W is for Worn Out....

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Back from the "W" walk... Or as we like to call it, the "W Light".
But I suppose you want to know a bit more about that big white continent I visited a few weeks ago. Some of you are dying to know a few things so I´ll answer your questions first...
No, I did not see any polar bears, sorry, not one.
I did not kayak in a bikini but a super comfy warm dry suit and no I did not drink a cosmopolitan while talking to the whale because it is impossible to speak whale while drinking (great spotting Susie!).
Yes, it was cold, but we´ve actually come across colder weather in Patagonia (more about that later)
All the penguins were very cute and I have photos of every single one, which you will all endure, sorry, see in due course (slide show anyone?)
We departed Ushuaia on the 24th Jan and spent 2 days crossing "Drake Lake", normally the world´s roughest expanse of water but for these few days it was very kind. As a result, we were able to eat, drink and be merry until the early hours.
On the morning of the 27th Jan we crossed the Antarctic Circle. Champagne was to be had, as was the bikini. Nothing like gaining celebrity status onboard on Day 3. Later that day we kayaked around Detaille Is, the site of an old British Antarctic base, long since deserted and looking decidedly spooky. The kayaking experience was fantastic, not the least because I can now say I´ve kayaked below the Antarctic Circle!!
The next few days were spent on various excursions, mainly kayaking because the weather so was so wonderful and calm. We circumnavigated a number of islands, walked among penguins, kayaked up close and very personal with humpback and Minke whales. We set foot on the Antarctic continent and a gentoo penguin colony, who welcomed our kayaks by swimming under them and putting on a lovely show. Some decided to camp on the ice and discovered that although Antarctica is technically a desert, it can rain an awful lot.
On the way back north, we stopped at Deception Island, the point at which I have no doubt inspired the scene in "Madagascar" when the penguins hijack the ship and go to Antarctica to be home. Remember when they hopped off the boat to be greeted by horizontal sleet? Their words: "This really sux". The weather was awful and it took all our effort to just stay upright as we climbed Neptune´s Window. We were rewarded with beautiful views and reassurance from the ship´s doctor that our noses were still attached to our faces. Some chose to swim in the hot springs, but frankly the thought of even parting with my PFD was all too scary so I was nominated the official photographer. Stand by for those photos... Hmmm...
The trip back across the Drake Passage (which had resumed back to normal sea state 3 and Force 9 conditions - so glad we didn´t miss out on THAT treat) was full of mixed feelings. We´d had so many amazing experiences and now they were all behind us. That coupled with the questionable seafood salad and the ultra-strong cocktails (mixed by the ship´s doctor) resulted in a few hours of "Antarctic Naps" and for some, mild to serious cases of the "Gentoos".
There was no time to contemplate our amazing experience as it was off to Puerto Natales via Punta Arenas then out to the Torres del Paine national park to commence the "W" walk. Three days of glacial lakes, snow topped mountains, breathtaking views at each turn and every type of weather from horizontal, freezing rain to intense burning sunshine. Lucky we brought all those clothes really...
We´re in Puerto Natales tonight before a 7 hour bus ride to El Calafate for more hiking, this time to the Moreno Glacier. Thank goodness for those sneaky spa treatments at Las Torres :-)
Thanks everyone for your fantastic, lovely emails that I have only just got around to reading. All my replies, more stories and photos to follow!
Ciaou amigos xx

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