The Stars' Tennis Balls, Chepu, Chiloe

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So, Yann and I get to the bus station this morning (weds) with bags packed. It's a glorious sunny day. We thought '# this', and went to the counter cashed in our tickets. Going to stick around and go fishing. I love this place. The is a pace of life here I have not found anywhere. The Chiloe people are in no rush and ergo nor should I be.Am sat in the garden of my hostel looking down at the sea with a coffee, cigarette and CD of a local jazz infused Chiloen band keeping me companySo yesterday went to the sunken forest in Chepu. (north west). A truely remarkable place. In 1960 an earthquake measuring a massive 9.6 on the richter scale lasting 10 minutes hit this area. In fact it so so big that the scale had to be amended because of it.Such was the impact that people around at the time still express there lives as before and after the 1960 quake.<br style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: normal; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.917969);" />Our guide for the day was Pablo. I commented that there was something very spiritual in air here that is undefinable. Turns out that I my feelings are correct. The island is steeped in myths and legends. When the Mapuche people vanquished the conquistadors from south of the bio bio river around 400yrs ago Chiloe island was then isolated. This was for over 200yrs. A ship would come once a year from Peru , if it arrived at all, with supplies for the Spanish conquistadors who stayed here. Thus a mix of European and local ideologies grew. In every church under the alter is a flat stone. It is covered in a wet blanket to stop the wizard taking it. A mythical cow with one horn, an ugly man who lives in the forest,a ghost ship etc etc. The magnificent cathedral in Plaza de Armas, Castro,is built entirely of wood. Plans were sent over from Italy but in concrete. Isolated from the rest of the world save for the Peru supply ship they used the natural materials around them to build it. It is a magnificent building. Inside the delicate wood carvings all lacquered are tribute to the craftsmanship.So, to the sunken forest in Chepu, 15kms along a bumpy dirt road from the main arterial road running the length of the island and we arrive. Amazing sight. When the earthquake hit a vast area of land dropped by over two meters. A forest with a freshwater river running though it is now effected by the tides and sea water. Trees that one stood proud above ground now are 2 meters lower than the now tidal (and saltwater) effected river. Getting into the kayak and paddle down river through tree branches and trunks that now rise up from the river like a million witches fingers reaching for the sky. All gnarled and twisted. I thought I could make out and old galleon with figurehead, mast, and rotted sides. No, just more branches and a 'trompe oriel. Not a sound can be heard except the birds and the odd splash from a fish. Saw eagrets and kingfishers and briefly a river otter. Drifting along the river no human sound at all. I started thinking how noisy humans are. Cities and towns with alarms, traffic and the hustle and bustle of life. The sound if nature is peaceful. The only strange and out of place sound will be from modern man. I think at this point I was so relaxed I farted! Birds scattered and animals ran. Yeah, we are a noisy species, make no mistake.Back on dry land speak to Fernando, the owner of the house and small wooden cabins from whom we rented the kayaks. A tall man with a 'lived in' face and grey hair in a ponytail. Though from Santiago his English accent has Dutch slant to it. The house and everything around me was built by him with nature at it's heart. Wholly self sufficient, the electric comes from a small windmill and the water is rain water.Travelling to the top of the island along a dirt road, past isolated farm buildings. On this, the windward side of the island, at the mercy of the pacific ocean and winds I wondered how did people live 200 yrs ago in isolation? No cars and contact with others for months on end. No wonder Chiloen people are so patient and resilient.Arrive at an amazing little beach at the tip of the island with pengiuns breeding on islands off shore. The sun is still shining and not a cloud in the sky. Have a beer and empanadas ( the best so far). Pablo explains that the two islands next to each other just off the beach wasjust one island before the earthquake hit. For the local fishermen who live here must have been as the gods themselves had reached from the sky to break the island in two as they shook the earth beneath their feet and spoke from the earth below. Paulo was in Santiago in 1985 when an earthquake hit the city. He described the roar like a dragon from the ground and fields acting like waves in the sea. Truly frightening.A day then to remember. The raw power of nature manifesting itself in all it beauty and savagery and a gentle reminder of how fragile we are on this planet we call Earth. 'We are merely the stars' tennis balls, struck and bandied which way please them' - John Webster - The Duchess of Malfi. Disco out.

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Photos

the power or nature
this island was in one piece until the 1960 earthquake