Advertisement
Published: November 25th 2005
Edit Blog Post
Kia Ora from New Zealand! In lazy, British fashion, it's the only Mauri word I've learnt so far, so don't be too impressed. I've only been here a few days and I'm already realising the majesty of this country's natural environment. Auckland city region is covering in 2 things - boats (known as the 'City of Sails', Auckland has more boats per population head than any other city in the world) and volcanoes. Stretching out to sea are little volcanic clumps everywhere. Naturally, I felt I had to climb a couple, both on Devonport, a quaint little island north of Auckland Bay. Up top, I got an awesome view of the harbour, surround islands and the Auckland skyline, which looks similar to Toronto's - being on the coast and having its own version of the CN Tower. On descending back down, I treated myself to some traditional New Zealand cuisine to take away, and ate my fish and chips watching the sunset over the harbour.
Ok, so that's a slightly romanticised view of Auckland, but it is set in a beautiful coastal setting despite housing a quarter of New Zealand's population. The journey over consisted of a 3-hour flight, 1
hour rush, 3 hour flight, 6hour wait (that passed quickly because of an awesome phonecall, you know who you are), 8 hour flight, 1 hour wait and finally a 6-hour flight. So it's safe to say I was a little tired by the end and running on adrenaline. But a guy called Jay kindly picked me up from the airport, and I couchsurfed round his for a couple of days.
For those that don't know, couchsurfing is the latest travelling phenomenon, whereby people offer their couch, spare bed or even just a floor, for backpackers to sleep on, for free. In return, these scroungers then return home and do the same for other travellers, and so it grows and continues. It's a cool system, and Jay showed me some places I wouldn't otherwise have seen, like a black sandy beach made entirely of iron filings, and decent local beer.
After a weekend in Auckland, also staying at a hostel that tries to be hip by placing televisions in the bogs (a slight contrast to Belize) and also seemed to attract a lot of twats, it was up north into Northland and the Bay of Islands. I could easily
have spent 2 weeks in Northland (north of Auckland) alone, but unfortunately ironically I don't have enough time. A couple of days was nice though, spent cycling (and err..walking with my bike) over hills along the coast, and sea-kayaking to some nearby islands. It was while kayaking that I decided to 'explore' round an island, only to realise once committed that it was 3 times the size I estimated it to be, and spent the next couple of hours kayaking against a strong headwind back round to the bays. My arm muscles still haven't forgiven me.
I ventured back to Auckland via Whangerei, for just one reason, to visit a 'nearby' cave meant to be full of glowworms. I was told by the hostel owner that it's better to pay for a guide, but you can visit them alone. Ah there we go...a challenge! With my manhood pride at stake, I walked off to the caves...and walked...and walked. 3 bloody hours later I finally found them.
Now it's one thing going with a tour group, on a lit path into a big cave with lots of people surrounding you. That's fine; I'm all for that. But seeing the
entrance to these caves down a small gulley of rocks, with a gaping black hole leading to nowhere, and water you can't see to the bottom of, in a dark wood - that's a different story. I nearly decided to turn back, before I remembered my "manhood pride" declorem, sat contemplating for 30minutes, swore profusely, and entered the cave. It took 5 minutes just to get down the gulley, and another 5 to muster the courage to take my shoes off and put my feet into the dark water, worrying what I would be eventually stepping on.
However, although freezing, the water wasn't that deep and I walked over rocks and into more pools, building confidence and ending up in a big pitch-black cavern. Nothing could have prepared me for what I saw. The entire place was sparkling like a night's sky - all around me, and rising 10-15metres above me everywhere. Little speckles of light calmly emitting from every wall. It was beautiful.
And then in the evening, the owner of a hostel took about 6 of us on a night walk, through a gulley-styled path, rising up with waterfalls and pools on the left, damp, green
walls on the right, and trees all around. Glowworms were everywhere - on the trees, by the water, around our feet, lighting up holes in the walls, everywhere. It was amazingly beautiful - straight out of a disney movie or like walking through Lothlörien (which doubtless will not be my only Lord of The Rings reference these next 2 months). I've never seen anything like it, and the pictures I have are a grain of sand in comparison. He also showed us freshwater crayfish, and many weta living on the walls of an abandoned gold mineshaft (do they know something we don't?). Meant to be the largest insect in the world, they have very long spiny legs, are deaf and completely harmless. They were so ugly, they verged on being cute.
Finally, we learnt more about the native Kauri tree, which can live to over 2000years. It's a unique tree in that it has a self-cleansing process. It's constantly stripping off its bark, to get rid of all the moss, creating a scaley appearence. According to the Mauri, legend has it that the Kauri trees and whales were friends. One day the whales said to the trees "we're going
to the other side of the world. Would you like to join us?" But the trees declined their kind offer as their roots were now firmly held in the ground. Thus, as a parting gift, so the trees would not forget the whales, they swapped skins. That is why today, the whale has skin as smooth as a tree, and the Kauri tree has fish-like scales of bark all along it.
If that bored the crap out of you, sorry - I thought it was a cute little tale. Overall, stopping off in Whangerei for the day was a great decision. Passing through Hamilton, I now head to egg-smelling Rotorua and Lake Taupo, stopping off at Matamata (Hobbiton) on the way. Tune in next week to see Simon test his manhood a second time, by jumping out a plane at 12,000ft. Photos will be coming in about 12/24hours hopefully. Tara and much love, Simon x
Advertisement
Tot: 0.045s; Tpl: 0.013s; cc: 8; qc: 24; dbt: 0.0235s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.1mb
Callum
non-member comment
Manhood
Mate, I have jumped out of a plane at 12,000 feet but I know for a fact I would quake at the idea of walking for three hours and then take my shoes and socks off and go walking into a dark, flooded cave on my own. You want to watch out on the testing your manhood stuff, it gets you into all sorts of trouble! Keep on trucking!