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...Welcome to the jungle, Swimming with Pink Dolphins, Lake Titicaca, and the most dangerous road in the world... Hello
So anyway, I was in La Paz last time and I hinted towards a trip up to Rurrenabaque which indeed took place. We had booked ourselves a fifty minute flight to take us up to to this small town north of La Paz. The reason was to take in a little venture around the amazon basin in a similar trip to what we did at the Pantanal, only with a Bolivian twist and one we greatly anticipated. After the flight on the worlds smallest plane had landed on the runway that lacked any tarmac, sweltered under the change in climate and then took a three hour jeep to the river. From here it was another three hours on a boat, with our group of eight already taking in some good wildlife such as crocodiles and monkeys.
When we arrived at our lodge we settled in to a place quite cosy for somewhere so in the wilderness. Before we could get settled we headed out on the river to catch the sunset over the vast jungle. Impressive, but I enjoyed
rather more the sight of a crocodile coming right up to the cabin where were. I felt brave and so strolled to within five feet of the beast to take a photo. Steve Irwin-esque undoubtedly. On the boat journey back in the pitch black, we were encouraged to shine our torches into the bushes to catch the all too familiar sight of two small red eyes attatched to a certain large amphibian. I gave up after five minutes though, my torch less effective at spotting animals and more so at attracting mosquitos.
Next day was set for Anaconda hunting. Before I go on, I´ll break the bad news now...we didn´t find a thing. Nests, eggs and skin, sure, but the actual Anaconda felt a little shy on our jungle walk. All was not lost however, our guide providing some insightful nuggets of information as to surviving in the jungle. For example, he first fashioned a water bottle holder/ back pack out of a vine. Impressive. Then he showed us a tree that when cut will produce a liquid used in dentistry. Jungle Dentistry that is. The liquid acts as an anaesthetic and when left to harden will act as
a filling. Another tree, which we found no less than ten feet away, will produce a liquid that if merely touched is potentially lethal. Don´t get these two trees mixed up.
Pressing on with our trek, we sampled the fruit of the jungle and our guide also encouraged us to try termities, which I think happen to taste like bark. On our way back we came across a fruit, the juice of which is not to be eaten due to being toxic. Apparently, the guide for the tour before ours told the keen travellers that this juice is rubbed on the face by indiginous people as an effective mosquito repellent. This is a lie. The juice is in fact an ink more powerful than a permanent marker that will be clear when applied but come to light about two hours later. Once applied, it stays for around ten days, regardless of the amount of soap you use. Our guide told us the true nature of the ink, but we still decided to give it a little blast. I had a smiley face on my arm, and then a moustache and beard. With Aaron, I truly decided to test the
limits of child like behaviour by drawing a phallus on his arm. I´m sorry. I really am. I havn´t matured yet, I hope to very soon.
After we had headed back and grabbed a spot of lunch, it was time for the activity I was most looking forward to. Swimming with pink dolphins in the amazon river. For many, this is often placed on the ´ however-many-things-to-do-before-you-die´ list, and rightly so. I´d imagine swimming in the big blue water with some large sea mammal playing next to you is quite interesting. In the Amazon I´d say its a whole different ball game. The main problem here is the water is so murky you can´t see your hands as you try to tread water. Then, with the mood set as though you are in a Jaws film, something rubs against you and then swims away. At one point, my foot touched dophin teeth as it swam below me. It really wasn´t the relaxing experience I imagined. Still, something to write home about I think. After we finished, we climbed aboard our boat again as our guide dipped a chicken wing in the water. Literally seconds, and hundreds of Piranha swoop
in to decimate the thing. What if I´d grazed my knee and these fish thought I was the chicken wing? Literally too many dangers in this part of the world.
The following day we were heading back, but not before a spot of Piranha fishing. Hats off, I managed to catch one. Everyone else got about five, but I got one this time. I´m a true fisherman, no one can take that from me!
That brings us round to a Friday. Not sure which one, just that it was a Friday. We were back in La Paz, and with only a few days to spare there was one thing high on my list of priorities.´I had hinted at it last time round, but due to the hazardous nature of this particular event I decided holding back the full details until I was safely through the otherside. I am of course talking about the North Yungas road, or, to some, the death road.
Based just outside La Paz and used as a major transport route until 2006, the North yungas road is dubbed the most dangerous road in the world. Im not sure if there is a certificate
or anything, but the numbers are shockingly high. My guide informed me that wikipedias estimate of between two and three hundred deaths a year is relatively conservative. It was also the setting for Bolivias worst ever road accident.
But enough of the numbers game. What actually coinstitutes the title of death road? Well its a gravel path often no more than three metres wide for starters. The total distance we travelled was around 64 km, in which time there is a descent of over 3 km. At times, the drop to the side is approximately 600 metres, to a ground littered with the oarts of lorrys that went over. Along the way waterfalls crash on to the road, and then of course there are other drivers to contend with. Because this used to the only route to La Paz from the Jungle to the north, a lot of timber, fruit and animals were delivered on very large trucks. The drive from the jungle is three days, and Bolivian drivers, eager to get there goods turned into currency, would do the trip without sleep. Also, because of the nature of the drive, this is the only place in South America,
aside from Guyana, where you drive on the left hand side of the road. This is a move intended to stop those heavy goods vehicles taking there turns too wide and going right over. It does however provide a bit of a shock for the tourist who is hurtling down on a bike and has become used to the right side.
In 2006, the Bolivian governent finally took decent steps to put an end to this ridiculous situation and built a by pass road,
sans massive drop to the side. A lot less traffic takes the road today, only a few cars and dozens of tourists daily who hurtle down on mountain bikes thanks to the countless agencies offering such a venture. That said, the element of danger is still shockingly prevalent. Tragically,within the week I was in La Paz ten people died on the road. An American tourist lost control and went over the edge, while a few days later a van crashed into a British man who died along with the nine Bolivians on board.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Death_Road
Surely this would be closed down anywhere in Europe. The road isnt even necessary. No chance of that happening
though. One company involved with the recent incidents was shut down to renew insurance applications. It was up and running again the following week.
And yet, with this in mind, I did the cycle. Im glad I did as well, as it turned out to be one of my favourate things on the trip. The views are stunning, and the excitement on the cycle itself was incredible. I can see why it is easy for things to go round. The speed often makes the tyes veer one way or the other, and at one particular point our guide delivered the following advice to us.
´We are coming up to the narrowest part of the road now, which also has the steepest drop. Whatever you do, no mistakes.' Thanks.
Anyway, a lot of people who come to La Paz go down the death road and the majority are without incident. I feel fairly confident on a bike come across any troublings moments, but the what had happened on the road, and the crosses you see as you go down are certainly harrowing. It should be shut down.
Night time and we were back in the wild rover
hostel. This time last week they had fancy dress and same scenario this time round, only wíth a different theme. Not sure which member of staff came up with the idea, but 'faggots and fairies' night is far and away the least politically correct night Ive ever heard of. Reluctant at first, as the drinks flowed the inhibitions lowered. We were offered dresses and donned them. Ive never been
that politically correct myself anyway...
That pretty much concludes La Paz. We were there for a couple more days without incident. Then we headed to lake Titicaca. Oh and we picked up a new recruit by the way. Only temporary mind, but he has been with us since La Paz. His name is Ben and he is from Wigan. His friends wanted to climb a mountain outside of La Paz, he wanted to get to Peru. He joined us. Simple.
After three hours, we got to Copacobana on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca. This is the largest lake in South America and I can attest to the fact that it is, indeed, large. Copacobana is a small town on the edge of the lake with excellent trout restaurants
which I sampled numerous times. As soon as we got there we took out a swan shaped pedalo just to get the feel of this aqua behemoth. Not bad, although we really would have preferred the Donald Duck pedalo. That is something to add to my list of regrets.
Following day we headed to Isla del Sol. This, according to those loveable little Incas, was the birth place of the sun. A few ruins here show the Incas devotion to that big ball of fire. We missed our boat back because we after all that Inca exploring we tried to find a restaurant showing Manchester United Vs Barcelona. No luck, and our efforts made us miss our boat back. Luckily we found a pleasant soul who was out to make a fast buck and he willingly took us back to the mainland for a bargain fee.
We still had more time for Lake Titicaca, but it was time to head to Puno on the Peruvian side and hence leave Bolivia. Not quickly enough either. I have loved my time in the poorest country in the continent. We spent the longest time here, and rightly so. The poverty is
extreme but so is the character and vibrancy of the Bolivian people, especially the indígenous, they love a good dynamite fuelled protest. The country is also beautiful with a vast array of things to do and see. But there is a time to move on, and for me that time is when rioting breaks in a province in the country and serious divisions between certain factions of the country look set to escalate into widespread violence. Definitely time to leave.
To add to the situation in Bolivia, there is currently a massive volcanic eruption taking place in Chile, and twelve people recently died in Brazil when a boat capsized in the Amazon. Worrying times if you live in a country Ive visited im afraid.
So, Puno. Bit like Copacobana, except people come here to visit the floating Islands. Trouble is, we didnt. We came and went, realising our need to get to Cusco for our pre booked Inca Trail was of prior importance. Sorry, Puno, next time perhaps.
Next time for sure, but now we had to get to Cusco, and after a rather scary drive thanks to a maniac driver, we took a look around. Not
bad. Not bad at all. This was the capital of the Inca empire, and I bet they would love the thought of it being designated by myself as the most tourist infested place I have seen on my travels. Still, I am a tourist so i wont complain. And the buildings and cobbled streets combine to make it a very attractive place. I remember in La Paz there was a place that had a menu containíng certain home comforts. The real mccoy in Cusco takes it a step further with such classics as Roast dinners with yorkshire pudding and stuffing, branston pickle, colemans mustard, worcestershire sauce and, the ultimate, HP sauce. I can see the factory from the aston expressway right now, it brings a tear to my eye...
And thats your lot. For now. Im up at six tomorrow as I begin the Inca trail up to Machu Picchu. Lets hope for the best.
Regards
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GrandFather Peter
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Copacabana
Did you compare the two Copocabanas ? - The original one in Bolivia and its posh namesake in Brazil ? The floating islands you missede were where Thor Heyerdeahl got his ideas