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Published: March 5th 2007
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We had booked a room at a resort just out of Puerto Montt when we were in Bariloche, looked lovely on the internet - as they often do - and we had a transfer from the bus terminal in a luxury 4x4. When we arrived it was late and dark but the room looked lovely - cabin style, with a balcony overlooking the bay. The staff didn't speak English, but the manager bought his daughter along who is studying translation at university so we got a bit of info.
It seemed very quiet, and we were the only ones having dinner when we arrived...nevermind we thought, sure we'll see other people at breakfast. Not the case, I was the only one in the whole restaurantat 9.30 am, as P stayed in bed. Felt pretty deserted...we took a walk around, and saw a family in one of the self-catering cabins, but no one else. There were no shops in the area, and the restaurant didn't open just for us, which we found quite strange. We took a walk around the bay and after nearly an hour had still not come across any shops etc. Took a road down to the water,
and sat in the sun for a while watching the crazy locals splashing about in the freezing water. On our way back we ame across a small stall on the roadside, with a lady selling a cake and a few sweet empanadas. So we grabbed the oportunity to eat!!! Good cake.....That evening we went down for dinner and all the retaurant lights were out and no-one was around. We consloed ourselves with a bottle of wine we had brought in one of the wineries in Mendoza!!!!!
The next day we went into Puerto Montt...needed to see people!!! We booked a bus out the following day, and did some shopping and mooching around. Found a cinema in the shopping centre and watched Blood Diamond...good film. Was strange when it finished as at home we normally go to the cinema on a Sunday evening, it felt like we were in Brighton for a moment....felt a little homesick but then realised that we were still travelling and didn't have to go to work the next day....made us feel a whole lot better!!!!
We left our peaceful retreat in Bahia Quillape - perfect if you are a huge moviestar who wants to
Nic and pie
little road side cake shop. Selling one cake most of which we bought.... get away from it all!!!!! or you have a car and can get about to explore the area. We really wantred to visit the Los Alerces national park, which has some of the oldest trees in the world, but the weather was not good and we'd heard from others that the park rangers don't let you in if its like that. A shame...will have to come back!
We took a bus to a town called Valdivia almost on the coast - it is the culmination of 3 rivers and very pretty. The houses were all made out of wood and corrugated iron, and colourfully painted. We stayed in a small (cabaña) cabin on the outskirts of the centre, and did some cooking - was nice to play house for a change! We took a collectivo (maxi-taxi) to the beach at Niebla and saw the Pacific Ocean for the first time...pretty cold!!!! There were lots of people paddling and a few crazy ones swimming. We took a walk up the beach and climbed over some rocks to the headland...the tide was coming in so couldn't go too far. Was a beautiful drive there and back, and would have liked to
return.
The main event in Valdivia is on the 3rd Saturday of February which coincidently we were there for; it is La Noche de la Valdivia, and is a procession of decorated river boats and a huge fireworks display. The whole town was out for the occasion which is a celebration of the founding of the city. Felt like Bonfire night, was a good vibe. The kids all had confetti which looked like whole punched paper! that they threw over everyone. We got a little cold waiting for the fireworks outside, so took sanctuary in Parrilla restaurant and had a juicy steak in the warm with a glass of red, enjoying the fireworks...much more civilised!!!
The following day we had an overnight bus to the capital - Santiago, but we were not visiting there yet; we took a bus straight away to Viña del Mar on the coast and arrived at 10am. Another nice B&B and more places to visit. They have a music festival here that lasts for a week, issupposed to resemble the Eurovision Song Contest, but is much more popular. It was the last night when we arrived on Monday, and we heard that Ricky
Sealions in the river near Valdivia
They stay by the marketplace munching on the fish scraps...smelly! Martin was playing!! Unfortunatly all tickets were sold out......! We went out with a few people from the B&B for drinks instead.
Yesterday we visited Valparaiso which is a port town but dosen't feel like it. It also has the headquarters of the Chilean Navy - lots of officers walking around in their uniforms.....
It is also famous for the funiculars which take people up the steep slopes of the city - very romantic. The streets up from the main square were quiet and really attractive - more brightly painted wooden buildings. Bought a few souvineers and had a nice seafood lunch overlooking the coast, with great views of both Valparaiso and Viña del Mar. It was good day of wandering around getting lost in the streets.
We decided it would be rude not to have a beach day while we are so close to the sea, so the following day we took a colectivo to Con-Con, a small town which is renowned for its seafood restaurants. We had a couple of empanadas (small light cornish-pasty type things) with the best, most succulent scallops inside....so good. Then we sat on the beach, the sea mist had gone, but
it was fairly breezy - hence the picture of Pierre wrapped in his towel! A nice day though...
On our last day here we were going to go out of town to a vineyard, but were told the wrong bus terminal. So instead went for lunch and our own wine tour/sample session. After much drinking we decided Syrah from the Maipo valley scored quite highly. Stumbling back to the B&B, P decided to make a unwanted addition to the Floral Clock.
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