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Published: February 13th 2015
Day 24 - Mendoza – 16 January 2015 380 kms drive today starting high up through the Andes Mountains along winding roads. Near the top we stopped at the Chilean / Argentinian border at Los Libradores. This was in a huge warehouse like building, with the Chilean and Argentinian borders side by side. As we had left early we were able to beat all the coaches, therefore getting through immigration and customs relatively easy.
Arriving at Mendoza we booked into the Hostel Internacional Mendoza, for two nights. Shared a room with the crew.
In the evening the group walk into the city centre to Caro Pepe restaurant where all you could eat for ARS150. Choice of different BBQ meats, hot and cold salads and various deserts including jelly!
Day 25 - Mendoza – 17 January 2015 Free day. Early morning went with the rest of cook group one to shop for the next day’s bush camp. After taking the food back to the hostel took a walk back into the city to look for trekking sandals as I had left mine back in Bariloche! Also require lighter nightwear as the thermals are
Santiago to Mendoza
Climbing high through the mountainsnow to warm; they were brilliant in Patagonia.
Unable to find a camping / outdoor shop I enquired at the tourist information centre. Armed with the directions I came across the camping shop, but I had completely forgotten about the four hour siesta! It was 1:30 pm and the shop did not open again until 5 pm. I passed the time away with lunch back at Caro Pepe, where the all you can eat at lunch time was ARS120 – ARS30 cheaper than the previous evening. I find a shop open that sells nightwear so achieved one of my objectives!
I arrive back at the camping shop at 5 pm only to find that the only trekking sandals they have in stock are men’s. However the shop assistant gave me details of other camping shops, quite a few streets away. Eventually I find a shop where I successfully purchased a pair of the much needed trekking sandals.
Back to the hostel for a shower before going out for an evening meal. Not an exciting day, but I did see quite a bit of Mendoza.
Day 26 - Bush camp– 17 January 2015 Santiago to Mendoza
Climbing high through the mountains 500 kms drive east of the Andes through beautiful Argentinian countryside heading towards Rio Ceballos. The nearby Sierra de Cordoba hills are really beautiful.
We bush camp in a valley after a bumpy downhill ride. Here there is a lovely river that you can swim in. I go for a paddle and sit on a rock while until it is time to help prepare that evening’s meal.
Day 27 - 29 Rio Cebellos 19 - 21 January 2015 Up early and tents packed onto the truck we head through the mountains to the ‘Estancia Los Potreros’ Here we camp at this lovely Anglo Argentinian estancia. . The journey was in lovely hot sunshine, but had clouded over by the time we arrive. We had started putting up the tents when it started to rain, within minutes we were being hit by hailstones as big as golf balls. We quickly ran for shelter after ensuring the tents were moved to a dry place. Kevin advised us that the previous week a storm with hailstones as large as cricket balls completely took the roof off of one of the houses on the estancia. After the storm subsided we
Santiago to Mendoza
Climbing high through the mountains were then able to finish putting up the tents.
The first evening we meet our host Kevin an Argentinian who had lived sometime in England; he introduce us to Charles one of his English guides. Kevin checked with each of us as to our horse riding abilities; mine is complete novice! We then all met in his house to sample several Argentinian wines with different cheeses. We played a quiz where we sniff different bottles and had to guess the scent. I managed lemon, but the three Germans in our group won the champagne for the most correct answers. Tomorrow we will be introduced to our horses and go for our first ride.
The next morning we woke up to a thick damp fog, which hung heavy over the mountains. It looks as if the horse riding will be cancelled for the day. However, by 2:30 pm the fog has lifted enough for the experienced riders to go out. The session for us novices will be at 4:30 pm.
The fog comes down again so thick you cannot see the nearby trees or most of the tents. It lifts again and our horse riding is on. I
Santiago to Mendoza
High in the mo tains not far from the Chile/Argentina border feel very nervous as I walk towards the horses tendered under the trees. We are given a demonstration on how to hold the reins and shown different commands. Here they ride horses the gaucho style, holding the reins with one hand and sitting back into the saddle, which is much more relaxed than in England.
My name is called out and I meet Tractor the horse I will be riding. With the help of a purposely cut tree stump I mount Tractor, Leilo the Argentinian gaucho checks the stirrups and hands me the reins. I then have to wait until the rest of the group are mounted onto the horses; Tractor moves forward a few steps, Oh my god I am going to fall off!
We start out through a gate and along a dirt path alongside fields, there are two English guides Charles and Holly, also An Irish girl Laura and Leilo looking after us novices. I start to relax and enjoy the ride. We go through a few gates and into a field up a bit of an incline and down again. A gap forms between the horses in front and Tractor; he decides to do
Santiago to Mendoza
On the way to the Chile / Argentina border a trot to catch up. Surprised I did not panic; Holly advised me to shorten the reins and pull them back. Tractor slows down again, you have to show the horse who is boss otherwise they do their own thing! We then head back to the estancia, via a polo field, mindful that the horses may want to gallop; my nerves start to return, but Tractor and the other horses behave themselves. I arrive back at the estancia with a big smile on my face having thoroughly enjoyed my first experience of horse riding.
That evening after our meal we are entertained by local musicians who then invite the group to partake. Daniel entertains us on the piano and afterwards some of us dance to the musicians’ songs. All in all a very pleasant day and I go to bed looking forward to tomorrows horse riding.
The next day after breakfast Kevin drives us to the horses where I again ride Tractor. We go up into the mountains and take in the splendid views of the beautiful country side. The air is clean with the smell of wild herbs and nature is all around us – I could
Santiago to Mendoza
On the way to the Chile / Argentina border stay here for ever! We then start the descent down. At times it is quite steep, but Tractor takes it steady down the stony mountainside; I pray he will not stumble. We arrive back the estancia; a fantastic two hours horse riding. The more experience riders are waiting for their turn and take photos of us before we dismount.
Later that afternoon another Dragoman truck arrives on route to Brazil for the Rio carnival. The tour leader is Tanja who was also my tour leader in Africa last summer – it is great to see her again. In the evening we all gather together for a fantastic BBQ of Argentinian beef from cattle reared on the estancia. This is washed down with local wine before retiring to bed.
Day 30 - Monteros– 22 January 2015 Up early to pack the tents and have breakfast before the 500 kms to the Tucuman region to our campsite. However on the way close to Tafi del Valle the truck breaks down on a hill. Julie our crew leader arrange taxies to take us to the nearest town to catch public transport to Cafayate. The taxis are years old and
Santiago to Mendoza
On the way to the Chile / Argentina border one driver use a screw driver to open the boot and we all wonder if these rattling vehicles will make up the hill and to the local bus station. We arrive somewhat safely and wait until 2:15 for the bus to Cafayate.
After some confusion we all eventually are able to board the bus for the three hour journey to Cafayate. We load our bags onto a mini bus and walk to hostel that Julie has booked us into. AS this was a last minute emergency booking we sleep ten to a dormitory.
In the evening we all go out in small groups into the town, which is very pretty, with quiet roads and locals selling their goods. We then see Nick driving the truck down the street; thankfully he has been able to get the prop shaft welded.
Back at the hostel we retire for the night. Some of us are kept awake from Ingrid’s, Krys and Daniel’s snoring. In the morning Tom’s alarm goes off early and is allowed to ring; apparently Tom got up 10 mins before it went off, how considerate of him to not to turn it off before disappearing into the
Santiago to Mendoza
Chile / Argentina border bathroom. Anna goes across the room to turn it off and ignores someone’s instruction to stamp on it!
Day 31 – 32 Cafayate to Salta 23-24 January 2015 We continue our journey stopping at Los Castillos to take photos. After a few kms we stop at El Anfiteatro, a huge cave that has brilliant echo sounding effects. We then travel onto Devils Throat another cave.
We arrive at Salta and book into a lovely hotel in the centre where we stay for two nights. Salta is a lovely colonial city with plenty of shops and lovely cafes. The plaza is overlooked by a lovely cathedral and surrounded by restaurants and cafes. It is here that I try a Llama steak for the first time; so tender and tasty.
The Museum of High Altitude Archaeology houses the three Inca children, found frozen on a bleak and freezing mountaintop. The maiden, boy, and girl of lightning are believed that 500 years ago they were part of a religious sacrifice. They froze to death as they slept, and 500 years later still looked like sleeping children, not mummies. Due to restoration only one at a time is ever
Argentina
On the way to the Anglo-Argentinian estancia on view to the public. I was fortunate enough to see the girl of lightning; some time after her burial lightning struck causing burning to her face, upper body and clothes. There were many other interesting exhibits. This museum is well worth a visit, not to be missed!
The next day I took the cable car to the top of the mountain – the views over the city are wonderful. When you get out of the cable car there are lovely gardens and walkways; also stalls selling souvenirs.
I finish off my visit to Salta with a tasty llama steak sitting outside near the cathedral in the warm evening watching the world go by.
To bed early as we have an early start tomorrow for our 550 kms journey to San Pedro de Atacama taking in another border crossing into Chile!
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