Medellin: Pretty. Racist.


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South America » Colombia » Medellin
August 8th 2008
Published: August 20th 2008
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I´ve composed myself differently on this trip.

After more than a few incidents where my Negrocity has been put on the heated front burner, I thought I was pretty well steeled against what had been anything from innocuous to blatant racism.

We´ll just say Medellin put this to a leetle bit of a test.

Medellin: Home of the Beautiful Caucasians




With the promise of great nightlife and civic beauty, I´d headed to Medellin with Rob, a musclebound Canadian who was visiting from Ireland, with high hopes of...well...seeing pretty stuff and partying a bit.

While the city wasn´t exactly Florence, it had quite a bit of charm with ample greenspace and a lively air. After the horrors of the Pablo Escobar and the Medellin Cartel (over 40,000 policmen killed), the Mayor has made great strides to turn the city around and, in fact, there have been gains in an economy that isn´t solely based on narcotics. One rather novel accomplishment is the addition of a ski-gondola like cable car system to two lines of the metro that connect the poorer outlying barrios directly to the city center. It also makes for a really easy way to see the more visceral part of the city from the air.
Spires to the SunSpires to the SunSpires to the Sun

I don´t really know what these things were...but they looked suspiciously like Obiwan´s Light Saber.
(For those who are LESS fearless/stupid/clueless than me...I´d probably woulda walked). In the gondola, I had a nice conversation with two of the barrio dwellers who happened to be taking a tour too. Interestingly, when I asked what the name of the supposedly beloved Mayor who had been accreditied with the civic improvements, neither could think of his name. Maybe beloved means don´t know who the heck you are in this part of the world...

After having the civic portion out of the way, Rob and I figured we would hit the nightlife portion. In addition, since our hostel was well located within walking distance to a plethora of clubs for the Medellin elite, I figured we were in for an epic night.

The preparty included walking around the square bouncing in an out of the random places without a cover. I did notice that there was a slight tendency for the employees to head toward Rob, but I can understand as I still apparently look Colombia. Let them go after them Gringo dollars.

It was at the main party spot for the night where I was treated like a diseased mule. Every person wanted to talk to Rob. I can understand that
Mucho TrabajoMucho TrabajoMucho Trabajo

Though in fairness, it was close to lunchtime...
as he is alot different than what they see around there. If they lack the good taste to see my superManliness, that is on them.

What I couldn´t understand is why when I tried to translate for the monolingual Rob (I am STILL the quintessential wingman!) people pushed past me, looked disgusted and continued to chatter in ways that Rob didn´t understand. I figured they could have at least USED the mule.

After about the 5th direct insult or slight, I started to catch feelings a bit...and No, not those weepy ¨No one likes me¨ feelings. More like Im´a Bash a Fucker´s HEAD IN!!! type feelings.

Yeah. Almost went there.

When I noticed myself glaring at folk inviting disaster and pushing them out of the way with gusto and abandon (In another Country. With One guy who I had met a day before) I figured maaaaaybe I ought to get gone.

And so I did. Didn´t want to hurt anyone after all ;-)

In all fairness, the next night was better. Though I had the hardest time figuring if the girls in the club were prostitutes or not, one of them told me that she (a dark skinned Negra) couldn´t even get into that club.

Maybe I should just chalk this one up to Bad Luck


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Traffic cop with an Automatic WeaponTraffic cop with an Automatic Weapon
Traffic cop with an Automatic Weapon

OK OK I´ll make sure to use the crosswalk!
Moustacheless NaeemMoustacheless Naeem
Moustacheless Naeem

Due to an overzealous Barber, I ended up shaving my moustache for the first time...ever. No me gusta.


20th August 2008

Hey
Glad you got back safely.
20th August 2008

Brought me to tear, yeah, a single one.
I laughed so hard at "Home of the Beautiful Caucasians" and your interpretation of "beloved" that a tear fell. Needless to say, it took me awhile to stop laughing, and read on to the details of the racism that you encountered. I am truly sorry that you had such "luck" the first night. Good move not "catching" an international case though;)
20th August 2008

naked lip guy
you're still a cutie. hope that the rest of the trip goes well
20th August 2008

That's too Bad
Reading this made me think about what Mos Def said, outside the States you have "World Ni**er Law". My next thought is who the hell would NOT want to talk to you. You're Naeem Damn It! They're loss. It sucks to bet treated like that and it's good you didn't go there. Unlike our Gringo friends remember if something goes down I don't think our government is coming for us! :) As usual though you rose above it and still had a good time. Just continue to have fun and stay safe.
20th August 2008

HEY BABE!!!!! I was wondering why I hadn't heard from you in a minute, but I see you are wondering around Columbia. Be safe and contact me when you get back, I will be in D.C. soon. Love you!!!!! :-)
20th August 2008

hey naa!!!!sorry to hear medellin is diff than the border of ven,col.by the way let your mustage crow my friend!!! i am writing from caracas where i leave tomorrow to amsterdam......very sad to leave ana and taganga.ill be back..safe trip. bas
20th August 2008

Bas
Actually I did notice a bit of prejudice on the coast, but it just wasn´t quite that stark. I still haven´t been stopped at a border though. (knockonwood) we´ll see how Bolivia goes... Sorry that you have to go home. I know you were enjoying taganga.
20th August 2008

Tamara
Oh I ain´t back quite yet...gimme another 3 weeks...
20th August 2008

South of the Border
Stay Strong Bra! I experienced equally frustrating racism in Latin America as well. I think it helps us to better identify with our Afro-Latino hermanos y hermanitas. These updates are awesome and keep your cool/safety as you trek unchartered waters.
1st September 2008

hi
you look great without a mustache - no preoccuparte (sp?). sorry about the ridiculous colombians. you are so cool! they missed a damned good chance to have a good conversation with a smart guy. fools. their loss.
9th November 2009

lol. Dude you just let a bitter taste in my mouth this early morning. Just landed in this socalled beautiful caucasian city a little earlier and I must say looking forward to seeing those subtle hints. It will be the ante up I need to use it against prospective clients I am visiting here. So far its been alright, than again I semi ´elite douche´ dan carlton. Will update accordingly.
30th December 2009

It's all relative
If you are in South America, you have to be prepared for racism. It's a fact of life down there and in most places, I noticed it, but it just wasn't as apparent. It was stark in Venezuela, it was harsh in Colombia too, but I also had the most fun ever in Colombia. It's all about what you choose to take offense to.

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