Trekking in the Andes: The Lares Trail


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South America » Peru » Cusco » Lares Trek
June 1st 2015
Published: June 6th 2015
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Obviously coming to Peru I was keen to go hiking, and the only trek I knew about was the Inca Trail. Lots of other people are obviously in the same position, as it's by far and away the most popular trek, now restricted to 500 people per day, with permits selling out months in advance. So based on not a lot of internet searching I selected the Lares Trail as an alternative. It's a three day hike, ... Read Full Entry



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Inside a local houseInside a local house
Inside a local house

Beds are here, with their ponchos hanging up doubling as curtains. You can't see the guinea pigs underneath.
Nearly there....but what a very tough last climb!Nearly there....but what a very tough last climb!
Nearly there....but what a very tough last climb!

Julio our chef just ahead on the path



6th June 2015

A fine breakfast
RJ I loved this blog..a simple walk in the mountains..and I pictured you looking stylish and elegant at the end. I had never heard of this trek, love the way you always find the path less trodden.
6th June 2015

Not being able to do the Inca Trail and finding the Lares Trail was another blessing in disguise, really spectacular. I can recommend it for sure!
6th June 2015

I had never heard of the Lares Trail...
but it sounds better than the others. I like that horses carried the supplies rather than porters, although I wondered why they didn't use the plentiful llamas like the Incas did. And way to show up those young people! You really are doing South America the right way. I'm enjoying your blogs as usual. Machu Picchu next!
7th June 2015

The Lares Trail was a real treat, I definitely recommend it!
7th June 2015
The Lares Trail

All hail the victors...bit of rain & hail who cares
Bravo Rachael. The Sacred Valley by the Lares Trail...brilliant. I'm looking forward to the object of this quest...starts with the letter after "L" for Lares!
7th June 2015
The Lares Trail

Yes...Macchu Picchu coming soon!
7th June 2015

Altitude ...
You never know how it is going to affect you until you get there and, it's something you can't prepare for. Coca leaves, lollies, cookies etc, do help though. The two in our group who were most affected were the two fittest! Ted and I were fairly lucky as we mostly only had shortness of breath and some light-headedness . "Puff breaks" on the Inca came somewhere between 20 and 30 footsteps, depending on the steep terrain (and when your lungs felt about ready to burst) or, when someone yelled, "Porter!!" as they all had right of way on the trail as they carried all of the gear - food, gas bottles, tables, chairs, tents - everything. No horses - except "shanks' pony" (walking) - as the trail was too steep, rocky and rugged for them . Only the occasional llama. 500 daily on the Inca may sound a lot but, most days we had the trail pretty much to ourselves as people were strung out over long distances, all going at their own pace and nightly camps were staggered for groups so, we were never in a crowd. Have to say though, that the chefs and porters all do a magnificent job and, the spectacular scenery is worth every step and gasp of breath . :) Jan
8th June 2015

You are right, the spectacular scenery does make up for a lot, and I was so iimpressed with the porters and chefs, what a fantastic job they do. I am interested to hear that the trail didn't seem crowded when you were walking it, that is good to hear. I think it's a good thing that they regulate it so strictly. It is such a beautiful part of the world it should be looked after. This has definitely been one of my favourite trips!
7th June 2015
What a lot of llamas!

Oldies but goodies!
Bravo for leading the pack, undaunted by 4800 meters and able to enjoy the gorgeous scenery--true trekkers, you are! I love the little-visited Lares Valley--it's the real Peru without all the tourist trappings, and with children greeting you shyly rather than demanding a coin for a photo. And I must admit, that lunch you described was better than my daily fare. Well done!
8th June 2015
What a lot of llamas!

I would not say I was undaunted! I was very happy to have made it to the top, it felt very rewarding. What a beautiful part of the country, I am lucky to have seen it, plus have our chef the magician along with us!
8th June 2015

Trekking ....
Yours too. :) And yes, It is up to all of us to protect these wonderful parts of the world. You mentioned being the "oldies" in your group. Ted and me too, and we've got a few more years on you yet. :) Ted was 65 at the time and me - 62. A very special moment for us will always be when we finally arrived at the Sun Gate early that morning to see Macchu Picchu sparkling in the early morning sunlight (as if that wasn't special enough) with other groups already having arrived, when a much younger man came up to Ted and asked if he minded him asking him how old he was and when Ted told him our respective ages, everyone standing around just broke into spontaneous applause and cheers and then made a guard of honour for us by raising their trekking poles for us to walk through. (Brought me to tears, I can tell you) So, come on people - just get out there and to coin a well-known phrase .... "just do it!!" If we can - you can too. :) (PS And Ted had had a massive heart attack back in '98! )
8th June 2015

Wow, what a lovely memory! I do think age is but a number....it's up to us to stay healthy and vital so we can enjoy everything that there is on offer. Sounds like you are definitely doing that!
8th June 2015

Lares Trail...
LOVED this blog - I want more! I have been thinking that the Lares Trail would suit us more than the Inca Trail (when we eventually get to Peru), so I was hanging on your every word. I would most likely need a horse at some point too... but I would feel so bad for the poor beast :)
8th June 2015

Thanks Ren! The Lares Trail was a complete revelation to me, and I really loved it. You got to see so much of the local village life and it felt so untouristy. It was a lot more challenging than I had anticipated, however I am famous for not reading the travel notes, so I am sure you would be better prepared! I don't think you would get on the horse, poor Ben was very ill and he said it was absolutely terrifying and despite feeling terrible he would rather walk than be on the horse. I wish I could've had more time in Peru, but I loved it there. However Bolivia the same thing....I could've easily spent more time there. When you make it, go to both!
12th June 2015

Peru is picture perfect
Such a well written blog full of adventure and heart warming stories. Glad you found a great hike. The altitude can be tricky. Dave and I both took the medication and did well. One day Dave decided not to take it and lived to regret it. He went back to the drugs. We loved the Sun Gate in early morning! Mystic, magical and breath taking. The children of Peru are adorable.
13th June 2015

I was lucky, I was pretty good with the altitude, we didn't have the drugs at all. However we also had a lot of time to adjust as we had been in Bolivia or Chile at altitude for about 2 weeks prior and I think that made all the difference. The children were really adorable!

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