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Published: November 15th 2005
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Temple of the Great Jaguar
Temple 1, temple of the Great Jaguar Writing this, ahead of me I can see a local tourist attraction for Belizians - one of only 2 sets of traffic lights in all the country, fascinating I can tell you! Which is next to a wobbly, old suspension bridge that you risk your life on every time you cross. I'm in a busy little place called San Ignacio, which translates from Spanish as 'The Island', highlighting its remote nature in the Macal River Valley. Been relaxing here for a few days, learning Spanish, getting lost in Jungles and drinking lime juice that's nearly as good as Singapore's.
I survived the pirate-island of Caulker one more day where no amount of doggy paddle stopped a tidal current washing me out to sea, before snorkling back inland. I became a pupil for an evening by hiring a kayak guide and learning more about the effects of hurricanes on the island and the habitats of wild seahorses. It's remarkable how seeing a creature so small can incite such wonderment.
Then to the music of the Ride of the Valkyries, I speedboated back to dryland and the familiar sound of 'taxi?', and went south to the Cocksomb Jaguar Sanctuary, passing through
Cocksomb Wildlife Sanctuary view
and Victoria Peak. Sorry for crappy photo - crappy computer connection. the lazy town of Dangriga for the night, where it's "good evening" from 2pm, and "good night" from 6pm.
Now here's the thing; this little fella isn't overly fit at the moment. Exercise this last year consisted of cycling to Uni (before my bike got stolen), 4 games of squash and 2 press-ups. So when I decided to save on a hefy taxi fare and walk the 6 miles to the sanctuary on a jungle road in the sun, with my entire rucksack, it was in hindsight, a mistake. Still, I need to get fit for New Zealand. By the time I arrived it was dark, and the solar powered lights had all but run out. Makeshift plain rice with apple, by torchlife was meal of the day, and I don't recommend showering in the dark if you can help it.
Waking up early at 5, I went for a walk to see if I could spot any big cats, by alas, the furry-felines were no where to be seen. But I walked up to a viewpoint, giving me a panoramic over the entire jungle with Victoria Peak in trhe distance, claimed to be the tallest in Belize
(another mountain some clain is 4ft taller). A breaktaking sight! This was followed by a cool down in a waterfall plunge pool where I was awarded with a small black blob on my leg. My first leach. Perfect time to test the toothpaste technique, with success, woo!
From there, it was country-country to here, San Ignacio, the highlight of which has undoubtedly been the last-minute trip into Guatemala to Tikal, an Aussie traveller and I decided to do. We had a taxi arranged for us across the border, so I can imagine that it was quite a sight when 2 white tourists with sunhats on, walked through customs surrounded by money changers and taxi drivers, holding up a piece of paper with the very Spanish name 'Gary' scrawled on it. We were hoping someone would recognise us amongst the laughter and tried keeing our cool, with the only Spanish phrase we knew "Beunos Tades", and whispering to each other "just smile back". All was good thought, and we eventually got to Tikal in the early with the full day to explore.
With Tristan working for the Aussie Government as an archaeologist, it was a day of nerdy conversations,
but Tikal is a place everyone must try and see.
As Machu Picchu was to the Incas, Tikal (at its peak around the 800s A.D.) was to the Maya. With 6 main temples, the highest at an impressive 65m, Tikal has another 4000 structures with only the main ones uncovered; the rest mostly mounds of dirt which the forest has sadly and without care, reclaimed back. It still takes a day to see what has been preserved, and imagine what the mounds of dirt would once have been like. Most can be climbed, and the view of the other temples jutting out of the trees to the sky, is literally, something out of Star Wars.
Speaking to a local Mayan, only a 1000 Maya live in Belize today, and althought they still speak the language, and act out their dances, the teachings of the Maya have sadly not been passed on. Not only does this mean they do not understand the meaning of their dances, or how to worship their 660-odd gods, but other mysteries about their incredible architecture and technological feats will remain just that, mysteries. For example, why was an incredible 1/2 kg of mercury found at the site, how was it obtained and what was it used for? With the Spanish Inquisition burning all but 4 texts, we may never know. History lesson aside (sorry), it was an intense day.
I head back to Belize City tomorrow, with joyous anticipation of a hefty 3-flight, 24-hour journey to Auckland, New Zealand. With bites on arms and legs, I was hoping I was going to get away from bitey creatures for a while, but have now heard there are these things called sandflies...hmm. New Zealand is the coutnry I've probably been looking forward to most, and although things are quickly booking up being peak season soon, I can't wait. Some hostels have free internet in NZ, so will try and reply to everyone who's sent me emails soon. This is Belize, over and out. All the best everyone. Si
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Danielle
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you're so british :)
good use of the word "rucksack" (hahahaahahah, sorry i had to) (and btw it's "buenos tardes") don't forget to wash your socks! <3 Danielle