Belem (N. Brazil)

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Tues 18th Sept
Completed tight-fitted packing dispensing with non-essential but still a lot to carry. Drove down the Florida Turnpike to Miami and dropped off the rental car - just made the ´plane for Belem.
Took off on interesting flight at 7:20 pm on TAM aiways; 'trying to sleep when around 11:00 there was a lot of screaming from one of the passengers - a lady screaming hysterically in Spanish that her husband was dead - lots of others made their way towards her calling for a doctor; sure enough there was a man in the aisle opposite me white and motionless. Medics were quick to arrive, laid him across 3 seats and gave him oxygen and a drip; he was eventually revived enough to be taken off in a wheel chair when we landed at Manaus. The family sitting next to me spent the last leg of the journey unpacking at least 12 new watches, discarding the packing and distributing them about their persons!

Wed 19th Sept
Arrival in Belem at 4:20am but did not clear Customs until about 5:00. What a surprise when I went into the airport lobby to find Lucio (Susi´s friend) and Georgette (his friend) holding a card with my name printed on it - they´re vey nice; ´brought me back to their apartment - very security conscious, extra steel grills on all doors and windows (shades of S. Africa). Lucio said security is necessary in N. Brazil. 'Slept for a few hours in a hammock at their place - very tired! Over a typical light Brazilian breakfast we chatted - Lucio´s English is quite good and Georgette´s Spanish fluent enough for me to understand it - Ive no Portuguese...yet! 'Booked into mid-range hotel in centre of Belem - very basic and the electrics have got to be seen to be believed! I wonder what the budget hotels are like? Everything about Belem is loud and noisy, cars with huge loudspeakers on their roofs blaring out advertisements for different goods. 'Very crowded, bustling, dirty streets. 'Lots of handicappd just sitting on the sidewalks & many children begging. 'Poverty evident everywhere and lack of pride in the enviroment. 'Felt vulnerable walking around particularly in market area with no other signs of tourists- at least not Gringos!
Georgette acted as guide fo me for the day as Lucio had to work (professor of Admin. Studies at the university). Another friend of Georgette (Dagio) joined us - he has fluent English - and we had a lively discussion on what I saw - no concluson as it seems a vicious circle with much corruption in politics. Belem is and old historic city past its prime - needs lots of renovation. However it has many beautiful churches, ornately decorated in magnificant wooden carvings covered in gold leaf - these were carefully carved by the Indians under the supervision of the Jesuits. Lots of wonderful museums as well. Over an acaio drink (made from local Amazonian fruit) Georgette tells me that unemployment is very high in Brazil - she also one of the unemployed as she lost her job as a nurse 3 months ago, now taking further exams to give herself a better chance to get re-employed - competition very fierce. Many of the poor/unemployed end up on the streets, thus the high rate of crime. Actually got into some of the cultural museums free as I´m over 60!
Planned to meet up with all three tomorrow at 1:00. Lots of walking today, so tired. ´Warned by many not to be out after 7:00pm - too dangerous, so after a fast-food meal an early night. What a day!

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Photos

Belem ..first impressions
Busy, crowded streets .. a mixture of Thailand and S. Africa. Many stalls selling their wares.. all looking for customers.

Lucio and Georgette
My two fantastic guides while in the city.

The Museum of Art and Precious Stones
Once a prison, but after a riot 8 years ago when many were shot trying to escape it was closed down and turned into a museum. Some of the cells are kept intact with original photos of prisoners shot while clambering over the walls.