Caleta Tortel and it just rains


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South America » Chile » Aisén » Carretera Austral
January 4th 2010
Published: January 4th 2010
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New years eve was an evening to remember in Villa o´Higgins in the hostal El Moscow. At the end of the afternoon Tully gave us a yoga class so we were well relaxed for the start of the evening. Jorge made us all a nice dinner. So with Silvia, Lucca, Jorge, Tully, Stefan, Carmen, Diana, Helmut, Serafyn, Brigitta, Jorgito and Santiago, I had a lovely dinner. In Villa o´Higgins there are 5 supermarkets so choices were not limited.

New year the morning started late so the bike ride was skipped from my schedule. We did a small trekking in the valley of the river Mayer ending at Lago Christie, where the road also ends. It was the valley the plane crossed inn the clouds. So t was nice to see what was under it.

Next morning it rained and the mountains were not visible so that low where the clouds hanging over the village. According the meteo it would not get any better so it was better to leave. At the moment I left the sun came in as a surprise and it stayed dry aal day. That seems like Chilian Patagonia. It can change quickly and in every valley or corner it can be a littel different. The road was let´s say not good. Where it was flat there were a lot of padholes in the road. The view was great. Enormous waterfalls, Snowmountains all arround, Rainforrest and all very green. There is not a lot on this road but I even saw a Hospedaje on 30k of Higgins and some empty houses to shelter. Last ferry for Puerto Yungay would leave 19.00. I did not make that. Too bad a road and still some annoying hills inbetween. The hills are not that high but with all those stones and holes it is difficult to find any rhytm in pedalling. In the evening a saw a man standing next to his hous and I asked him in my not fluent Spanish if I could camp on the green part which seemed to be dry. No he wanted me to sleep in his house. The wooden house-cabin existed of only two rooms. My place was next to the stove which was warm. We had a pleasant evening exchanging words, music, food and some drinks. After some time I discovered that Elania Reyes Verdugo was honoured as a ´Pionero´ by the municipalidad of Tortel. . He was one of the first settlers even before there was any road. He never studied any guitar but he loved playing in. I was almost bitten by a horse when it came in to say hello. The night was good and warm and we had a nice breakfast in the morning.

To the ferry it was only an hour in the rain. On the ferry I met Helmut, Diane Jorge, Serafyn and Santiago again. They were also going to Caleta Tortel. Puerto Yungay was reached after 50 minutes and the rain was pooring down. I decided to wait and search for a shelter. There was a military socail room along the road. After some time I was presented bread and thea. What more could you wish. When the rain was not pooring down anymore but still going strong I went for the next hill. That was worse road than I had. A lot of times just stones and no track. The scenery was very nice apart from the rain. I still enjoyed it. Cycling between the clouds, the snow, the waterfalls does give a ´vivace´feeling. At the junction of the road to Tortel two Swiss with their bikes were sheltering for the rain. Thet went vice versa for Tortel and they did not find it worthwhile. When I after 1.30 arrived there after a day in the rain I was glad to find a Hospedaje ´El Rio´close to the parking lot. The evening was warm again having dinner with the German-Bolivian family.


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5th January 2010

Happy New Year
Ha Hein, Gelukkig nieuwjaar! Leuk om je te kunnen volgen. T/m wanneer ben je in het buitenland? Groeten, Susanna

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