Day 21: R&R, New Boots, Rain Expected And Kenny Taylor !

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My lazy day in León started with another attempt at making the pack lighter. I threw out a small torch, some irrelevant paperwork, and donated the charger given to me by the hotel in Burgos, to this hotel in León. It might total 500gms.

I turned on the TV to the news that Barcelona has major floods, and the rain is due here tomorrow. It was always just a matter of when.

I decided this morning my boots were probably not going to survive the rest of the Camino, as I thought they would. The black vibram soles were worn thin on the heals, and I was now walking on the next layer of soft grey rubber. This is not made for walking, just cushioning your steps.

I know you are meant to ‘walk in’ a new pair of boots, so I spent ages choosing a pair that may not need it. The worst case scenario is that I’ll look good in pain. Walking shoes were an option but I couldn’t find any that felt right and I wasn’t risking it.

The new boots are Italian, have a GT stripe down the sides, so I see no reason to worry.

The Cathedral is now €6 to visit so all I can say is the cloisters in the chapel next door are ornate, and display the history of Christianity in León, commencing in the times of Caligula, in the 1st Century. The church is worth the €6, but maybe not if you’ve visited twice before.

I met up with 2 young Swedish guys that I met days ago, and while they were telling me about their days, the German woman I left in Fromista, to carry on to Población, joined the conversation. The Swedes broke off to talk to more people they knew, and it seems that’s how the Camino goes. People are in and out of your life on a regular basis but are always happy to catch up.

The Plaza Mayor, or Main Square was always on my agenda, and I stumbled across the travelling market that moves from town to village, selling clothes, food, nicknacks, and rubbish.

It was a vivid sight of colour and action, with one lady trying to make her sock stall exciting, men selling fruit and vegetables competing with a dozen or more lookalikes, and as the rain began, another lady madly covering her goods so the bras didn’t fill up. To be honest, it would require a heavy downpour over a period of time to achieve that, not that I noticed. Sorry, not her bras, but the ones she has for sale.

Four white vans completed the range, selling bacalau fish, salamis, jamón and other smallgoods, cheeses, and bread and pastries.

The market folk are always in high spirits, and a life that I think would be hard, with moderate rewards, seems to suit this travelling band of vendors. It’s a tradition that dates back generations, with young people work alongside their elders as apprentices, picking up all the lines and learning how to eke a living from it.

My next destination was the bus station. I’m not intending on walking the 8.5kms through León suburbia, I’ve been there, done that, so a bus to the point where the natural paths start will allow me to walk an extra 9.6 kms to Villavante, shortening the long walk into Astorga the next day. There’s a good albergue there , so I’ll reserve it tonight.

Walking back to the old town , I decided to call into Bar Valkiria, a charming, dark timber bar with strong coffee and tempting pastries. And that was my intention. Sue, Tim, and I visited 4 years ago and I thought I’d do it for old times sake.

I was no sooner in the door and I eyeballed Kenny Taylor. He was there with 3 accomplices, and it was too late to turn back. Just joking guys.

My afternoon took a turn for the better, all plans went out the window, and I was soon at a table for 6, enjoying a meal. Well, that’s dinner sorted.

Ken was starting a week later than me, but due to unforeseen circumstances, had to skip the Meseta, so here he was. What a freaky lineup of circumstances. I’ll see them all from now on, maybe not tomorrow, but certainly in Astorga. You just can’t trust Ken not to appear when you don’t expect it.

Back in the room, I’m just sorting out the mess I’ve made, preparing for tomorrow, and will pop out in a while for a last stroll in León; for ever maybe, but I never say never.

See you tomorrow.

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Photos

The Bird Key
I remembered it straight away. It’s not easy to lose, and not easy to carry.

The Breakfast Room In The Posada Regia
It was a full on buffet breakfast, with a little lunch for those with big pockets. Not me though, I just know.

Out With The Old, In With The New.
Only time and kilometres will tell whether this was a wise purchase.

Cathedral Doors, León
I’ve seen it before, but worth the €6 entry if you haven’t been before

Original Paintings
They depict biblical scenes from Christ’s time.

Just Breathtaking
Pictures don’t do it justice. If you consider the tools available at the time, it’s astounding.

Typical Alley In León.
They twist and turn. Getting lost is simple and sometimes you stumble onto a gem.

The Antique Constitucion Building
Providing a perfect backdrop for the bright market stalls

The Pilgrims Foot
Can be seen randomly placed in the old town.

León The Lion
At the Bridge as you enter the city.

The Date In Grass
It’s someone’s daily task.

Martin, Mike, Steve , Kenny, and Mark
Circumstances just brought us together in this bar.

Comments

[Alan & Evelyn Ellis]

Your trip
We have been enjoying your blogg and photos, amazing trip

[sherrys]

Storms tomorrow
The next few days the poncho will get a run, I think. If it rains, I walk. It’s not an option. Glad you like it