Otavalo, the good and the bad...

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Here is the long awaited blog on Otavalo...

Otavalo is one of the "1000 places to see before you die", according to the book by the same name. There is a lot to talk about with Otavalo, and frankly some I liked and some I didn't like so much. I'll try to put a lot together in not too many words.

Otavalo's claim to fame is the Saturday market. Though there is actually a market everyday, Saturday is the big day. The indigenous people of Ecuador, whose name I currently forget, learned to do many crafts. Not the least of these is the intricate weaving on looms they created. Over the years, they would come to Otavalo primarily on Saturday to trade their wares. Their fame grew and today it takes up a full city block everyday and on Saturdays pretty much takes over the town. Sucre Street is the main street in Otavalo and on Saturdays not only does the square fill up with "artesianias" and vendors, but also most of Sucre Street. Indeed, Sucre Street is shut down on Saturdays for the market, plus every cross street for one block. It is all filled with vendors. Above and beyond that, there is also the Animal Market on Saturdays. This market isn't really geared to tourists, but anyone is welcome to go visit. It basically is an open area of grass and dirt/mud. Those with animals to sell bring their pigs, cows, bulls, lambs, whatever (though I didn't see many chickens) and people come buy whatever they want to buy. There are no fences and the animals are mostly on ropes to be dragged along as need be. The pigs tend to be the most vocal about the whole situation and are able to raise quite a ruckus, though you'll hear other animals too. Also note, if a cow/bull wants to go somewhere, the owner may be out of luck. Once the bull starts going, about the only way to stop him is to hope he runs by one of the posts in the ground and that you can get the rope tied to it in time. I did see this happen once while there, though I wasn't all that close.

Otavalo was mostly a good visit for me, but not all good. I took the bus to Otavalo, which is incredibly cheap considering what you get. Oscar, my original hostal's owner, got me a cab and that cab took me to the "special loading spot" for people going to Otavalo (and other locations, for that matter). That did cost me another 50 cents, or a total cab fare of $3.50 (well, it ended up being $4 with a tip because he was short on change - much like everywhere in this country. I was warned to bring lots of change and that advice should have been heeded. No worries, though, it was worth the friendly and caring service). I boarded a bus that was comparable to Greyhound and soon on my two hour journey to Otavalo. I originally thought that was too long a time to go just 60 miles, but on my trip back I did think about the fact it mostly twisty mountain driving. Given that situation and that there are various stops to pick up people and give street vendors time to board the bus to sell food and whatever else, it's not so bad. However, by the time I got to Otavalo, I had a headache from all bouncing around. I also then couldn't find the hostal I originally was going to stay so I ended up conceding and taking a cab for $1. It is interesting to note, however, the cabs on both sides totaling $5 cost me 2 1/2 times the amount of the 60 mile bus fare (bus for those 60 miles was $2, incredibly cheap). I got to the hostal and checked in. Now, I understand hostals are very basic, basic hotels and designed to save travelers money. I also understand Hostal Dona Esther is modeled on a "historic, rustic" feel. That said, I was completely unimpressed by the hostal, not something I needed when already not in the best mood. The bathroom to my room had a strong mold or mildew smell and the lock was something out of the 1800's. It did nothing to inspire me to stay. That said, I soon started looking for another place to stay, even though I said I'd tough it out because I already had paid for the night. I found a great hostal a block away and arranged to move there the next day. I did tough it out and checked into the new hostal the next night. About the only concern I initially had of the new hostal was the condom dispenser in the hallway. I was originally thinking, "Great...it's a relatively nice hostel and not terribly expensive because it's actually a whorehouse. I'm going to get a visit by an "amiga" later and if I don't pay to make up for the low price I'll get another visit by someone I won't consider an "amigo". However, later in the day very family-oriented groups were checking in and I put my fears to rest. It was especially calmed by the Bible study group in the community area of the hostal!

In any case, I started walking around to get a feel for the town. On Thursday - when I arrived - and Friday I was one of a very few gringos in town. Being a bit melodramatic from all my experiences up to the point, I kept replaying a song in my head. I first heard it when on ABC.com and the "Lost" page. It is a song by Brian McFadden (whose CD I ended up buying) and it is also called "Lost". The first lines are:“Have you been ever lost in a different world, where everything you once knew, was gone?”. Ultimately, it wasn't quite that bad, but once outside Quito and where more gringos tend to congregate, you really start being a lot more on your own. Very few speak English and, again, you are about the only one who looks like you. Once outside the businesses of Quito, you also start seeing more apparent poverty. I also had to start worrying about money myself. I have enough in my bank accounts but didn't quite transfer some from savings to checking in time so I could get it out of the machine when I want. Be sure to keep in mind, Ecuador (and I believe Latin America) is really a cash society. Besides not having the equipment at small shops to process credit cards, the commissions make it prohibitively expensive - from what I hear. Usually, the commission is 6-8%, as compared to 1-3% back in the States. It just doesn't make sense to take credit cards. Ultimately, I just had to wait a day for computers to update but it was still a little bit of worry.

After a nights sleep and a chance to acclimate myself to life outside Quito and pretty much everything I might know, it did get better. There was time to look on differences and not always see negative. It also helped when I was checked into my much better hostal which also happened to be $9/night cheaper. I finally had the chance to do site seeing and learning about opportunities in this town.

There's a lot to observe, so I'll try to be brief and lay out a lot. I wrote in my journal a whole lot more detail but this will give you some idea of life in Otavalo:

The market: lots and lots to buy, all very "handicrafty". All was reasonable quality and bartering is the norm. I did buy some items but not a lot. Obviously I have to carry everything I'm bringing, at least 'til I find a way to ship it. However, I did also talk with an export agent who could be a huge help in my business endeavors. I got his contact info and will definitely be in touch again. You will notice after a while that, while there are a LOT of booths/artesianias, it does get to be a lot of similar items. You'll have plenty to ponder buying, even if it does repeat somewhat. Better yet, it gives you bartering power. Don't like the price you have at this booth? Find it at another booth and buy it. That said, be sure to remember what is a cheap price to us is a lot of work to the people in these booths. Don't be a complete jerk, just bargain and barter and at a certain point pay the price if you want it. You'll still get a good deal and have great souvenirs or gifts.

and internet: In Otavalo, there are TONS of internet and/or phone booth stores. You will see "internet cafes" and "cabinas" (phone booths) stores everywhere. This is presumably how people use phones and internet in Otavalo; it's too expensive to have either in the home for most. It is also how I had to use internet as opposed to my computer. It obviously isn't free (though low cost, about $.75/hour and if you didn't use a whole hour you were only charged for what you used) and it is a public forum so you have to worry some about security on these computers. They are also terribly slow for my tastes to communicate information. That said, I didn't use them very much. There were fairly convenient for phone use, though, and not terribly expensive at $.10-.15/minute. I wouldn't talk for hours on end, but a few quick calls home were fine.

Noise: as is the norm (I'm told) in Latin America, noise is the norm and soundproofing in homes is basically unheard of). If you're a light sleeper, bring earplugs.

Gates and guns: Something I noticed more in Otavalo, though exists in Quito as well, almost every business has metal garage door-type gates they bring down every night at closing. If they don't have the metal garage doors over their doors and windows, it's going to be a metal gate across the front of the doors and windows. It gives a somewhat foreboding appearance but part of the culture. It shouldn't necessarily be viewed as everywhere is unsafe in Latin America, it's just the norm. Additionally, on the security vibe, I continued to notice in Otavalo every bank/financial institution and many stores had armed security guards (or police). Get over any objection you have to guns when you come to Latin America, at least Quito and Otavalo, because they are everywhere. However, I also have yet to really feel unsafe because of it.

Food and restaurants: While there are "authentic" restaurants, I was intrigued by the number of hamburger, pasta, pizza, and Chinese food joints. This undeniably is influenced by tourists, but I also saw mostly locals eating at most establishments. That said, I didn't eat very "authentic" while in Otavalo. I had pasta for dinner two of the three nights in Otavalo. You won't get confused and think you're in Venice from the dishes, but it wasn't horrible. The restaurant I went to was a little interesting...the first night offrered these experiences while dining: chilled red wine, a maybe nine-year-old girl as my waitress for most of my meal, and 80's American music on the DVD playing in the restaurant. It isn't often, I don't think, I'll be treated to dinner while seeing Mick Jagger not looking like death warmed over, Bon Jovi singing about putting some girl on a bed of roses, Lionel Richie singing hello to some blind girl, still seeing a Berlin Wall existing and being sung about in the idea of a wind of change, and Billy Joel singing his number one known song on a piano - while eating pasta in Ecuador. I did eat some authentic, though...lunch can be a great deal in Ecuador. Order an "almuerzo" where offered. It's a fixed lunch, there are no choices because the restaurant will make huge pots of food that is served to everyone who orders it. It usually consists of a soup starter, normally with some type of meat in it or made with it. It will be followed by the "main dish" which invariably include rice and usually beans. You'll usually get some meat, often chicken, plus a fried plantain and/or some type of basic vegetable. You'll get some type of fruit juice and often some basic dessert such as a fruit cup or Jello. It's pretty basic and not glitzy, but very typical and the best part is the price. The most I have seen paying is $2 for the meal, and usually about $1.50. I've usually left the $2 because I felt I was ripping them off if I didn't leave the $2. It's the way to go for lunch. Also, if you purchase a full breakfast, there's plenty of places you can go and get a full, hot breakfast for about the same price. Frankly, even in the more touristy, "higher-priced" dinners, you'll probably not break $8-10 for dinner with tip.

Bathrooms: Something I've noticed about Ecuador is toilet paper. Not really the paper itself because it's fairly comparable to back home but rather that you do not flush TP down the toilet anywhere. The plumbing isn't good and you'll easily plug the pipes if you flush much TP. Instead, you leave it in the basket and it is cleaned daily. It doesn't sound very hygienic, but the alternative is a flooded bathroom...take your pick...

Dogs... lots of homeless ones in Otavalo. This really made me think about my friend and former co-worker J.Lynn who is not a fan of animals. Presumably homeless dogs are a pretty common sight in Otavalo. I have yet to see a dangerous one but they are common and looking for food. You'll get used to them, but it is something different to see.

There were two things I observed that both reminded me of my "adopted dad" Donald. It's a somewhat long story on how Donald is my adopted dad but here's the important point. In his former lives, he was a garbageman and a beer delivery guy. Here's the connections: the garbage truck, in Otavalo, will go down the street playing loud music very similar to the ice cream man of past days in the States. My guess is there is no set route or "garbage day", so they will just play music when they're coming around. You presumably hold your garbage and when you hear the garbageman coming on around, you put your garbage out to be collected. It seems to work as there wasn't a terrible amount of garbage lying around. The other was beer delivery: the guys don't seem to have dollys or hand-trucks. The national beer, Pilsener (and one of only two beers I've seen here - very comparable to Bud or MGD) can come in bottles in plastic stackable containers. The guys would take the big stacks and keep pivoting them on corners to move them down the street. Donald, be sure to negotiate a hand-truck/dolly before taking that job here!

You'll see some pictures and I'm sure you could find more interesting things to observe yourself. That said, while I had some less fun experiences in Otavalo and learned I really need to expect that acclimation period when arriving in each new town, Otavalo is a town worth visiting. Most tourists will make it just a day trip (evidenced by the huge influx of gringos on Saturday about 10AM and gone by about 7PM, if that late) and drop their cash on their gifts and souvenirs, I could see spending a extra day in the town. There are also things to do more outside of the town, such as horseback riding and hiking in the beautiful mountains surrounding the town. It did have a more "authentic" feel, even with some American or "Western" influence (many people had traditional dress, but some also had things such as Dora the Explorer wheelie backpacks and such.) I guess I can say I've seen at least 1 of the 1000 places to see and ultimately glad I did see it.

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Photos

Welcome to Otavalo!
At the main entrance to the town, you see what is their claim to fame.

Best little whorehouse...
Okay, it's not but read the blog if you haven't already. Here is the hotel/hostal I stayed. Still pretty basic, but recently remodeled and a great value for the price I paid.

My room...
Here is Hotel Santa Fe's rooms, notice there's even TV with some English spoken stations (although the programs are outdated.

Otavalo Street scene
This was actually on Friday on Sucre Street, before the big selling day. Sucre is one of the two main streets in the city and is completely closed off on Saturdays for the market.

Lamp posts
Otavalo celebrates it art history on its lamp posts on one of its main streets, Caledron

Side street on Friday
This is actually a picture of people selling food. There are seemingly endless amounts of booths and vendors with various foods. You actually wonder how it all gets sold, there seems to be more food than the people could ever eat before going bad!

Main Square on Saturday
This was pretty early in the morning, about 7AM, before the main gringo crowds showed up for their day trip.

On the street on Saturday
I always felt a little self-conscious taking these personal pictures, but wanted to get a feel of life on the Saturday market for those selling. I actually have cropped the picture in my MacBook for a closer shot, but you get the idea.

More Saturday market
Just a scene on a side street off of Sucre Street (the main street in Otavalo and one that's closed down on Saturday for the market, plus all the side streets within one block of Sucre).

Where tires go to die...
On the U of M campus, there is a tree where students throw their old shoes. The story is probably different, but apparently this is where old tires to go die and will hopefully land in the tree versus the river below.

Moo!
I really was as close as it seems...there are no fences or gates. If the animal decided to run, you may be out of luck.