Cali, Colombia

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Day 1 (Wednesday) - Got into Cali early and the bus station was close to my hostel so I decided to walk. Bad decision. I walked on Calle 25 street for a few blocks then without warning found myself at the corner of Avenida 3 and Calle 34. I walked a few more blocks to catch my bearings and was still on the corner of 3 & 34. I found a police officer and asked him for directions. He pointed me across a main thoroughfare. I walked another 4 blocks and found a post, which said 3 & 34. I asked a lady coming out of her house for help and she could not point me in the right direction. I could not believe that for somewhere that should be within 10 blocks. She then asked three other women walking down the street and they could not point me in the right direction. They were all pointing different ways. I felt like I was in an Alfred Hitchcock movie. Finally, a police officer came along and pointed me in the right direction. I walked and walked and after five blocks I found myself on a different intersection. Then I found my way and within fifteen minutes I was at my hostel. I got cleaned up and went out for lunch. I walked to a mall about five blocks away that was very nice. I combed the mall and decided to eat lunch in the courtyard, which was a happening place. One of the restaurants there was a steak place. For a kick I decided to order a Filet Mignon and it wasn't too bad, definitely better than I would expect in a mall in the states. I then walked back to the hostel where I took a four hour nap. I awoke around 6 and hung out in front of the hostel with the owner and some guys (Charlie and Joe) staying there who were biking through Latin America. I grabbed a bite at a bakery down the street then went to grab a soda with Charlie and Joe and a friend they had met named Andres, while they had dinner at a local burger place. Andres was an interesting character. He is a civil engineer from Cali who has been kidnapped twice. The first time he was imprisoned for two years. The next time he was let go immediately because the kidnappers found out he wasn't rich. He said that Colombia had changed a lot in the last six years, which was spurring safety, personally and economically. Andres then had to get home to his family and we called it a night. I went to sleep around 11 after reading a bit.

Day 2 (Thursday) - I woke up at 8:30 feeling very rested for the first time in quite a while. I went to a local bakery, where I had coffee and an omelet for less than $2.50. The omelet was excellent (bacon, cheese, corn and banana). It sounds weird but I was stunned with the taste. I then walked down into town to see the city. I got lost again for a while, crossing the river that cuts through town without even realizing it. I found a plaza and tried to grab my bearings from there. I walked for a good hour before I figured out that I was on the wrong side of the river and the area I was looking for started with the very plaza I had set out from earlier. It did give me a good view of the city I wouldn't have had otherwise though. I walked through town, grabbed a little snack on the way then went back to my hostel to cool down. While I was there a storm came up, so it gave me some time to catch up on my blog, which was much needed. That night I had trouble rounding up troops from the Hostel Casa Blanca, where I was staying, so I decided to go it on my own. First, I grabbed dinner at place on Avenida 6 (main drag). It was huge, three different filtets of meat, rice and french fries with a small side salad. I am not sure if it is a bigger tribute to how much food there was or how my appetite has shrunk but I left a lot on my plate, which is uncharacteristic. I took my time as it was nice to people watch and it was quite pleasant outside after the afternoon showers. After about an hour and a half, I made my way back to the hostel. Though it was Thursday night, I was assured that things didn't happen till somewhere between 11 and midnight. At around 11, I walked the five blocks to The Blues Brothers bar. It was not very crowded at first but I had arrived before the live salsa band was set to play (every Thursday night) I sat at the bar and soaked up a little of the ambiance before one of the owners and the man in charge, Jim introduced himself. He is an interesting and very neat character. He played professional basketball in Spain, currently trades For-Ex and co-owns this bar in Cali and one in Miami. He was very graceous and gave me some drinks on the house. Further, he showed me around the club and introduced me to his friend Andres who works as a travel consultant in Colombia (should anyone be interested, I have his card and he speaks perfect english). I spent a majority of the evening watching the salsa dancing and was encouraged by two girls to ask their friend to dance from afar, using arm waiving and pointing. Salsa is a hard dance to feel out. The beat seems fast but the rhythm is slow. My first attempt at salsa dancing in Colombia was a half success. I had fun but I wasn't very good. All the bars in Cali city proper close at 2am and everyone stays till closing. Much to my chagrin, the rain had come back and was not a light drizzle. I waited it out till it got as light as I thought it was going to get and braved it at a trot. I got back successfully rather unscathed. The real issue was that the sewers were unable to handle the amount of water and was overflowing. I was therefore more concerned about stepping in sewage water than the rain. I got back safely and without sewage around 2:30.

Day 3 (Friday) - I woke up later than usual and enjoyed just lounging around for a while. I chose to further exlpore the neighborhood I was staying in, which was a nice upscale neighborhood. I walked up Avenida 6 for a good while, then worked my way back into the neighborhoods and the little shops around. After a good while, I was starting to feel some hunger pangs, so I stopped at a little outdoor cafe along a busy shopping street. It was pleasant for people watching, but it was a slight annoyance that every minute or so another solicitor would walk by asking me if I wanted to buy pirated CDs or DVDs. I had a ham and cheese sandwich accompanied by some Colombian coffee; it was quite good, filling the void in my stomach. In the afternoon, I walked back up to the mall from Wednesday and kind of roamed, stopping halfway through to indulge myself with ice cream. I made it back to the hostel in the late afternoon. It looked like it was going to rain again, so I wanted to stay close. I grabbed the book I am currently reading and sat outside underneath an overhang. I found the other hostel stayers much more active than the previous night, which was pleasant. Juan, a Spanish national, and I decided that we would grab dinner and go try and find something fun for the night. We were going to go to the mall with another guy, Oliver, for a silicone parade. Apparently plastic surgery is a popluar past time in Cali. The women are known for their beauty and that beauty is often enhanced. Fortunately, Juan and I got delayed and didn't make it. Oliver apparently averted a robbery on the way back when he started running as he saw a motorcyclist slow down and lift up his shirt to reveal a gun. Juan and I did end up going to dinner a little while later with two men from Bogota, who were in town for the weekend (Edison and Reynardo). Dinner was good then afterwards, we went to club La Rumba, where we found a table near the dance floor and watched some great salsa dancers. I was shy about dancing after the previous night but I was forced into it when Edison asked a girl at the next table to dance with me. She was a very good instructor and kept telling me to slow down, which I needed. When it was over, I thanked her and felt like I may finally be finding my rhythm. I sat and watched for a while before a guy at the same table as the girl I had previously danced with, asked if I would dance with his friend, Paula, who was a real looker. My seat suddenly felt like it was on fire because I couldn't get out of it fast enough. Paula was really sweet and we both had some laughs and enjoyed ourselves as I managed to avoid stumbling over my footsteps but increased my stumbling with my limited Spanish vocabulary. Unfortunately, the group had to leave after but I was thankful I had the opportunity I had. The rest of the night, I mostly spent admiring the good dancers. I tried dancing again but picked inopportune times as the songs were ending. We left the bar at about 2.

Day 4 (Saturday) - I woke at 6, packed and went for breakfast again getting the omemlet with banana, corn, bacon and cheese that I liked so much before. I was at the bus station at 7:40 and got a bus at 9 to Medillin. I found out later that I moved too quickly and could have caught a nicer bus at 8 but oh well.

I really enjoyed my time in Cali. I hope that I can make it back again soon after improving my Spanish.

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Photos

Calle 34 & Avenida 3
A lower upper class block that happens to be one of the 10 Calle 34 & Avenida 3 intersections.

Outdoor Mall
Very upscale mall

Main Square
The one I was looking for after I had already been there.

In the center of town
There were several large buildings around but this just seemed like the perfect street

After Dinner
I am sorry to show the remains of my dinner but this is how much I had left on the table. Those who know me, understand that leaving food on the table is not a common occurence for me, which points out the combination of my shrinking stomach and the large portions.

Behind the Salsa Band
First night salsa dancing

Second Salsa night
Left to right: Me, Reynardo, Juan and Edisson behind our vertival pitcher of beer. Every table was mounted with one. It was quite interesting though makes us look a little more deviant than in actual.

Dancing with Paula 2
The place was open air and the night remained warm, so as is the norm for me, I was sweating.