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Published: June 29th 2007
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Jaisalmer Fort, Jaisalmer.
Jaisalmer Fort, Jaisalmer. So I headed 6 hours deeper into the ‘Great That Desert’ this time though the train ran with military precision., I was surprised at first, but when I look around I realised that I was the sole civilian in my carriage, crammed in with an entire Indian army platoon all heading for the end of the line, Jaisalmer.
However as Jaisalmer is the last Indian stand before the Pakistani border I shouldn’t have been surprised. When the train came to a stop, I got off, fell in line and headed for the bus station with the rest of my platoon, only to find out that this bus was for actual, not pretend soldiers. So I waited for the next civilian bus, it arrived around half an hour later, but I was just laughed at when I tried to get on, apparently I should have known that by 7:00 am there is only ever room left on the roof. So I climbed on the roof and headed for Jaisalmer Fort with the other 300 or so passengers on this bus.
The ride into town was great though, the view of the impending fort from the roof of the bus was
Gilmar, Desert Safari, Jaisalmer.
Jilmar, Desert Safari, Jaisalmer. incredible, despite hanging on for dear life as we made our way along the jarring desert road. After I arrived at the Fort I headed for the main gate, and inside to a guest house called ‘Simla Lodge’ This place was amazing, consisting of only three rooms, all situated inside one of the remaining ninety nine original fort battlements. Staying here was probably at the disapproval of al the eco tourists, but to turn down accommodation inside the only functioning 12th centaury Silk Road fort, was beyond my resolve.
Jaisalmer is one of the last significant bastions in the Rajasthan region. Founded on what was the crossroad of many lucrative trade routes, this remote settlement fort is often referred to as the “Jewel in Rajasthan Crown”. As you approach the fort, it immediately commands attention, carved from sandstone, harboring a royal palace, temples and hundreds of period buildings and havelis, all dripping with infinitely intricate carvings and motifs. This golden yellow sandstone fort crowns the 80 m high Trinkuta Hill.
Its old city walls, amazingly still defended nearly a quarter of modern Jaisalmer.
Seen from outside, the sight must be almost identical to what was seen by merchants
Sam Sand Dunes, Great Thar Desert.
Sam Sand Dunes, Great Thar Desert. on their overland camel caravans to central Asia. Jaisalmer’s strategic position on these camel trade routes, between India and Central Asia have, historically brought it great wealth. But the rise of shipping and the major international port in Mumbai resulted in Jaisalmer’s relatively recent decline. Moreover the cutting of the trade route with Pakistan further sealed its fate as a major power in the outer reaches of the Indian realm. However this perhaps has added to its timelessness, for as I walked through the antique narrow alleys of this, the exclusive living fort in the world, it truly feels as though you have been transported back to a different age.
I spent the first day in Jaisalmer, getting lost in these, very intricate tangle of lanes interwoven with local sandstone homes, restaurants and shops. But the Fort wasn’t the only reason I had headed toward the Desert, I was really interested to see how life existed further out, so I organized a camel and a guide for the next day.
The next morning I was up early, ‘avoiding the heat’, as I was going on safari for a few days. Firstly I took a Jeep
Me On The Dunes, Thar Desert.
Me On The Dunes, Great Thar Desert.(Behind is Pakistan) an hour further into the desert, where I met both my guide and my camel. After all the pleasantries, I hopped on ‘Jilmer’, my camel, and headed off into the Desert. Initially Jilmer and I had a little power struggle, but after he bit me! We decided to do things his way.
The Thar Desert is truly amazing, born under water in the Jurassic period; it is still as barren and rocky as the deepest sea floor. Yet it is a beautiful and mesmerizing place, hour after hour of arid serenity. The bewitching monotony of the desert broken only twice, by the thunderous roar of Indian fighter jets patrolling disputed airspace.
That day we stopped for lunch at a small oasis, in the shade of a native cassia. After a traditional Indian meal and a traditional Indian snooze it was off toward the ‘Sam Sanddunes’ to spend to night. The trip toward the dunes was mesmerising, the unrelenting heat, the silence and the continous golden sand, dulls your senses. But still with each approching horizon, waves of anticipation swelled over me, wondering what would be on the other side.
We reached the dunes in time to set
Thar Desert Village, Jaisalmer.
Thar Desert Village, Jaisalmer. up camp, feed the camels (bonding time) and watch the sun go down before dinner.
Sitting under the stars with a small fire, Jaisalmer well behind us and Pakistan only spitting distance away, well maybe for a camel, was my most peaceful, and perhaps enjoyable Indian experience to date. The desert erased many of my perceptions; I was unsure of the time and unsure which direction to head. I must have enjoyed the crisp night air for hours before I fell asleep under the stars, on my camel blanket (smelt great).
The next morning again running on desert time, we were up having breakfast as the sun rose. We made a three man procession toward some desert villages, camped for lunch and arrived back, an hour outside of Jaisalmer around dusk. In the Jeep on the way back to the fort we passed scores of wild camels and I think I saw a desert fox.
It was back to Simla Lodge for the night, where I found the Argentineans I had met in Jodhpur. I decided to return their hospitality Australian style, so we ate dinner and I loaded them up on Fosters Longnecks (70c AU).
The next day, slightly worse for wear, I spent the morning within the ‘Royal Palace’ at Jaisalmer fort. Due to the heat softened sandstone, this palace is heralded as the most intricately carved in all of Rajasthan. It was fascinating to walk through and gaze down upon bustling bazaars and all manner of life, seemingly unchanged for hundreds of years. I really enjoyed my whole time in Jaisalmer, and will be sad to leave, but this afternoon I have a train west to Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, from where ill make my way south to Mumbai.
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Mike
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I'm heading out to some of those same parts in month and It's nice to read your fresh take on things. Thanks for the reports.