You miss this, you're nuts.


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Published: June 16th 2017
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Lican CaburLican CaburLican Cabur

At 5,916 meters, or over 19,000 feet, Lican Cabur has the highest eco system in the world. Lying in the crater is a lake with live crustaceons, says Phillipe, our marine biologist guide. And with snow and ice all around, it doesn't freeze, showing that even though the volcano has been inactive for many, many years, there is still a heat source warming the lake.
Geo: -22.9058, -68.1951

Again I'm without words to describe the scene before me.

The Atacama desert is the driest in the world. Arizona's is the wettest.

No comparison.

You look at this forever expanse and first glance tells you this is unlike ANYTHING you've seen before. Flat, barren, bereft for as far as you can see in every direction.

But look again. It rained torrents earlier this month. Their Bolivian winter brought deluges that crashed down the mountains and washed out roads, homes, anything it it's path.

But now there are tiny green sprouts on the plano and if you look really, really closely you'll even see wildflowers. Nothing like the Beartooth's spring display, but they're there.

This part of the Atacama gets it's weather from the east, not from the west--from Bolivia and the Atlantic ocean. Rain drenches the Amazon rainforest then slams against the wall of the Andes mountains and sometimes--not often--it slides over the top and into the basin of San Pedro de Atacama.

Anyone who has the chance to see this and doesn't do it needs to be declared legally loco.

The Atacama has an unheard of diversity. Bleak featureless expances as far as you can
LlamaLlamaLlama

During the festival Pago a la Tierra, where the people pay back the earth for it's bounties, these guys are dressed up like beautiful flowers. This one was very curious.
see, Bryce canyon type hoodoos, wetlands, vicuñas, llamas and pumas and snow capped volcanoes in every direction.

But no cactus. Not enough rain for cactus. Weird, huh? Well okay, we saw one type of cactus--a rounded mound that looked like a dead animal. But nothing tall and elegant like we see around Phoenix.

The little village of San Pedro de Atacama is growing faster than it's resources, but it's become such a popular tourist destination there's no stopping it. As such, it's developed an ugly sprawl with everything the same color--the homes, streets, stores, everything. Even the cool cobbled streets are hard to see beneath the dust that's everywhere.

But you forget all that as you venture out of town into the desert. This place is such a treasure. The next morning Phillipe, Bob & I headed out in his 4 wheel drive to the national flamingo park. I wanted flamingos and Phillipe said Tara was the place, but it was further than the crowded tourist stops closer to town. They had all had so many tourists they'd chased all the flamingos away.

Tara was guaranteed to have lots--and boy did it. Thousands.

Phillipe is an incredibly intelligent guide passionate about
Lican Cabur and Juriques (broken top) Lican Cabur and Juriques (broken top) Lican Cabur and Juriques (broken top)

Juriques is 5,700 meters and appears from this angle to dwarf it's neighbor who's actually 216 meters higher. Juriques is called the red mountain for all the iron in the soil.
the Atacama. His love of the place is infectious. With a hobby of mountain climbing --he's climbed 15 of Chile's volcanos-- and his background in marine biology, he's an encyclopedia behind the wheel.

You climb Lican Cabur from the Bolivian side, he says. It's a higher start and there's no mines.

The Chilean side is still ringed with military mines from the most recent war with Bolivia.

In the crater on top is a lake with live crustaceans. It's the only body of water around here that doesn't freeze, so there must be a heat source deep in the mountain, even though it's been inactive forever--makes it the highest ecosystem in the world, he says--5,916 meters. That's 19,409 feet.

The name comes from the old language and means mountain of the people, the spirit protecting San Pedro de Atacama. This original language has all but died out--only a few words remain.

This flat desert they call their pampa, a word we'd associated with lush cattle grazing lands of the fertile central valley, not this barren gravel pit. It's hard to find grass here, except for now there are tiny spikes of green poking up from the rare deluge earlier this month.

Above 4,000 meters
Wetlands in the desertWetlands in the desertWetlands in the desert

At over 4,000 meters (over 12,000 feet), this wetland freezes in July and August.
there's a yellowish tufty grass--that's how you know you're beginning to climb.

This whole area used to be Bolivia and north of here was Peru. But they broke the treaty the three countries had and attacked Chile.

They lost; Chile won and now Bolivia still has no sea access. They're still pissed and are trying to get it back. But Phillipe says, How do you tell the fishermen of Arica we're giving their ocean to Peru? Or tell the businesses who've invested in us we're giving their mines to Bolivia? These companies don't want to do business with Bolivia. Bolivia's complicated.

And so the conflict continues.

We stop the car alongside some llamas with colorful tufts of yarn decorating their fur. The people had just held their festival, Pago a la Tierra to celebrate the earth's bounty and had decorated them all up to make them beautiful like flowers.

It consisted of coca leaves and alcohol and giving back to the earth and then the translation got a little fuzzy.

We loved our day--the crazy drive across the caldera--impossibly flat until we'd mount a ridge and plung headfirst down a steep embankment and shoot up out on top of the other side.

Whooooo! That was
PiliPiliPili

Mt. Pili reflected in Laguna Diamenta (Diamond lagoon), a man made lake left over from the road construction.
fun.

Great day! Great friends, great scenery. One of those days you carry with you always.

A glimpse at the Atacama.

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Additional photos below
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VicuñaVicuña
Vicuña

Vicuña can run 67 miles an hour and prefer to feed out here in the open where they can outrun the puma, their mortal enemy. Just looking, you could never tell what they found to eat, it looks like so much gravel from here. Their wool is prized for it's softness. Much finer than llama wool, this stuff is warm, fluffy and silky.
Salt flatsSalt flats
Salt flats

Salt flats are actually wetlands, Phillipe tells us. These are at 15,400 feet or so.
Flamingo parkFlamingo park
Flamingo park

Reserva National Los Flamincos is huge. We stopped at three different areas looking for flamingoes. There were only a few here--too many tourists have scared them all away.
Us and indigenous girlsUs and indigenous girls
Us and indigenous girls

The flamingo reserve is on indigenous land and managed jointly. The tribe sends out representatives to these lone outposts to watch out for the birds and see that tourists don't get too close. These two girls, Josaline and Patricia, didn't like it here--said they didn't feel safe way out here alone. Later that day they were taken back into town. They said they were never going out there again!!
Solar TaraSolar Tara
Solar Tara

This is where you go to find flamingos.
Open, wide, unforgiving AtacamaOpen, wide, unforgiving Atacama
Open, wide, unforgiving Atacama

Picture a large bowl ringed by volcanos with miles and miles of volcano ash laying in the middle. That's us.
Bob and Phillip within sight of 3 separate volcanoBob and Phillip within sight of 3 separate volcano
Bob and Phillip within sight of 3 separate volcano

See them in the distance? Everywhere you look on this flat plane are snow capped volcanos.
Thousands of flamingosThousands of flamingos
Thousands of flamingos

See the tiny dots on the water. They're flamingos.
FlamingosFlamingos
Flamingos

Why are they red? The juveniles aren't--they're gray or white. The adults turn red as they eat up the carotenoids in the microalgae and microcrustaceans.
FlamingosFlamingos
Flamingos

Black tails=Andean flamingos Red tails=Chilean flamingos Red legs=James flamingos (much more rare to see)


6th March 2013

Interesting thing about the flamingos the pink color is from algae in the food they eat in only one area in South America. AdvoCare makes a supplement from the same algae, called "Amplify" which is part of our weight management system. I ca
n't remember right now what it does, but I wonder if that is the place it comes from. Did you see any industrial work being done that would indicate they were extracting pink algae?
6th March 2013

You know what...I'll ask Phillipe. He's a marine biologist, he'll know. Very interesting tho.
6th March 2013

beautiful animals! Got me what they would be eating!
6th March 2013

What an incredible photo!!!
8th March 2013

Oh there are no words how beautiful these pic's you took are. Something you well never forget. What a wonderful time you are having together seeing the world. So happy for you both! Thank you for sharing with us. Stay well & Safe! LY

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