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Published: November 9th 2008
Laxmi Pooja
office shrinesalut! hello! hallo! hej! hola! ciao!
The past two weeks were very exciting. Wait.. I should maybe not start all my entries like this. But, well , they were very exciting. Had another excursion to the centre of Mumbai in one of these lovely trains. It really sucks not understanding Hindi, because I was waiting on one of the platforms where the 'quick' train to churchgate was supposed to start, but they changed the platform and I got the slow train. Was okay though.. had a newspaper and loads of music.
Part I: Partying.
On my last trip to the centre, I took a stupid route - seeing the university, high court, oval ground, prince of wales museum and gateway of India - and missed out on one of the biggest tourist attractions which was supposed to be on my route: the flora fountain. So my first stop was there. Was actually quite nice, enjoyed watching about 50 crows taking their midday bath and they were not minding the hordes of Indian and foreign tourists taking shitloads of pictures. From there, I went east - looking for a book store as I still haven't bought the lonely planet India and I
wanted to buy some other books ( you know.. for pleasure reading). After having a little chat with a paan vendor (I've become a big fan of paan) I found a church, it was labelled a cathedral if I remember right. A bit further on, I found this green haven called horniman circle. It's a small park which has been renamed about 4 times and it seems to shut out all the noise of the city. There were locals, sleeping on the benches, chilling on the grass, studying on some of the stone tables, couples walking around, children having fun on the playground etc. I stayed there for over an hour as it was becoming hotter and hotter and I well enjoyed the cooling shadows and as all of you know: I love peoplewatching. I didn't find a bookstore and as it was getting too hot I decided to go walk to colaba and to sit in a cooling bar, the bars on colaba causeway are very famous amongst tourists, hawkers and pickpockets. I wanted to go to this specific bar called Leopolds because it was the main hangout of the main group and I loved the book so I
Workers
these dudes order lunch, prepare tea and coffee, clean and so on! just wanted to see it (book is called 'Shantaram' by 'Gregory David Roberts' and if you should ever think about going to Mumbai please read it before you go). On my way there I walked past a sports bar which is also quite famous and I felt like having a small lunch, beer and watch some football. I really really missed football (yes, missed! why? read on, you'll find out later), so I sat down ordered a local dish (forgot its name) and watched the premier league highlights before I decided to go to the Leopolds. I wasn't what I had expected, but I well enjoyed myself and I really like the bar. Loads of foreigners and a kind of flair which is perfectly described in the book - the waiters aren't as friendly as in other places which means that I finally found a place where I can pour my own beer!! whoop - and I just really liked the flair of the bar. As I was alone, I looked around seeking other people who were alone and who I might chat to. There were two (sadly guys): one a bit older then me, looking like a traveller and
Workers
@ office another one about 10 years older than me who looked like a guy whose been to Mumbai for a longer while, I wanted to find out more about places to go so i sat down with the traveller. He was German and sadly he arrived on that very day. He had no plans for the rest of his trip, he just knew that he was heading south the next day. This probably means Goa and he'll probably get stuck there haha. As the conversation was dying out a friend of mine called and said that we should meet up at juhu beach and have a couple of drinks - thanks Sam, you really saved me. On my way back this dude was trying to sell me maps (a hawker) but I told him that I don't need any as I have one already, so he decided to chat to me and invite me for a chai (= tea). So we sat down talked about loads and decided that we like each other and promised that we would meet up on the weekend so he can show me some cool bars and nightclubs. So then went on to juhu beach and
got pissed with Sam, good times.
On the weekend I met with Raj (the map seller) at churchgate and I thought that we would go straight to a bar, I was wrong. He took me to an Italian restaurant but we failed to get in because while we were still outside smoking a cigarette, I was trying to chat up this french girl and we decided to walk with her along marine lines. So we walked and walked and talked and talked... and it was too f*cking hot. At the end , I think, Raj and I were annoying her quite a bit because she suddenly said 'Okay, I'm gna get a taxi from here..' jumped onto the road, took a cab, and she was gone. Chatting her up is probably wrong - we were making casual conversation and I thought that having a girl amongst our party was probably not to bad. But well. So Raj and I ended up in this bar, it was packed and stinky so I told him that I wna go back to Leopolds and have drinks there. He was a bit upset about this as he wanted to show me new places and
told me that I shouldn't go to the same place twice as Mumbai has shitloads of cool places to hang out. But he failed to name one (he is rly rly polite) and as I wanted to go to Leopolds he tagged along. I was too lazy to walk all the way back (would've taken at least 30-40 minutes) so we took a cab - yay my first cab ride in Mumbai, all the taxis are way old Fiat's and they're well cool - but drove past Leopolds. I was really confused but Raj explained to me: 'Tim, I know this area and if there are a lot of young boys and men standing in front of Leopolds it is not a good idea to get out of the cab because they'll just try to steal your wallet and sell you stuff'. So as we were walking towards Leopolds he stopped and said that I should go in first and that he would come in 3-5 minutes. When I asked him why he told me to act like we're friends from way back and he told me to trust him as he knows this area very well, he grew up
there. So I walked into the absolutely packed Leopolds and as there were no free tables one of the waiters directed me to a table where a dutch couple was sitting (they were in their late 40s I would think) and Raj came after a while and we ordered some beers. The bar was packed with 'alternative' tourists and I decided to test Raj's tourist knowledge and asked him to name a country for some of the tourists. There was this big group sitting next to us, they were the first: He said that there were probably some Danish, English and Swedish. So I walked up to them and asked them where they were from, surprisingly there were 2 Danish, 2 Swedish, 1english and 2 Norwegians. HAHA. Raj is quite cool. It is weird. Norway has a population of 4.5 million and there were two Norwegians sitting at the table right next to us.. But I haven't met any Norwegians in Canterbury. The girl was stunning. I loved they way she dressed and she had a well cute smile, if I would've been on my own I would've sat down with them but I couldn't leave Raj alone at the
table so I went back after a little chat. (Oh yeah.. for the Norwegian readers, they didn't know 'Hæ dæ vekk ditt spøkels, æ pulæ itj for småpeng' f*cking imbeciles :D (and yes, I can't write Norwegian very well)). When Leopolds was closing Raj decided to show me his hood. He lives in Santacruz (which is a suburb close to mine) and as we both were hungry he took me to his favourite Chinese restaurant. This was the first time I didn't take the train in the first class compartment. It was weird, everyone started talking to me asking me about my knowledge of Bollywood actors and films and telling me who their favourite Hollywood actors are - Tom Cruise was far up the list with everyone, but why oh why? The restaurant was on the street, some long tables and benches. He ordered some kind of rice dish for me with some kind of chutney.. f*ck me, it was spicy. But I finished the whole plate bravely. He then helped me to get a good price for one of the rickshaws and the night was over.
I went out on Tuesday night to check out this cafe. I had
heard about the cafe from a girl who I met with her father in my local bar (Soda). Had a good evening with them and she(very beautiful girl, although she seemed a bit young) told me about some bars and cafes in the area where it's easy to meet people. So I went to this cafe called 'Barista' and I thought it was gna be some chilled out lounge place, but it actually was a place which actually looked like every other starbucks or costa. Loads of people though.. After chilling there for some time I decided to go to Soda. Weirdly enough, they had a proper bouncer there and some chick was standing at the entrance with a Guest list. The bloody bouncer wouldn't let me in although I told him that I know the owner and bla bla. He still sent me away. But the owner saw me and ran after me and invited me to come in, it was a private party for the launch of their new menu - there were loads of 'stars' from the Bombay fashion week and actors and directors and such. Drinks were on the house and I got some food for
Church
or cathedral. or something free as well - finally they stopped playing Bon Jovi and Bryan Adams and instead played some house and lounge.. that was suitable for the bar.
The next big night out was on Wednesday: Although I was quite tired after work I decided to go out. There is this dude who I met at the alcohol shop a couple of weeks before and who always greeted me and invited me to have a drink with him on the streets, 9 o'clock. When I was at the meeting place at 9, he wasn't there. So I went on to the bar called Soda. There I sat at a table all alone (as usual) and had some beers and food. On the next table was a group of girls with 1 guy. At the beginning 3 girls, then 4 , then 5. And I was alone. When I just got up to leave one of the girls invited me to chill out with them and so I sat down and drank their beer. They were all from the TV industry and well pretentious. They said that they were only in the bar because they were real broke (read on and you'll find
out why people get broke in this city) and that it was a crummy bar. But I like the bar, everyone is real friendly and they change the music for me sometimes when I walk in (from Bon Jovi and Bryan Adams to lounge). After a while another girl joined the group and she wanted tequila. As I was drunk I felt like ordering a round of Tequila. But the bar had run out on the night before, so I talked to the manager and I bought a bottle of Tequila in the store right next to the bar and yeah.. well, quite messy. Was fun though - and now I know that I can wake up the next morning without a problem and be productive at work. I bought some Aspirin (4 rupees for 20 pills!!!) the next morning but I didn't need them.
Friday morning I read in the newspaper that Infected Mushroom were playing at the club in the mariott hotel (most good clubs in Mumbai are in a hotel), so I decided to go. None of my friends were free that evening but I thought that I couldn't miss out on that. Well, f*ck me, I
Horniman Circle
Walking towards the middle am not going clubbing again. It is horribly expensive. I bought a pack of cigarettes before, but once I walked in I had to hand it over along with my lighter. Then I walked past a group of bouncers with a drug dog (watch out druggies, don't ever take drugs along when you go clubbing in Mumbai), and had to pay 1500 rupees for the entrance ticket (1200 rupees being 20 euros). But I really wanted to see infected mushroom so I thought it was okay. When I walked in and wanted to buy a drink I was told that you need to buy tickets. Then I asked for the price of a Vodka bull, the barman told me they had no red bull, but this other pomegranate energy drink called cloud9. He told me that a Vodka cost 800 rupees and the energy drink 300. W00t!? Almost 20 euros for 1 drink? Ts. I was thirsty and wanted to get a bit drunk before Infected Mushroom came on as I am a very shy person and normally don't dance when I am alone. Also, I wanted to talk to some girls and alcohol helps these conversations quite a bit,
non? I ended up spending way too much on these coupons (as my parents are reading this blog as well, I am not going to say how much exactly :0) .. ). So the gig was amazing, the alcohol was flowing and the girls were beautiful. But they all had boyfriends! How bloody frustrating. As I was just about to get my last drink, I met this guy who apparently paid '8-9 lakh' to the bar prior to the event. A lakh equals one hundred thousand. So he offered to buy me drinks and he got me a very large black label coke. It's insane how rich the rich in Mumbai are, I think I was the poorest person in the whole club. Oh yeah.. about the cigarettes. Since they took my cigs away when I entered the place, they had this little stand there selling cigarettes at incredible prices. Bloody rip-offs. This was my last clubbing night in Bombay, I am gna stick to bars from now on.
Part II: Free time, not partying.
As there was a holiday last week, the office celebrated. They had this holy man (something like a priest) come in and set up
a small shrine in the office for Diwali. So let me explain Diwali: Diwali one of the two new years in Hinduism (the other one being right before the summer monsoon when the harvest is sown). Diwali is all about one goddess called Laxmi. She is the goddess of money and wealth, so all the businessmen go to the Laxmi shrines and get their books blessed so they will be successful until next Diwali. So the shrine (as seen on the pictures) consists of a small statue and the people in front of it lay down some money and then throw some rice and colours on it and pray for whatever they want to, well being of their families, a successful business year etc. . After that everyone got called into a big conference room and some games were played. It also involved a little catwalk thingy. You had to walk down the length of the room and do a cool pose, turn around and walk back - I had to do one of those walks as well, beautiful Swati (co-worker of mine) accompanied me, was all good fun. As Diwali is the festival of lights, and fire crackers are
Horniman Circle
Ah, what is written on that thingy? a main part of the festival, we had a big display at the office and everyone enjoyed it loads. One of my bosses (I've got 4 people who I refer to as 'Boss', my direct boss, Sr Vice President and Head of HR and the two owners of the company) invited me to his house on the next evening so I could see how Diwali was celebrated in Indian families. It was well chilled out, I met his mother (again), his wife, his daughter and his son. They were all really friendly and I got some really nice food. At Diwali, neighbours pay each other a visit and bring some food and they get candy for it and so on, me being the guest of the house, I had to try almost everything - real good candies and pastries and stuff. For the main course we had masala chapathi (chapathi is like a kind of Indian bread, like a pancake but not sweet and the masala indicates that there are potatoes involved) with some kind of fried veg ball thingy, tasted very good. I ate so much, as everyone was always pushing me to eat more and they loved it..
Horniman Circle
thats interesting! but I didn't mind as I wanted them to be happy and the food was good. Then we went up on their roof terrace and we set off rockets and other fire crackers, was rly nice to see how an Indian family celebrates Diwali and I hope it wont be my last Diwali - I heard that it was quite big in London and Paris, so I think that I am going there next year for a little vacation!
Yesterday I went to see the new James Bond, well enjoyed that. It's a pretty good film I think and I'm probably going to see it again.
So you think... this is a pretty short section, what does Tim do in his free time? Well, I mostly walk around different areas of Mumbai (in the suburbs) just to see the normal life on the streets, see how people live, eat, drink and laugh. I know this area (Versova, Ssart (seven) Bangala (Bungalows), Andheri East) pretty well I think and there is loads to see at all times as the life in India happens pretty much on the streets. So I just hang out, enjoying chai (tea) and paan (basically a
Horniman Circle
I didnt want to take too many photos... everything was just so peaceful there. leaf with loads of nuts and other flavours in it that you chew on for like half an hour and then swallow, I really got to like it. When you are in India, you will see red spots on the ground everywhere, these are from the paan juice that everyone spits out (some swallow it as well)).
I probably forgot to mention shitloads of stuff as I can't remember in this moment everything that I have experienced in the last two weeks - sorry guys. I am going to try to write down some more stuff on a more or less daily basis so I wont forget about telling you.
See, here are 2 more stories, I forgot about them, took a piss and remembered them haha. So the other day I wanted to buy some new shower gel and I went into the only super market in the area (most shops here are like little stores who have everything from potatoes to biscuits and paperstuff and so on) and looked around. Didn't see any body wash but Axe, so -with a sigh- I picked up a huge plastic bottle of axe and hoped this would last me for
Horniman Circle
This is one of the previous names of Horniman Circle. Thought it was funny that they didnt change the sign on the building when the square got renamed. a while. When I was taking a shower that evening I opened it, and waited for the liquid to come out... but it wasn't liquid. it was POWDER. I mean like.. wtf? why? huh? I didn't understand. What should I do with it? rub it on my body and wash it off? No thank you. So I'm sticking to soap now.
And why I missed football and am not missing it anymore: The caretaker bought a satellite disc box thing. Now we get 250 channels. Some are English, you get four English subsections: English News (yay), English movies, English entertainment (BBC for example, I've been watching quite a lot of fawlty towers haha) and Sports. Sports is amazing. I watch some premier league games, champions league games (sadly not live because the bloody caretaker wants to go to sleep latest at 11pm and I would feel bad to keep him up)(watched Juventus vs Real the other day, great match - Del Pieros first goal was amazing, no!?), I even spotted a Bundesliga game the other day... So , now, every evening after work I watch some football before I go outside. This is very practical because it's bloody hot in
Horniman Circle
houses at Horniman Circle the daytime and it gets a bit cooler when the sun is down, also the streets are more lively.
So yeah. Bye.
Oh yes: Sorry, no German translation this time... it would take too long and I am lazy, so if you don't understand some words: Dictionary.
Updated Song list:
Rancid - Poison
Pantera - Walk
The Knife - every song of every album
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Max Fieguth
non-member comment
Hey Tim
krass chilligs blog, hab leider bis jetzt nur die ersten paar eintraege gelesen. Wenn ich zeit hab wirds nachgeholt. Ash interessiert sich auch sehr fuer deine erfahrungen, sie ist ja in mumbai geboren und oft dort. Selbst bin ich immernoch in london, muss mal schaun wann ich auf ein projekt angesetzt werde, koennte aber ueberall sein, krasseste moeglichkeiten sind panama, UAE, Qatar, Las Vegas! und n paar nich so tolle gegenden... nach indien will ich auch umbedingt bald, vielleicht klapps im sommer... wie lang bist du noch vor ort? machs gut! max