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The Old Copper and Lumber Store
The only working Gregorian dockyard in the world- so cool! There was a break in the weather and it looked good for traveling, so we set sail for Antigua- the yachting capital of the world. On our first day of the trip we decided to stop in Dehais, a small anchorage on the north end of Guadeloupe, to rest for the night. Then we awoke at dawn the next day and continued our journey. We arrived in the southern end of Antigua by late afternoon and had to decide where to anchor, either Fallmouth Harbour or English Harbour. These two harbors sit side by side and are separated only by a small isthmus in the center. Everything is within walking distance from either anchorage, thus the choice depends on what you want your view to be. Fallmouth Harbour is the main base for the superyachts of the world, which is a quite a spectacle. However English Harbour is one of the most famous British harbors in the Caribbean and has been beautifully restored, so is like anchoring in a historic monument. So it was a tough decision but in the end we decided to anchor in English Harbour, just off Nelson’s Dockyard.
Due to its strategic location, English Harbour was
The Old Boat House and Sail Loft
Exploring Nelson's Dockyard, like stepping into the past. deemed the main British naval station in the Lesser Antilles. Construction of the port and dockyard began in 1723, and the majority of the buildings were made from the ballast stones from the British supply ships. In 1784 Captain Horation Nelson was named the Commander of the Navy and was stationed in Antigua. Thus the dockyard in English Harbour was named after Nelson, one of Britain’s favorite naval heroes. Nelson left Antigua in 1787 to return to England and become Admiral Nelson of the British Navy. Unfortunately Nelson’s Dockyard was later abandoned in the nineteenth century and eventually destroyed by hurricanes in 1928 and 1950. But as fate would have it, British Commander Nicholson sailed into English Harbour in 1947 and helped revive this famous port. With the help from Friends of English Harbour foundation, Nelson’s Dockyard has been fully restored to its former glory and is the only working Gregorian dockyard in the world. Today, there are over 15 square miles incorporated in the Nelson’s Dockyard National Park. The Naval Officer’s House, which is where Captain Nelson lived, is now a museum. The Copper and Lumber Store is now a hotel. And the Officer’s Quarters are now a restaurant
Clarence House
Clearing into Customs and Immigration in Antigua. Love the olf bricks and ballast stones, not to mention the beautiful hydrangeas. and jazz bar. In fact, we even checked in to Antigua at the old Clarence House. It was fascinating to walk around the dockyard, to see the old Boat House and Sail Loft, and even have a beer at the pub where Captain Nelson and his men would drink. It is like stepping back in history- very cool!
Just as famous as Nelson’s Dockyard is Shirley Heights, the military complex that was built to protect English Harbour in 1781. Situated at the top of a lookout, Shirley Heights has a commanding view of Antigua’s southern coast. Most will agree that it is the best view in Antigua. Today there are ruins of the old Royal Artillery Barracks and Blockhouse. But the real reason to visit Shirley Heights is for the famous parties on Sunday nights. The festivities begin way before sunset. As we pull up in our taxi, the whole scene is almost overwhelming. The bar-b-que is smoking and the delicious aroma makes our mouths water, live pan music is playing with that beat that makes you want to shake your booty, and the crowd is in full swing- enjoying it all. It is a fun night for sure,
Jen
Don't blink, or you might miss the green flash. Geesh! but of course the highlight is watching sunset. The view is unparallel to anything we have seen in the islands so far. We all gather on the edge of Shirley Heights and take in the natural beauty; the God rays that illuminate the sky as the sun drops behind a cloud, the pastel colors as everything changes from pink to violet, and of course the grand finale- a green flash as the sun dips into the ocean below. Amazing! We see why the Sunday night party up at Shirley Heights has become a Caribbean institution. So we join in the celebration, the pan music is replaced by a live reggae band, and the view changes to complete darkness with only the lights of the city below. But wait- we are mistaken! As we look closer we realize that the twinkling lights are not on land, but on the water, and are coming from all the hundreds of megayachts in Fallmouth Harbour. Holly Cow- is that impressive!
Actually, impressive is almost an understatement for the grandiosity of the yachts in Fallmouth Harbour. Antigua is synonymous with yachting and some of the biggest superyachts in the world spend the winter months
Shirley Heights
Jen enjoying sunset at Shirley Heights, with about 100 of her closest friends! here. In fact, we quickly find out that the s/v Maltese Falcon is in port, which is the largest sail boat in the world. So the next day we take the opportunity to walk the docks in Fallmouth Harbour to get a closer look. And oh my gosh- it is amazing! This 289 foot clipper has 3 masts with 15 separate sails and looks like a modern version of a square rigger. Standing next to it almost takes your breath away. Not only does it have all the newest technology and elegant furnishings, but it also has all the toys like water-skis and dive gear, 4 laser sailboats, and of course its own submarine. Yes, a submarine! Interested in going aboard? It is available for charter, for a mere $500,000.00 per week. Screaming deal, eh? Actually the crew on board said that the only people who can afford to charter right now are the Russians, and of course a movie star or two (we heard that Tom Hanks was onboard at Christmas time). Crazy! We had a blast walking around and admiring all the megayachts there in Fallmouth. It is like no other place we have been. Antigua certainly leaves
Sunset
Such an amazing sunset- and undoubtedly the best view in Antigua. Hey, look down in the harbor, can you spot the Rum Runner? an impression on you and lives up to its reputation as an island where history and sailing and parties go hand in hand.
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margie
non-member comment
next stop?
Hi, I am trying to figure out which island to meet you on--just dreaming--what is you itinerary?I know its hard to plan a schedule when you are at sea.Keep up those logs and have fun,Margie