Blogs from Iquitos, Loreto, Peru, South America - page 6

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South America » Peru » Loreto » Iquitos December 12th 2008

This blog entry details our journey from Vilcabamba in Ecuador to Iquitos in Peru. It is not a very common route and is definitely off the Gringo Trail. Backpacking at its best! For other tourists, we have a summary of where to go, duration and costs below the bulk of the entry. The two of us and Darran left Vilcabamba at 7:00 in the morning on a bus headed to a town called Zumba close the the Peruvian border. This leg of the journey took us through beautiful green valleys and ridges. We stopped for a small brunch of rice, beef and potatoes in a village called Palanda. Palanda has a beautiful town square, filled with palms and other exquisite plants. It was rainy and misty and we passed quite a few remote settlements. Arriving in ... read more
Palanda, Ecuador
Palanda, Ecuador
Palanda, Ecuador

South America » Peru » Loreto » Iquitos December 4th 2008

I. Hate. The. Attention. From. Men. Here. Hate. I was told about, read about it, and thought I prepared myself for it, but, of course, it’s a whole different plate of objectification when you get here. And, please, let me explain exactly what it is: The most common cat-call is quite distinct - like an inwards suck-hiss. Hiss..yes, there’s a definite hiss to it. And I must say, this hiss-like sound adds to the charm of the calls… There’s also the “Allo-allo!, mi precioooosa!” - “Hello, my preeeecious!”, “Que guaaaapa, ” - “Hey sexy! ”, random yells accompanied by the inwards suck-hiss and other charming combinations. And these are constant -- walking to work early in the morning, walking home in the evening, without or with frien... read more

South America » Peru » Loreto » Iquitos » Amazon Rainforest November 28th 2008

Late morning on the final day aboard the Cabo Pantoja feels oddly like the last day of junior high in mid-May. For one thing, the sky is empty of clouds and the sun is out for the first time since we left Iquitos. There are only about fifteen passengers left on the top deck and, like the last day of school, there is an atmosphere of pleasant finality. Everyone is taking down hammocks, repacking bags, and getting ready to depart at one of the last few villages. With a good chunk of floor space opened up, kids are running around and playing - having finally been liberated from the impossibly confined torture of the first few days. But mid-May in the Midwest was never so hot and humid. The only ones not participating in the last-minute ... read more
The Cabo Pantoja at dusk

South America » Peru » Loreto » Iquitos » Amazon Rainforest November 27th 2008

On the fourth day, the grey, marbled blanket of clouds is still there and stretches out over the Napo sky. The jungle scene is still there and drifts past our field of view. At times, the series of tree clusters and small coves seems to be an exact repeat of what we saw not two hours before. It reminds me of some 60's Saturday morning cartoon where the animators reuse the same strip of five buildings over and over in the background while characters zoom along in a car. I am Fred Flintstone in God's own low-budget creation. But that isn't fair. The jungle wasn't designed for speed. You have to pass it on foot. Only then can you see every last leaf as a unique key frame in an endless sequence. The passengers are ... read more

South America » Peru » Loreto » Iquitos » Amazon Rainforest November 24th 2008

Rosencrantz: "We're on a boat." Guildenstern: "I know." Rosencrantz: "Do you think Death could possibly be a boat?" Guildenstern: "No, no, no. Death is not. Death isn't. Take my meaning? Death is the ultimate negative. Not being. You can't not be on a boat." Rosencrantz: "I've frequently not been on boats." Guildenstern: "No, no. What you've been is not on boats." Rosencrantz: "I wish I was dead. I could jump over the side. That'll put a spoke in their wheel!" Guildenstern: "Unless they're counting on it." Rosencrantz: "I shall remain on board. That'll put a spoke in their wheel!" Tom Stoppard - Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead Human Cargo With Iquitos behind, the Cabo Pantoja cruises up the river into the night. I stand at the front of the top deck and lean over the railing ... read more

South America » Peru » Loreto » Iquitos November 22nd 2008

Out of the Jungle In the morning, we have a breakfast of scrambled eggs and bread. Luis and I each have a tall glass of limeade as per the shaman's instructions. Later, after a failed attempt to search for pink dolphins in the Amazon with the Italians, we gather up our things and board the speed boat back to Iquitos. No one talks much on the trip. Luis and I mostly just stare out at the passing jungle - lost in thought. "Dammit!" I say, breaking the silence at one point. "What?" asks Luis. "Got a mosquito bite on my pinky finger." Luis glares at me. "You haven't put repellant on in two days, and you're complaining about one stupid bite?" "Well it's on the knuckle. It itches." "My whole body itches!" - Back in Iquitos, ... read more
The Jungle Lodge
Searching for Pink Dolphins
Belem

South America » Peru » Loreto » Iquitos November 19th 2008

So I made a survey for the youth in El Porvenir -- something to collect information about the youth population. The survey is meant to collect a bit of everything: basic personal info to personal attitudes on education and future dreams. And, hopefully, also pick up on any similarities/differences in attitudes between those in the youth group and those not (as this would be the basis for further qualitative, evaluative research on the impact Kallpa has had in El Porvenir.) Recently, we just finished up meetings about the plan of action for this research, and when/how the surveys should be distributed. ….Afraid yet I am going to write this blog all about the powerpoints, last minute scrambling to translate 16 page documents and three-hour meetings? Fear not! I do, however, welcome you to the sexy jungle ... read more

South America » Peru » Loreto » Iquitos » Amazon Rainforest November 8th 2008

Psychotropics in the Tropics One of the guides, Luis, Peter, and I get into one of the longer canoes - this one equipped with a small motor. We cruise up the narrow river away from the Amazon. Half an hour later, we tether to a small wooden dock and climb out. In front of us on the bank of the river is another small village. This one has a large clearing in the center - a sort of grassy village square where some children are kicking a soccer ball back and forth. Extending from either side of the clearing along the bank of the river are two sidewalks. We walk down the one to the left. Halfway down the shady path, we stop at a small house with a spacious porch. A man in his ... read more

South America » Peru » Loreto » Iquitos » Amazon Rainforest November 7th 2008

"Tienen linternas?" asks the girl. "Unh?" I reply, rubbing the dry mucus of sleep from my left eye. It's 8:30 in the morning. I don't speak proper Spanish until a full hour of morning consciousness has elapsed. A cup of coffee helps, too. "You have flashlights?" the girl repeats in English. This is Magaly - a girl we have seen working back and forth between here - the tour agency office - and the hotel. I think back to Colca Canyon where Ross, Anna, and I contemplated climbing the wall of a canyon without the assistance of artificial light in the wee hours of the morning. "I've been lucky without one so far." I look at Luis. "Do you have one?" "Nope." "Nope," I say to Magaly. "Well, you're going to need them. There is ... read more
Amazon Rainforest
Amazon Rainforest
Natural Insect Repellant

South America » Peru » Loreto » Iquitos » Amazon Rainforest November 6th 2008

Biodiversity. Noun. A sterile and clinical term, which in no way prepares you for full immersion into the throbbing and pulsating reality of the jungle, as it teems with a mindblowing multitude of minute to massive lives, living with and on each other. It is simply not possible for the humble human to appreciate more than a small portion of the complexity of this utterly unique environ. But to get into the middle of it is no mean feat, as can be seen from a map of Peru. From our launch pad in Chachapoyas, the options included: a long bus ride to the unfriendly and grotty little town of Tarapoto, followed by 3 days in a hammock on the back of a river barge. Unsure if Benj would go out of his tiny mind from inactivity, ... read more
Cruising
Arlene spots the monkeys...
Out and about on the town




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