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Published: April 5th 2007
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HONDURAS
From Tikal, Guatemala, we traveled south to Copan Ruinas, Honduras. Named for the once great Mayan City that sits just outside of town, Copan is a lovely town surrounded by lush rolling hills and green tobacco fields. The ruins are a 15-minute walk from town - it was such a relief not to have to take a bus or shuttle. Although our visit was very enjoyable and we really liked the town, the ruins do not compare to the grander of Chitzen Itza and the surroundings cannot match the jungled maze of Palanque or Tikal.
From Copan we took an all day bus to Tela, the magical beach town in my mind. Based on Internet research, I had imagined Dave and I lounging under palm trees at the Mango B&B, studying Spanish and soaking up the Caribbean charm. The town: not so much charming as run down and sketchy. Our Bed & Breakfast: although there was a bed in the cell-like room, somehow the breakfast was lost in translation. We had decided to hit the road when we found the Maya Vista Hotel. Set on a low hill a few blocks from the beach, it had a
great view, an outdoor restaurant and plenty of hammocks. From our porch, the town did look charming after all! We ate delicious seafood, swam in the ocean and did nothing for three days.
EL SALVADOR
From Tela, we took three buses, four cabs and brokered a ride through the Salvadoran Red Cross to get to Suchitoto, El Salvador. Since Tikal, our route through Central America has been asinine, taking us from one coast to the other in an exaggerated, sideways S. Fortunately, we ended up in a great place to celebrate DAVE’S BIRTHDAY! Our guidebook described Suchitoto as “Antigua, Guatemala before the tourists arrived.” Indeed, the town is very charming and we saw only one other tourist.
El Salvador is best known for its long and bloody civil war and the history of violence is evident in this quiet mountain town: a large scale over La Balanza restaurant balances an unexploded bomb that hit the town during the war against a stack of tortillas; “Paz es Mejor” (peace is better) commercials fill the airwaves; and, murals and pictures commemorating activist Monsignor Romero, who was assassinated mid-sermon in 1980, cover the walls. What I will remember most about
Highlight of Copan Ruinas
There are intricately carved hieroglyphics on each step describing hundreds of years of Copan's history. El Salvador though, is its remarkably friendly and engaging people.
In San Salvador, the sprawling capital, we celebrated Dave’s b-day again with dinner at “hands down, the best restaurant in the country” according to our guidebook. It was fantastic, a wonderful way to celebrate and a nice balance since we were staying in what had to be, hands down, the worst hotel in the country - right above the bus station.
We received a great surprise on Dave’s birthday: the birth of our nephew Trevor William Call. Congratulations Amy, Justin and Addy!
NICARAGUA
In Managua, Nicaragua, our sightseeing took less than an hour as the central plaza and monuments are clustered together and completely depressing. The area was deserted, the heat was oppressive and the lake smelled. Given its location, along a huge lake and surrounded by volcanoes, Managua could be a great city to visit, but instead it is a maze of thoroughfares and disconnected neighborhoods.
We’ve had such good luck on this trip that the first real downer was when Dave dropped his guitar on a tile floor causing the top to split in two. Rather than going to a music store, we
Birds of Copan
These guys were hanging outside the gates of Copan Ruinas. We think they were drugged. fixed it with glue and rubber bands. This band dies hard.
The next day, we took a shuttle to Granada, the famed, charming colonial town. Charming indeed: Shady central plaza? Check. Cobblestone streets? Check. Colorful colonial churches and palacios? Check. Nicaragua. Check.
We decided to just check the box on Costa Rica and Panama as well, since we spent time in both countries during our honeymoon. So, a bus ride, a 5 hour border crossing, two flights and viola! South America. Columbia. Cartagena.
COLUMBIA
Cartegena exceeded all of our expectations and has become one of our favorite places from this trip. It is a vibrant Spanish town that happens to be in the tropics. The narrow streets wind around courtyards and churches and the brightly painted houses have balconies overflowing with flowers. Founded in 1533, the old town is surrounded by huge stone walls that were built to protect the city and its wealth from pirates. The town’s beauty, amazing seafood and great music make it an unforgettable and highly enjoyable stop.
Next up Ecuador!
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Dave
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Let's play ball.
Although Emily lists many of the charms of Cartagena, she neglects to mention that it is a baseball town the first place we’ve encountered that puts soccer on page 2 of the sports section. Our hotel has about 20 channels and four of them were showing ball games. It’s hard to leave.