Buffalo have the right of way

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On the road early the morning of Tuesday, Sept. 1, leaving Oacoma, SD. Actually did a short backwards run on I-90 to the rest stop the other side of Chamberlain for a great exhibit on Lewis and Clark. South Dakota has done a great job with their rest stops - friendly people to help you find directions, clean restrooms, interesting exhibits. One of the things Steve and I realized is that we've forgotten as much US history as we remember. Barely could remember much about Lewis and Clark - one of my favorite factoids is that they sent a prarie dog back to Jefferson in the White House.

Another day of setting the cruise control at 75 and trying to stay awake. South Dakota is one humongous state! Lots of fields of sunflowers, with their rude, riotous colors causing you to blink as you sweep by. Fields of hay bales - late haying this summer due to the cool, wet weather - laid out with architectural precision. And more of those ubiguitous bugs - can barely see the front of the car these days - we struggle to clean them off at the gas station but to little avail 20 miles down the road. I can hardly believe there is a bug left in SD that we haven't made the acquaintance of. Lots of road repair - accompanied by signs saying that it is being paid for by the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act - glad to see my tax dollars at work.

Late morning we pulled off I-90 at Cactus Flat as we had read about a new National Historic Site commemorating the Minuteman Missile program - it's so new it's barely there and we missed the underground control room tour but got directions to the missile silo. We meandered down to Badlands National Park for about an hour - a stunning vista of craggy rocks and plains as far as the eye can see. Coming back to I-90 we did a U-turn back east about 6 miles to see the missile and it was definitely worth the trip. Imagine standing in the middle of the prarie peering down into a missile silo with a fortunately decommissioned Minuteman missile staring back at you - in the middle of nowhere. I guess that was the point...the missiles were in the middle of nowhere so it was tough for the bad guys to find them. There were hundreds of these missiles spread across the West - in farmers backyards - that would have made quite a story at show and tell in school - remember duck and cover drills!!! It was an eerie sight...felt very lonely out there.

How many of you remember cars in the 50's and 60's with bumperstickers saying "Where the hell is Wall Drug?" Well, I now know where Wall Drug is, in Wall, SD. I so clearly remember those bumperstickers - when bumpersticks were made from cardboard and attached with wires to your bumper, while you were parked in the parking lot at whatever attraction you had stopped at. I always had this hankering to find out exactly where Wall Drug is...and now I know... and I could probably have lived happily without knowing! Be that as it may, we made the required stop, got the free ice water for our water bottles, took the photo of the jackalope, and quickly skedaddled out of town. Just in case you had forgotten that Wall Drug was in Wall, SD you were constantly reminded with billboards about every few miles, starting at the SD border - oh, where was Lady Bird Johnson and her roadside beautification program when you needed her...

We finally pulled into Custer State Park late afternoon - it is a gorgeous part of the world, with a feeling not unlike the Sierras. Didn't take us long to find the buffalo, as they were grazing right next to where we were staying...and hopefully planned on staying on their side of the road...We drove up to Mt. Rushmore, about 20 miles away, by Iron Mountain Road, which features one way rock tunnels through which you get distant views of Mt. Rushmore, pig tail bridges which cross back over the road and gorgeous wildlife. I couldn't help but feel excited as we drew near - it's such an iconic place. After a truly terrible dinner there - why can't they get decent catering contracts in national parks - could it have something to do the federal contract bidding system? - we walked up the Avenue of the States and the mountain surrounds you. You have a sense of majesty...and awe that man could accomplish such a feat. Excellent exhibits documenting the process of creating the carving - Borglum, the sculptor, must have had a vision and passion to get it done.

We relaxed in the stunning amphitheatre cut into the mountainside listening to some of my favorite music - John Philip Sousa marches - waiting for the lighting ceremony to begin at 8 p.m. After a short film about the site, the floodlights emblazon the faces, patriotric music blares forth and everyone rises to sing the National Anthem. And after that...something very meaningful. All current and former members of the armed forces were invited to come down to the stage, participate in the flag lowering ceremony - it was amazing that these four 60 something men completed the ceremony, including the complex flag folding, just as if they had done it yesterday - and then had an opportunity to introduce themselves and their branch of the service. One young man brought his 7 year old daughter on stage with him - he was just back from Iraq. Needless to say there was barely a dry eye in the house by the end. I know it can seem kind of corny...but in such a setting, on such a gorgeous night, it was incredibly memorable. Letting go of cynicism can be a good thing.

A relaxing day today - nice not to be on the road. Exploring Custer State Park today and making the acquaintance of buffalo...and more buffalo...and more buffalo. They are ungainly animals, with beady eyes, but since there were lots of babies cavorting with their moms it made it almost cute. We were driving down the wildlife loop and literally had to stop dead in the road...since buffalo clearly have the right of way and they were insisting on their rights. It's a bit uncomfortable sitting in your car surrounded by a herd of buffalo, wondering if they're ever going to move...and hoping they don't take your car in askance and sit on it. Pronghorn antelope, some silly white burros, prarie dogs - lots of the wildlife of the prarie on parade. Driving the Needles Highway with gorgeous views of needlelike stone formations and hairpin turn roads.

The highlight of the day was Wind Cave National Park - never even knew it existed before we came here. It is one of the world's largest caves, over 130 miles of underground tunnels. We took a 90 minute tour with a great ranger, going 300 feet underground. The National Park Service has done an excellent job creating a respectful, but easy to access, environment - walkways, steps, railing, lights. At one point the ranger turned off all the lights and you could experience pure and utter lack of light - truly, when you held your hand in front of your face you still couldn't see anything - very eerie. The original natural entrance is a tiny 14" opening into the earth - who in hell would have the guts to go down there the first time?!!

Off to Bozeman tomorrow... and fly fishing.

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Photos

Badlands
You tend to be careful walking around

Minuteman Missile
The reason we ducked and covered..

Wall Drug
What - you've never seen a jackalope before?

Evening ceremony
Members of the armed services being honored.

Buffalo have the right of way
and hopefully don't get too close.

Silly burros
who do get too close

Original entrance to cave
Who would ever have done down that hole?

Comments

[Marjorie]

We have loved your blogs-- feel as if we are getting a history lesson. I have to repeat what I have always said, Anne Marie, there is a book in you waiting to be written.

[John Eaton]

Cary and Eva?
Did you see Cary Grant and Eva Marie Saint at Mount Rushmore? I love these posts - they really make me want to do this kind of trip.

[AMG]

Missed Cary and Eva...but thought about doing the stunts myself the next time! North by Northwest will definitely be going on our Netflix list - come up for the weekend and see it with us!