where i be.

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"The ocean is in constant flux, and when you spend a lot of time in it you become like a floating bottle with a message inside; you know you´re going somewhere, sense you have a purpose, but you also know you´re at the mercy of the winds and currents, that surrendering may be your only good option."
-Jaimal Yogis

Looking out into the sea here at Playa El Tunco, El Salvador, I tend to see quite a few floating bottles. It is, however, doubtful that any of the countless discarded plastic vessels that formerly held Coca-Cola, Fanta, Sprite have any messages stored within. They bob about along with abandoned flip-flops, orphans that have lost the feet they call home and their twins that they call family. Wood, ranging from the tiny stick to entire trees make up the bulk of the debris that litters the beach here, changing day to day with the tides, constantly on the move from one spot to another. Everyday, the constant flux of the ocean serves up a new dish for the eye to feast on. Such is life on the beach in El Salvador.

I've been here in El Tunco for over two weeks now, enjoying my time floating around, much like the displaced recycling, in the waves of this beautiful place. And as the swells fluctuate from week to week, ranging from chest high to double overhead, I find that I too, again like the bottles, am at the mercy of the winds and the currents, and so I surrender and let them take me where I shall go. For the last few days the ocean has been dishing up huge bombs out at the right point, and yesterday I spent two hours paddling around, searching for a peak, trying to avoid the gentle but diligent current that sought to pull me and my board inside to where the sets would break right on my head. And for two hours I did find that peak one time, and i rode that wave for well over 150 yards, all the way to the beach. Those two hours of paddling, duck diving, and trying to minimize time spent underwater have left me now with a tired back and sore shoulders. And so now, here i sit, trying to figure out what exactly this blog should be about.

Life here has been reduced to some basic things- sleeping, surfing, eating, drinking, breathing, being. Though not listed in their order of importance, they define my days and weeks now that begin to blur into one collective memory. I seem to have some time on my hands these days. So I´m reading alot (i just read 'Shantaram,' an amazing novel i recommend to everyone), playing the ukulele, and finding different ways to prepare the ubiquitous red beans and rice. Yoga has been helping me stay limber, and my new haircut(!) has given me a newfound sense of lightness. I´ve moved into a place called 'La Guitarra' and have made some new friends, gotten a loaner guitar, and have settled in to life here. It looks like I'll be here for a little while.

until next time,
ryan

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Photos

big, brown, and blown out
no takers today

during....
check out the mohawk...

Comments

[Peggy]

Only to be young again
I think what you are doing is wonderful! I wish many times that I, too, was that bottle bobbing in the open sea. I am glad you did finally get that wave. BTW your new haircut makes you look like a handsome surfer dude! Keep riding those waves.

[Yer Momma]

But are you still you?
Back to Skool Nite tonite . . . but had to read . . . wondering if I would know you if I passed you on the street! Let me know if you recommend it . . .. I may give it a try too! Love, Mom

[Aunt Denny]

Blown Away
Ryan, did you run off and join the Marines? Please don't make us wait so long to hear from you again! This is a great novel and the suspense is killing me. At ease; carry on; with LOVE from the States. {:=p

[Burl]

The Wide open Sky
Orion, Brother Thanks for the words and inspiration and to know that people like you continue to explore the wide open sky and to follow the dreams of the moment. I wish I were there with you dropping in on overhead lefts and wondering where the next meal might be and whom that meal will be shared with. The stories shall compile and before we know it we will be sharing a beluga on some mexican shore passing the time with stories of the wide open sky. I love you as my own brother. Keep us posted and I love those pictures of the ocean. They make me cry. Much love and Respect, Burl

[scott averyt]

Those are some great pictures. I read a Hunter Thompson quote last week that made me think about you "Weird heroes and mould-breaking champions exist as living proof to those who need it that the tyranny of 'the rat race' is not yet final." you're def. my hero. keep at it!

[Shira]

Dios bendiga este hombre
You look wonderful, Ryan! I am liking the ocean rhythm you capture in your writing and the way your life seems to mirror it right now. . . glad you got a guitar. . . please keep writing--it is good to hear how this journey moves through you.