Puno and Lago Titicaca

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We left Arequipa on Monday 13th headed North for Puno (on the shores of Lake Titicaca.) Bus journey as ever was not exactly luxurious.... 3 hours in, Rachel develops the need for the toilet. 3hours 5mins in, Rach discovers that toilet on bus is locked. 3hours 10mins in, Rach taps on driver's door to ask for the key. 3hours 15mins, no response from Snr Driver and bus pulls over in the middle of nowhere. Rachel gets off and enquires "¿donde esta los baños por favor?" (where are the tolilets?) Driver responds with a wide hand gesture over open pampa. "¡Aqui!" (here!) 3 hours 25mins rachel crouches behind a couple of stones in full view of the bus.....

All adds to the experience!

Anyway, after said nasty journey, we arrived in Puno which sits on the southern shore of Titicaca and serves as a small fishing port and a mid-point between Cuzco (for Machu Picchu) and Bolivia to the southeast.

Puno itself is drab and uninteresting, the main reason for visiting being the "Uros Islands" which are floating reed islands on the lake inhabited by the "Uros" people.

We took a boat from Puno dock to the islands and it was amazing to get off the boat and step onto spongy reeds which actually have little huts and even a school on them! They showed us how they made them (apparently they are 4m deep and as the underside rots they replace it with a fresh layer of reeds on top) - see photos.

After our trip to the reed islands we visited the "Yavari Project" which is an old (the oldest on the lake) steam ship built in England in 1860, disassembled and then transported by ship to Peru and then by mules over the Andes to lake Titicaca (12000ft up) It took them 6 years to transport it!!

The project aims to restore the vessel to it's former glory and when we arrived we were lucky enough to be given a tour by the rather well-to-do current owner who's family apparently owned the original construction company. Very interesting indeed (at least Chris thought so!)....I did too! Just not so sure about the "fly-wheel" and other technical details?¡?¡?

Anyway, after 2 nights in drab Puno we left for Cuzco on a "6hour" (turned out to be over 8!) "economica" bus journey....yuk yuk yuk. The thing stank and this wasn't helped by the family sat behind us changing their bambino's nappies at regular intervals. Now in Cuzco (are enrolled on a week of spanish lessons starting on Monday) - Juando will be impressed! Going to Macchu Pícchu on Saturday and will probably leave Cuzco a week on Friday.

Love to all. Update soon. See pics for better explanation as usual!

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Photos

Lunch (at altitude!)
We bought these crisps at Arequipá (2500m) and by the time we reached Puno (3800m) the bag had doubled in size - such is the difference in air pressure!

Juliaca
On the way to Puno we passed through Juliaca. This scene is pretty typical of Peruvian towns that don't attract tourists...

Pedal Power!
Instead of Taxis or "motos" these pedal powered contraptions are common in some towns / cities. We both got on with all of our bags and the guy pedalled us to the bus terminal.... (Before you accuse us of being mean he approached us!!!!) Un Poco Loco!

Approaching Puno
This is the scene from the bus as we approached Puno along the side of Titicaca.

Puno and Titicaca
Puno is nestled in between the Andes and the Lake. Not a particularly pretty town but ok for a day or 2 stopover.

The Lake
Uros people make their money from tourists and fishing.

Reed islands
Approaching one of the reed islands.

Captain
This kid drove the boat all the way and back....

Island
It was a bit weird arriving, almost like we were intruding and we HAD to buy something. People were coming up to us begging as well.

Yum!
Not only do they live on the reeds but they also eat them! Texture like leeks but taste of nothing.

The Yavari
Built 1860 and is fully restored apart from the niggly bits which need to be done to meet regulations to allow it to carry passengers again. Amazed the govt is so strict considering the state of some of the cars and busses! They need another $500,000 if anyone's feeling generous and they're looking for volunteers to help out.

Corn
Kids come onto the bus at stops and sell food. The corn here is massive! The kernels are like marbles and taste of nothing but flour! Not sweet like at home and there's no butter just bad cheese :¨[

On't way to Cuzco
The only good point of the journey was the scenery..... it got a lot more lush very quickly.

Journey again
more bus-window pictures hence the chopping off of the people at the bottom.

Finally Cuzco!
Finally we've made it to Cuzco. It's very busy and surprise surprise there are PROTESTS!!!!!!!!!

Finally Cuzco II !!
The square here is amazing (Peru seems to do squares very well!) Just some quick snaps we took of Cuzco this morning. (Bad light!!!)

Comments

[mom]

Hi to you both. The reed islands sound interesting and the graphic details of Rachels toilet experience sounds like fun! Looks like you are still having a great time apart from the 8 hour bus journey. Take care and love to you both. Mom xxxxxxxxxx

[Nan and Grandad]

Photos
hi there both - have been following your travels with much interest - must say it seems quite an adventure. Keep the messages and photographs coming see you soon lots of love Nan xxxxxxxx