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Published: January 1st 2009
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Briefly: My last nights in Laos were on an island in the Four Thousand Islands area of the Mekong. It was a great place for biking and relaxing, and though the Irrawady dolphins can be seen there, I did not see them and opted not to take a boat trip as I heard it was anticlimactic (fin in the ditance breaking mud colored water). I then spent 10 days in Cambodia split between Siem Reap (the temples at Angkor Wat were amazing and photos will be posted once I get that capability again) and Phnom Penh which I also really enjoyed (planned for one night just to get my visa, but stayed 4). Cambodia seemed like it had a lot to offer, but with time as a concern and my desire to get out of a tourist laden area I decided to head for the Mekong Delta. I spent 2 nights in Can Tho, where I visited a floating market (also some nice photos to come soon).
...My plan was to visit Ben Tre (a province/island on the Mekong Delta) on the 23rd, with hopes of spotting some cranes or storks that are alleged by books and websites to be
at a nearby bird sanctuary, and then head to Saigon for Christmas (Eve). However, I couldn't find much relevant information beforehand, such as what time of year the birds were here, so I was not at all surprised to be told "no birds there" when I arrived. However, I already knew I was going to like it, because I was the only non-Vietnamese on the ferry ride over. Immediately after departing, I was approached by what seemed like the only option for a guesthouse...though I usually opt to stumble around town and make my own decision, the actual city was a 10 km bus ride and this guy offered me a ride with the incentive of free bike use (Sold!). It turned out to be near the ferry dock and thus about 10 km from the city which was ideal for me, since I didn't want to be anywhere near a city at the time. I came here to see some freakin birds!
My "plan" also had me leaving Can Tho at 8 am, giving me most of a day in Ben Tre to putz around. In practice, I had to wait until 11 because my laundry was not
yet dry (I had dropped it off the previous day at 5:30 am, was told it would be ready by 4, and the sun was blazing all day...you can see how I would assume it would be done before 11 am the next day). This is par for the course, and I wasn't too surprised, but when I got my clothes back (most still not dry) I noticed they had decided to give me free large yellow spots on a shirt and pair of shorts (strategically located right in the seat). I should also note, for some curious reason I had lost my voice that day, not that they would understand me anyway, but with a few careful gestures I was able to get the laundry for free (though less than $2, I was expecting to still be charged...lucky I didn't pay beforehand).
But I digress. So after a quick shower to cool off, I grab a bike and head to where Phat (owner of the guesthouse) claims there are some birds (~11km away). The road is 2 lanes wide, if you consider a lane large enough for a motorbike, and is lined with small houses, shops, and farms.
I soon realize that every single person I see is going to say "Hello" and giggle, so I respond likewise. It surprisingly doesn't get old, but maybe I was just in a good mood. A few kilometers down the road I am hailed in to a soccer match (I was wearing a Polska jersey...so they immediately assumed I would play), and storks be damned, I could not refuse. It was a 5v5 match on a sand pitch surrounded by high netting to keep the ball at bay. This isn't the first time playing since I've been here, but this is the farthest south I've been and the sun was still high, so my out-of-shapeness was magnified. An older man came out and blew a whistle to end the game about 2 minutes after I began plotting how I was going to go get some water without looking like a complete wimp. Phew! I was wiped, and opted to spectate rather than run in the second game.
Riding around later, I was stopped and offered some food and drink This became quite common...after returning a hello to group of people, if you stopped, they immediately made a seat available and
offered you whatever they were eating and plenty of rice or banana alcohol. Usually one person would know a few words in English, and names, age, nationality were common questions. I'd also get to try some words I knew in Vietnamese as well as learn some new ones. Marriage was also a common one, usually followed by the pointing at of me and than the nearest girl...nothing better for a confidence booster. Viet nam also beat Thailand in soccer for the first time in 10 years, and a few days later won the Suzuki Cup (soccer tourney with a bunch of SE Asia countries) so more drinks (MOT HAI BA...YO!).
On Christmas Day, I went for a long bike ride around the island, and when I paused at a church holding service, I was immediately whisked in and given a seat. The timing was impecable...not 10 seconds after I arrived, everyone said Amen, and it was time to eat. The pastor greeted me and took me around, and I was fortunate to sit next to a man who lived in the US but was visiting his family for the holidays, so I was able to ask lots of questions
and get some translation of what others were saying. The meal was great, and I was given an invitation to their daily volleyball game.
The food has been pretty good, though at one house we were at, they showed us a roasted leg of dog. Not sure I would knowingly try that (Did eat some fryed tarantula looking spider in Cambodia which was delicious). I found an amazing vegetarian soup for about 40 cents a bowl, that became a twice a day habit for a bit. Morning, mid-day, and evening were marked with iced coffees, often taken with group of guys that I'm pretty sure raised roosters for cockfighting (I missed witnessing an actual fight because I had thought it was at 10 at night but actually it was 10 in the morning, but I saw some photos from another guy who went...blades are attached to speed up the process and the loser becomes dinner).
Ben Tre was just what I needed. After six nights there I traveled to Saigon. Plenty of war museums and also got to crawl through some tiny tunnels that the Viet Cong had used (hundreds of km of them, extremely cramped, and people
spent years of their lives in them). America is definitely portrayed as a war monger (tough to argue with, but you also don't see any mention of refugees and dissidents). Overall, I really liked the city, albeit there are some 10 million people, most of whom drive a motorbike (thus crossing the street is a bit like crossing a river of motorcycles). I decided to go to Mui Ne, a nearby beach city, for NYE. Big party on the beach, nice weather (Saigon was getting occasional downpours), the best fire twirling I've ever seen, and met some nice folks who smuggled in booze. Spent today getting rid of my farmers tan and splashing in the sea...over 2 months here and this is the first time seeing the ocean! Unbelievable.
Hope everyone had a good Christmas/New Years...stay in touch!
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Red Panda
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Tarantula
"(Did eat some fryed tarantula looking spider in Cambodia which was delicious)." Spider, it seems you have resorted to cannibalism. Please advise.