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Published: November 26th 2008
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There have been many times passing for a local comes in dead handy. It means I'm targeted less by crooks and touts. If I don't say much I can usually get a good deal on things. Border officials let me pass unmolested.
Um.
After dealing with customs in Venezuela and the draconian measures in place in the United States, I figured if I needed a stamp someone would stop me. So at 4am, bleary-eyed from another swell overnight bus ride, I wandered across chained border roads, nodded and said "hola" to the soldiers there, hopped in a shared taxi and was boarding the bus to Quito when I politely asked my taxi driver where the customs line was.
His wide eyed response was the same that I give folk in DC when they've stumbled into the not so touristy parts.
I am an illegal.
My taxi driver got me back to the border and told me to walk back the way I came and not to speak to anyone. He'd picked me up because he thought I was Ecuadorian (how?!??!) and that I didn't need the stamp. Luckily sneaking back was easy too, though I
swear those soldiers wondered what the hell I was doing back so quickly.
Ecuador
I'd traveled down to Quito to meet with one of the fellows I met during my 2006 South Africa trip who convinced me long term travel is possible (even for us bloody Americans). Liam (last name withheld to protect his dubious honor) is possibly the most traveled fellow I know and most politically savvy as well. I still have a great time asking him random questions to see what he can pull out of his ass (last time it was a complete treatise on Cuban vs Chinese Communism...fun stuff).
We proceeded to have a blast in old Quito exploring the Old town and dodging would be robbers in the new town. I was happy to find out that Liam is still fun, and full of all sorts of new tidbits of knowledge.
Like, for instance, did you know what you should
never take a precollegiate Englishman to an open bar?
After a night started with an easy going half bottle of rum we headed out an found a place where a $6 (US) cover charge would get you FREE DRINKS ALL
The real equator
This equator was located via GPS...it is around 200 yards from the "official site" NIGHT!!! I had a half caipirinha and a vodka orange juice. Liam had seven drinks of something. We left after he'd told on of our dancing partners that she was "incredibly boring" to her face. Ah the beginnings of a wonderful night.
After 4 more clubs (and the corresponding free shot of Aquardiente that comes with the dollar entry fee), I figured I better get my Englishman to the hostel. I, in typical Naa fashion, headed back out and met with a girl and her boyfriend who taught me where to get a 5am snack and that since I am a big black man, most of the robbers in the notoriously dangerous New Town would leave me alone.
Ah, it's nice to be considered a threat with no money.
Though the night was over the effects weren't as I promptly fell asleep on the toilet and Liam made a bit of a mess divulging himself of near 20 drinks worth of spirits. I'm just glad I moved my back pack from the floor...
A few days later after mentioning that the one thing I missed from the South Africa Trip was a Spot of Whale watching,
Balance
It is supposedly easier to balance an egg on a nail. I am so awesome I coulda done it on the Anti-quator.
Word. Liam told me that I was in the best place at the best time to view see some.
Puerto Lopez
I'd heard that Puerto Lopez wasn't the most beautiful of places. Whoever said that was a master of overstatement. The town was "blaugh" but since we'd come here to see whales and not sights, I wasn't in a mood to care.
for $50 we'd gotten a day trip to see whales and view what is dubbed as one of many "Poor Man's Galapagos Islands. Both places were uneventfully awesome (meaning I was able to see plenty of wild life, and no one was maimed.) Take a look at the pictures, but it is pretty much impossible to explain how delightful it is to see a 50 foot, 80,000lb animal launch itself out of the water. Even the DSLR wasnt fast enough to catch them at their full splendor.
Unfortunately the trip back wasn't as uneventful. Both Liam and I were victims of a rather professional bit of thievery where we were placed in the only place on yet another overnight bus without underseat blocking. Thieves stole both our cameras by reaching under the seat, opening our
Not a gypsy
She's a street performer, but I couldn't figure out what she was saying. bags and closing them so we didn't notice they were gone. If they'd tried to take or move the bag I would have woken since it was wrapped in my feet. The only spot of good luck was that I'd backed up my photos the night before.
The rest of Ecuador included an 8 year olds birthday party sans camera (fun as all get out), a trip down a portion of the once grand trans Andean railroad which was reduced to a rather sad Disneyesque ride where my mp3 player disappeared and wandering through pretty Cuenca.
I figured I better get outta Ecuador before I lost my underwear and socks too...
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gloria
non-member comment
thanks
Hey Naeem, Thanks for sharing yourself. God has given you such a voice. I sat down to my e-mail today, Thanksgiving day, and what I found myself doing was reading all of your blogs start to finish, previously only having read two. I feel you. Thanks. Sorry about the camera loss; theivery motivated by poverty gives perspective on the comparably posh lives of even our poorest here, huh? xxoo, Gloria