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Published: August 9th 2007
Inca trail day 1
Official start checkpoint (km 82). However we started a few km before this, at Chilca.I ran out of photo space in my last blog entry, and there was no way I was going to leave out the highlights of the Inca Trail/Machu Picchu. So here they are. It also gives me the ideal opportunity to say a bit more about this truly inspiring part of my trip. If you're only interested on the photos, double click on the first one then you can move through them like a slide show.
Day 1 - Chilca to Llactapata In a bid to avoid the crowds (which actually worked really well) we were taking a slightly different approach to the trail than most groups. This meant a relaxed start to our first day, with a visit to the town of Ollantaytambo to see the ruins and stock up on last minute supplies, and then a short bus ride to the village of Chilca. Feeling slightly nervous about what to expect, we joined the Inca Trail here (about 5 km before the official starting point) just before lunchtime.
Our first 5kms were fairly easy going, with beautiful scenery and a lunch stop on the way. We had a bit of a delay when we arrived at
Inca trail day 1
Scenery between Chilca and km 82 the checkpoint at km 82, as the staff appeared to have gone to lunch and we couldn't proceed without getting our passports stamped. However we were soon on our way again, climbing a bit this time, and with even more dramatic views of the surrounding mountains, and in particular the snowcapped mountain "Veronica" (5820m). Shortly after the ruins of Llactapata (an ancient terraced farming village), came the very welcome sight of our camp, all ready and waiting for us. Especially welcome as I had (no surprise really!) put far too much in my daypack and my shoulders were killing me. The porters had been there for hours and had been practising football on the neighbouring football field in preparation for our challenge match. After a quick wash and change (bowls of hot water were brought to our tents by the porters - real luxury!) the football began. Us visitors were doing quite well until it started to get dark and then it all got a bit scrappy. The official result was a draw, although I think we were lucky that we were saved by "Game's a bogey" (or the Spanish equivalent) being called just in the nick of time.
Inca trail camp 1
Our campsite at Llactapata I was starving after that and the delicious meal prepared by our porters certainly did not disappoint. Then it was straight to bed, hoping that I would not need to use the facilities during the night as there were numerous obstacles to avoid, and the high possibility of encounters with animal life, on the way to the toilet tent in the next field. With a clear sky and no light pollution the stars were amazing.
Day 2 (Llactapata to Llulluchapampa) Slept quite well, all things considered, although my down sleeping bag is not the super duper "you'll-never-be-cold" piece of equipment that it was made out to be when I rented it in Cusco. In the end I did need to use the loo in the night and found myself being stared at by the donkey "guarding" the toilet tent. However, thankfully it didn't seem to want to attack any intrudors to its field and I made it safely back to the luke-warmth of my sleeping bag.
After breakfast, some introductions with the porters and a stop at a "proper" toilet block a bit down the road we hit the trail again. This was the day the
Inca trail day 3
At 4,200m on the highest pass of the trek. "real" walking would start. The morning got us used to a bit of uphill then after our buffet lunch at Wayllabamba (delicious again) the afternoon was pretty much a constant uphill slog. However there was no rush so we were able to take our time and enjoy the magnificent views before arriving at our campsite at Llulluchapampa around 3.30pm. No football this time - our campsite was on a small flat area part way up a steep hill (the steep hill we'd just walked up) and in fact there was a precarious drop just outside my tent so I had to pray I didn't suddenly want to start sleepwalking during the night. However we had plenty of time to relax, have afternoon tea and admire the surroundings before dinner. A few shots of Pisco were also in order (just to counter the cold of course).
Day 3 (Llulluchopampa - Puyupatamarca) Didn't sleep well at all, due to cold and some very strange dreams (down to the altitude I think) so was half asleep all morning. Not the best start given that today was our toughest day of the trek, tackling not one but two high passes. The trail
Inca trail day 3
Ruins of Runkurakay. And the rock formation to the left is said to look like Queen Victoria with her veil on. Obviously nothing to do with the Incas! towards "Dead Woman's Pass" (thankfully not named in memory of perished trekkers, but because with a bit of imagination this bit of mountain looks like the face and chest of a woman lying down) was an unrelentling climb from our tents at around 3,700m to its highest point (4,200m). It was hard work getting up there, but the views from the top back down the valley were tremendous and we knew (well we thought) that the worst was out the way. I say that becuase the next section involved DESCENDING 700m of stairs (i.e. the 500m we'd just work so hard to climb and a bit more, which was pretty disheartening). And those stairs just never seemed to end. But end they did and the trusty porters were waiting for us with tea and snickers bars to replenish all those calories burned.
Lucky we had the extra energy boost (and I managed to fit in a quick power nap) because, having just come down all those stairs, the next stage was to climb back up to Runkurakay, our next high pass at 4,000m. This one was even steeper than the first, but along the way we had the ruins
Inca trail day 3
The ruins of Sayacmarca of Runkurakay and a section of rock which supposedly looks like the sillouette of Queen Victoria to divert out attention from the climb itself. Coming back down was a more pleasant affair, and as we descended we entered the cloud forest (stopping at some more ruins - those of Sayacmarca - which are perched above the trail with spectacular views) and hurried on to our lunch stop. Today was "Chilli Chicken day" - Dante had been raving about this particular dish all trip and so even if we hadn't been starving we would have been desperate to try it. And yes, it was very tasty, as was the rest of the spread.
As we left our lunch stop, there were hordes of porters from other groups putting up tents and hovering to grab our bit of space as soon as we left. All of the tents were really packed in and we were so glad to be carrying on to somewhere a little quieter.
Refreshed from the break we embarked on a third, but much easier, climb towards our campsite at Puyuputamarca (which means "town above the clouds"). This part was stunning with beautiful views of the forest
Inca trail day 3
Our camp at Puyupatamarca appearing out of the clouds (a long way down in places - glad I don't have vertigo!) and features like a tunnel carved through an otherwise unnavigable stretch of rock by the Incas. As we rose above the forest again, apparently the views of the nearby mountain ranges should have been fantastic but they were completely obscured by the clouds. So the place didn't quite live up to its name but I suppose we can't complain - after all we were only just above the cloud forest.
After our last camp dinner, and finishing the remains of the Pisco, it was off to dream about Machu Picchu (and maybe some nice views of the mountain ranges if the cloud cleared by the morning).
Day 4 (Puyuputamarca to Machu Picchu) The big day dawned...and it was still cloudy, so no nice views of the mountain ranges. However, I had my best night's sleep of the 3 under canvas so I was feeling a bit more energetic than the day before.
Descending past the nearby ruins (also called Puyuputamarca, surprise surprise) and on and on into the depths of the cloud forest, negotiating around 2,000 Inca steps, we eventually arrived at the extremely beautiful
ruins of Winay Wayna (meaning "forever young"). The Incas had tapped into water from nearby waterfalls, running it through the settlement in a series of canals, and this town acted as a place for cleansing and resting before carrying on to the sacred city of Machu Picchu.
We rested only briefly here - just enough time to have lunch - before continuing on the final leg of our pilgrimage. Tension mounted as we made our way through the cloud forest and up the final set of steps to Intipunku (the sun gate). Bracing ourselves for our first view of the ancient city we turned the corner...and were faced with a wall of cloud! However, Dante and Max (our other local guide) convinced us to be patient and, sure enough, as Dante cracked open the champagne he'd carried all the way along the trail for us, the cloud began to shift, teasing us with glimpses of the sacred city, although never quite moving fully out the way. A truly magical moment for all of us.
Descending further on the path towards Machu Picchu we moved below the cloud and had perfect views of the "classic" picture postcard vista. By
Inca trail day 4
Almost there, and all is becoming clearer this time it was mid afternoon and most of the crowds had already left, so we were able to calmly take in the scene without swarms of noisy tour groups getting in the way.
We were not actually "visiting" Machu Picchu that day, but merely passing through on the Inca Trail, so we headed on to the nearby town of Aguas Calientes where we enjoyed a beer (and a dance) with our porters before they took their train home and we checked into our hotel. We had a nice dinner but Aguas Calientes doesn't seem to be the most happening town in Peru - the nightlife was a bit of a disappointment. Mind you that probably was a blessing or we'd have struggled to see Machu Picchu the next day.
Day 5 (Machu Picchu) We took a bus back up to Macchu Picchu fairly early in the morning for a tour of some of the main sights with Max. The weather was a little dodgy to say the least, with a few spots of rain, but by 10am when some of us were preparing to climb Wayna Picchu (the big mountain in the background of all the
classic pictures of Machu Picchu) it had cleared up nicely. Headed up the mountain with Steve, Kevin, Howard and Dante. It was a steep climb, and quite hairy in places due to the narrow paths and steep drops. Apparently a couple of tourists perish in accidents each season - a good reason to hold on tight to every handrail that's going! Anyway, the climb was really worth the effort because the views from the top are amazing.
There is only one option for lunch unless you've been able to bring a picnic - and it happens to be the most overpriced cafeteria in the whole of Peru. We'd no choice but eat there, but luckily the food was nice, just a total rip-off!
In the afternoon we all had some free time in Machu Picchu before meeting to take the train back to Cusco. I spent a couple of hours wandering around the ruins on my own, reflecting on the journey I had made to get there, and the fact that in just a few days I would be heading home to the UK to find a job and get back to "real life". It felt so strange,
Machu Picchu - day 5
On the top of Wayna Picchu almost unbelievable, to be in Machu Picchu after seeing it so many times on TV and in magazines. It is a beautiful place with a very special energy about it, and has to be one of the few places in the world that actually lives up to its hype.
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