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Published: January 20th 2012
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VOLUNTEER POINT
Penguins in every direction THE FALKLAND ISLANDS
I had a 6:00am wake up to a beautiful sunny day. We are tendering to Port Stanley and the harbor can be very rough for the half hour trip, but not today. I dressed warmly as the weather can turn in a minute but for now it is beautiful. We are assigned to our 4 x 4 and met Robin, our driver and guide. She is a very young grandmother who works in the supermarket. She just lost 9 stone on a diet of chocolate, disco and vodka. It worked for her.
The first few miles were on tarmac. We passed a military contingent on a land mine clearing mission. Mines from the war are often found and well-paid volunteers from Zimbabwe, anxious to earn hard currency in a country where inflation is in the millions percent, do the heavy lifting. Among the emergency phone numbers listed is the Bomb Disposal Unit. There are over 3,000 military here as they know that Argentina hasn’t given up their claim to the Malvinas (now the Falklands).
Soon we are on gravel, washboard roads. In order to prevent speeding accidents, the government tore up the tarmac and replaced the roads with gravel, a truly dumb idea.
After an hour we arrived at the farmhouse of the family that permits us to travel over their land Volunteer Point. We have an hour ahead of us over peat bog and it was an adventure in itself. I have never been thrown around as much for so long. There were ninety-two vans, each carrying four passengers and we headed out in caravan. Only one van got stuck in the bog.
As we approached the shore a very large goose, a pure white male and drab brown female and the smaller ruddy-headed goose greeted us. Then a colony of Magellanic penguins, their burrows dotting the bog greet followed by a large colony of Gentoo penguins.
I got out of the van, stretched and headed out to see the king penguins. Only the Emperors are larger. These magnificent birds are fearless and allow us up close and personal. There are large crèches of chicks, gathering together for safety while mom and dad are out feeding. A Falkland skua and dolphin gull circle above, looking for a feeding opportunity. I wandered down to the shore. The water is Caribbean blue and penguins stand on shore. There is a seal out there and the penguins are waiting it out. They allow us to wander near them and we are respectful of their space. I stood still and one inquisitive king came within five feet of my feet. Everywhere I look there are penguins. The sun is blazing and it is about 80 degrees with a lovely cooling breeze. Here I am in my long underwear, a turtle necked t-shirt covered by a flannel shirt. In the van is my jacket, earmuffs, mittens, hand warmers and what I really could use is sunscreen.
After a box lunch and a final look at the penguins we head back over the tundra for the two hour plus trek back to town. We had a bit of time and so invited Robin to join us for a drink in the Crown Tavern. Many of my fellow cruisers were already there and I really enjoyed a refreshing Guinness.
Dinner tonight was a bay scallop cocktail, cheddar cheese soup and calves liver. There poker players were among the missing so I headed to my cabin for a welcome sleep.
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