Advertisement
Published: August 1st 2009
Edit Blog Post
The train was clean and provided sheets pillows and duvets unlike our inter-rail experiences and being crammed into a hard sleeper for the 6 of us was quite a pleasurable (one off) experience. Grandad’s neck was suffering a bit post kayaking, and he lay down and was asleep almost immediately. The boys were up and down to the top bumk where eventually they settled too excited to sleep and the rest of us gradually drifted off to sleep, Granny having perfectly organised her belongings in the little pouch provided like the good Girl Guide she was. We all slept well, waking intermittently to peer at the scenery (Brown Animals in Green Stuff according to Granddad) before being lulled back to sleep by the clickety clack rock a bye action of the train on the tracks. Just as we began to panic that we may have missed it, we arrived 2 hours later than promised in Hue. Roz was with me in that carriage as she was through most of the sleepers I took in Europe in the early nineties.
Hue is the spiritual and cultural capital of Vietnam, and far calmer and relaxed than hustling Hanoi. We were thrilled to
discover that the Hotel we were booked in for was not only light, clean and spacious, but also had a rooftop restaurant where we could breakfast, and better still a kidney shaped rooftop swimming pool. The boys were reluctant to be dragged away to visit the sights: the spectacular mausoleum of Khai Dinh - so vain that it took 11 years to complete, a noted dandy he allegedly brought fairy lights from France, and wore them as a necklace until the batteries wore out.; the more peaceful bucolic one of Tu Doc, with temples to his minor wives, mother, and wives, with huge lakes of lilies and forests and orchards; to a beautiful peaceful pagoda which we travelled up the perfume river to, josticks burning in a serene setting again brought Roz to all of our minds. Whenever we were not out, the boys were in the pool.
On the morning of his birthday Elliot woke last, and when he did the boys (all 3) rushed upstairs to the pool. The grandparents had been and left, but a swim before a huge and varied buffet breakfast with cards form loved ones delivered with love by his grandparents was a
most satisfactory way to start his birthday - Fan-tiddly-tastic in fact. Jake was pleased not to be forgotten too. Thanks to Grannny Gon, Grandpa and Anne, Emma Paul, and Rhiana, Kirsten and Gareth, Granny Y, and the Pitts and the Hadens all of whose offerings had him beaming with joy on his special day.
After breakfast we visited the impressive Forbidden Citadel - in the process of rebuilding post American bombing, but interesting nonetheless. We returned to the hotel for the boys to have a final swim while we packed and checked out, and then headed off to Hoi Ann. A private minibus (it was cheaper than 6 bus tickets!) carried us up and over the marble mountains, and then into Hoi An. We were stunned by yet another beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site, and another hotel with swimming pool. Elliot leapt joyfully into the second swimming pool of his birthday and after a brief wander we headed out to the Full Moon Town restaurant. When the boys grandparents declare a restaurant the pick of those they have been to you cannot be on to a bad thing. It was a beautiful riverside restaurant built in wood which we
What a cake!
Apparently they are chicks on it but we were sure they were incongruous snowmen! had to ourselves. The food was exquisite and if an 8 year old has celebrated his birthday in a more sophisticated manner I would be staggered.
The next day we headed to Yaly, one of the more reputable tailors in town. 5 suits and several shirts between us had us toing and froing over the next few days for measurements, fittings and adjustments. In between fittings we had good food and wandered happily in a splendid setting. There were two further expeditions; one to My Son, the ruined site of a Cham temple complex with which we were much taken; the other an excellent Vietnamese Cookery course (look out for hand made rice paper and fresh spring rolls if you dine with us soon after our retrun!) I was particularly pleased to have my knife work complimented by the chef.
The morning of the paternal grandparents’ departure arrived too rapidly, but we were all amazed at how much has been crammed into their time with us.
Favourite expression since we arrived in Vietnam? A waitress explaining the varieties of pancake on the menu when we asked for help: “Same same, but different!”
Introducing a Guest Blog (Grandad)
From Interlopers determined to gatecrash Elliot’s 8th Birthday: We didn’t know of WOW Factor years ago but this year what our Wonderful Children have shown us underscores the meaning. Seeing Jake jump metres from the edge of a Lao waterfall into a swirling blue opaque pool; hearing Elliot explain the basics of a Buddhist temple; exploring by kayak near an underground cave that outstripped imaginings in splendour; TOO MUCH FOOD AGAIN, but all delicious. Over to Mary: “Ditto!”
Advertisement
Tot: 0.074s; Tpl: 0.033s; cc: 8; qc: 23; dbt: 0.0317s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1mb