Anarchy in pyjamas on motorbikes, before where the Dragon descended into the sea (Hanoi to Ha Long Bay)

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The contrast between laid back Luang Prabang, nestled peacefully by rivers among hills and manic Hanoi must be as great as that between any two cities in the world. Elliot exclaimed - “It’s massive! And it’s flat!” We got a large taxi along the first major motorway we have seen since KL. Mum demonstrated why she has no peer (for entertainment value at least) in games like Taboo, attempting to converse with the driver. She asked him if the car was a “Toyohtarh” and he looked blankly. She mimed driving, and then said “Not a Ferrari” he responded “No Toyota!” (Imagine trying to say it as quickly as you can in a karate sensi style.)

The people are as different as the cities, and whereas in LP event the tuk tuk drivers seemed to say “Tuk tuk, waterfall?” because they felt you expected it of them, they did not seem to expect you to say yes, in Hanoi you are pestered endlessly by cyclos - “1 hour”, and vendors of all sorts who are insistent and seem certain that you do not mean it when you say “No.”

We became more and more astounded at the Vespas buzzing about, up and down either lane or even the pavements laden with people, pictures, a bike held across by the passenger, a child’s toy car, and huge parcels. Dad became increasingly amusingly outraged by the driving tactics and barking advice and insults at the worst perpetrators. We checked in at the Golden Sun 1 only to discover that due to “AC problems in the rooms” we had been bumped to Golden Sun 2 - only 3 doors down the street, but less “Boutique Hotel”, nonetheless it was clean and pleasant, and we were still able to breakfast on the 7th floor on GS1 with its views over the lake and city.

The heat and humidity were stifling, and each time we ventured out we were dripping with sweat within seconds. I think we averaged about 5 showers a day, the effects of which lasted until you ventured out again. It remains an extraordinary sensation for a Brit to be cool inside and walk out into warmth. We managed short excursions to pay for our cruise, pick up tickets for the water puppets, and visit the train station, all punctuated with drinks, ices and more cool showers. Once everything that we had to do had been done, we headed for a pool to revive our ever more wilted children. The swimming pool we plumped for was in an Army owned hotel - a very strange concept but a welcome pool.

The following day we wandered in town before a visit to the water puppets. This charming and peculiar art form clearly evolved from paddy farmers entertaining family and friends. It consisted of several vignettes, which were witty, funny graceful and beautiful. We all enjoyed it far more than we thought we would. More ices on the way back to the hotel before heading out for dinner. On our final day we did a little shopping, and visited a preserved Hanoi house, which was interesting. By now we were getting used to the traffic especially the scooters. Crossing the roads is a completely different technique to that back home. You cannot wait for a gap or even for the lights to change - as the scooters ignore them (and one way streets). Instead you just wander slowly out, and let them avoid you. Scary at first but eventually you get used to it!

We had 2 ideas about eating in Hanoi: to try some of the street food; to eat at some of the restaurants that train up street children. A couple of attempts at the former failed (weather and having walked too far) but we had excellent food at the variety of charitable restaurants we patronised. Food for the tummy and the soul was how it was branded and we felt good on both counts. We ate at several including restaurants, cafes and bought cakes at the bakery. All were excellent, with first class food, including western dishes to keep the boys happy, and Asian ones for the adults.

The most memorable one was the first, where bizarrely moments after sitting down we were greeted by the manager who explained the t shirt coding at Koto, and then presented us with the Christmas menu (on the 24th of July). The students graduate in late November, so do not get a chance to do Christmas was the explanation - although we never found out why it was the 24th of July they chose instead. The menu was delicious fresh seafood bearing no relation to turkey + trimmings, and the staff were cheerful, friendly and desperate to please. At the last one we ate at, Dad ordered a bottle of fizz, and we watched as a young waiter was taught how to open and serve the wine. All the other staff gathered to watch, and we gave him a round of applause when he finished. It is definitely worth considering these places when you visit cities like this, the food is no more expensive, but is clearly doing such good.

There were many strange things in Hanoi. The traffic, what people transported on bikes, women carrying portable cafes in baskets on poles, but nothing compared to the lake in early morning. Inevitably the boys’ Grandad was first up and saw the strangest of this, and urged us all to visit. Why the guidebooks don’t make more of it I do not know. There are people of all ages exercising, and as well as furious and serious games of badminton and hacky sack there are Thai Chi and aerobics classes of all sorts. Most people however seem to have just invented their own methods, from literally beating up their tummies and bums, to kicking chains, arm waving, bending stretching and gurning. Strangest of all was a group of perfectly synchronised middle aged ladies who were swaying gently with rackets on which balls were balanced, occasionally tossing them up and catching them and passing them under their legs, all to a soundtrack in the middle of a public footpath with no sign of self conciousness. We even saw a handful of couples out getting wedding pictures done before the heat of the day (and the build up of traffic) and one bride in the middle of a road with three photographers that must have been a magazine shoot. Only we seemed surprised.

After our last night in Hanoi we were picked up by a mini coach which was to drive us to Ha Long Bay. We climbed aboard and drove around the lake. Three quarters of the way round I commented we were nearly back where we had started and sure enough moments later we pulled up exactly where we had been collected and picked up the final 4 passengers - fellow guests at Golden Sun who because they had booked separately were collected separately. We could not believe it. Mum and Dad winced, marvelled and read while the boys listened to HP for the three hour journey. When eventually we arrived and climbed aboard what was to be our boat for 24hours it was all worth it. A group of about 15 (ever changing depending on how many nights people were doing) were catered for in luxury. The décor and food in the restaurant were delicious and the cabins small but stylish. Every time we boarded the boat we got welcome drinks - a delicious variety of fruit juices. We had lunch as we sailed off, marvelling at the truly spectacular scenery, vaguely familiar to most as the home of Scaramanger in the Man with the Golden Gun. There are 1996 limestone rocks and islands in the bay many of notable shape and beauty. Certainly no photos I have seen do it justice. In this amazing setting activities were packed in: we visited huge caves with stalactites and stalagmites; swum from the junk in the warm South China sea, leaping from the junk (or climbing down the ladder) and also receiving our first jellyfish stings; we kayaked through more caves into secret lagoons. Above all we ate and chatted, getting to know some of our fellow travellers well, all of whom had interesting tales to share.

A final addendum to the street kids project food story was that in the evening after dinner while the boys were settling of, we set on the deck of our boat and got talking to a lad who was working on the ship. He asked if we had heard of KOTO and when we said we had eaten there, beamed that he had trained there. He now had dreams, and after earning some money was going to get his certificates and become a tour guide. He said he always tries to talk to guests as that is how to improve his English.

We were dropped back at the railway station ready to get the sleeper train to Hue. The six of us were to share a cabin smaller than the 3 we had had aboard ship. 2 of us were reminded of inter rail experiences, and the boys were beside themselves with excitement. How would the journey go?

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Photos

Boat in the Bay
(Not our one!)

Comments

[louis King]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY ELLIOT
hAPPY HAPPY BIRTHDAY ELLIOT SEE YOU SOON FROM LOUIS