunk in the scuppers. Glad you had a good time! Yoda and I are adjusting to the terrible echo below caused by too much empty space. Happy trails!