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Published: June 26th 2007
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Meherangarh Fort, Jodhpur.
Meherangarh Fort, Jodhpur. I headed for Jodhpur in Western Rajasthan, wanting to see what desert life is like. So I boarded the train prepared for a rather arduous 18 hr journey. But the thing, you see with the Indian rail system is that it runs on Indian time! So somehow my 18 hr journey transformed into a 27 hour one. This left me with plenty of time to get through, cover to cover, of the copy of "The Catcher In The Rye" which I had until now had never found the time to read.
Anyway I arrived in Jodhpur around 8:30 well prepared after killing the last couple of hours with my trusty Lonely Planet. I headed for Haveli Guest House, boasting an architectural heritage of some two hundred and fifty years it sits just inside the old city walls of Jodhpur and commands the most stunning view of the Mehrangarh Fort. So after stowing all my things in their smallest and cheapest rooms I was off to wander through the Medieval Sardar Market. This was quite surreal, as I wandered through the old sandstone market buildings, the entire horizon was dominate by the Mehrangarh Fort, it was spectacular bathed in moonlight and
Old City view from Meherangarh Fort, Jodhpur
The Brahmin Blue of the Old City. View from Meherangarh Fort, Jodhpur. I was looking forward to seeing it up the next day.
Jodhpur is an ancient city perched on the edge of the 'Great Thar Desert', and its history mostly revolves around the Mehrangarh Fort, sitting atop a 150 m high rocky outcrop, its sprawl ensures it is regarded as the most formidable and magnificent fort in Rajasthan, Rao Jodha of a feudal warrior clan founded Jodhpur in 1459 and the fort shortly after, subsequent rulers however have added to it over the centuries. Just outside my guesthouse starts a narrow and meandering road, which leads the whole five kilometers to the main gate of Mehrangarh Fort. This, the main gate still proudly boasts the battle scars of canon ball hits from many attempted sieges.
The hike up to Mehrangarh was sublime, catching glimpse of the dramatic red walls spying down at you from small spaces between the traditionally tiered Indian homes.
The Fort itself was astonishing, I lost myself it for most of the day, amazed by the architectural ingenuity; the massive robust fixtures that join the Fort to the rock are only outdone by the unbelievably intricate lattice work of the royal quarters.
Situated on
Meherangarh Fort Walls, Jodhpur.
The impressive architecture of the Meherangarh Fort walls, Jodhpur. the edge of the desert though, needless to say it was hot, around 47 'c, this meant I was either; the only one brave or silly enough to tackle the heat, in turn I found myself alone wandering this amazing structure, sitting on the impenetrable fort walls listening to the myriad of desert sounds that form silence. Whilst gazing down upon the Old City precinct, I was further mesmerized by the soaring white-backed vultures which scavenged the fort grounds and nest on its inhospitable walls.
The old city is most indicative of ‘the blue city’ of Jodhpur, growing out of a geological anomaly it is an extraordinary city, a blue cubist mass surrounded by 10 kilometers of 16 centaury defensive wall. This scene has probably only improved with age, even though the walls have crumbled, the city may be at its bluest, as traditionally the blue signified the home of a Brahmin, a member of the priest class, but non Brahmins have now joined in which has only added to the aesthetic pleasure of looking down upon this sea of blue abodes.
After spending most of my day, lazily strolling through the Fort grounds, I decided that a
Giant Indian Vulture, Meherangarh Fort. Jodhpur.
Giant Indian Vulture, Meherangarh Fort. Jodhpur. trip back to the Sardar Market for some Rajasthan style Chain was in order. That though was enough for one 47'c day.
The evening brought with it cool air and more people, which resulted in me dining with a couple from Argentina, and as the conversation inevitably careened toward each others travels, they reminded me that India was just as famous for its…. ‘herbs’ as it was for its spices. Moreover that they had stumbled across a huge ‘herb’ plantation as they trekked through northern India. So we spent the night on the rooftop restaurant laughing, talking and munching Indian baklava! Under the gaze Jodhpur’s timeless sentinel.
The next morning I broke out the faithful Vegemite for a dose of Australia, checked out and headed for the ‘Old Town’ of Jodhpur.
I spent most of the day drifting through the narrow, paved medieval alleys that intricately mesh to create the older section of Jodhpur. It was much more human here, gone were the hawkers and the sales people, and it was nice to unobtrusively watch life continue, which seemingly existed independent of the tourist trade. I found a great rooftop for lunch. And after a Paneer Tikka Marsala and a saffron Lassai, which, mind you I paid for later! I watched both the waiter and the chef pull out some rudimentary mattresses from the corner of the restaurant and lie down for a nap. Again it was around 45’c and that I thought a siesta was a great idea, so when in Rome (or India)….. I too settled down, in the shade under the table for a few hours shut eye.
Tonight I’m heading for Jaisalmer, further west toward Pakistan, my train leaves at 11:30 pm and will apparently travel west for around six hours, but we’ll wait and see
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